The_Natural

I picked up a Lowrance HDS5 Saturday at Cabelas. They had one in the Bargain cave that was a display unit, and I scored it for $550. I haven't had it on the water yet, but I want to know what lakes are on the 'Lake INsight' feature it has. Any tips on initial setup would be appreciated also...

If you notice, the thread is labeled cranks that dive to a maximum of three feet. As a shallow crankbait nut....I feel this is the perfect depth for a shallow crank to run. The Bagley B2 and Rapala DT Fat/Flat 3 are great examples of what I consider a target shallow crank depth. Some popular baits that are labeled 'shallow' are approaching medium diver status. You can halt the dive of an RC 1.5 with 15lb line, but with your average 10 or 12lb line you are hitting 5ft on a good cast. The Spro Little John is another 5fter. I've got all my 'active' Bandit 100's shaved to where they run only a solid 3ft. I just wish more shallow cranks remained 'shallow'.

I thought they took the thin fin off the market and just reintroduced it. I was actually going to make a thread about it. Some anglers have treasured old thin fins....

Burley- CX is coated with fluoro, but of course isn't a pure fluoro like RW mentioned. For anglers wanting some clarity and invisibility in a line can enjoy the light fraction index of fluoro with the managability of copolymer (the core). With the idea that fluoro has a light refraction index close to water....why wouldn't just the outside need to be coated? Also, CX's fluoro coating doesn't flake off like early fluoro coated lines. Take a look at Lake Fork Tackle's new Fluoro-Hybrid line....I saw it at bass pro and it lacked the clarity of CX, but carries a $17 price tag for a filler spool.

+1 (for the 9th time this month ) Hmm... What happen to P-Line CX Premium? I thought that was all you were using. I picked up some #15 to experiment with after being ripped-off with some #6...Anyhow, so far, so good. It's the most manageable (non-braid) line I have ever fished. Not pure fluoro, but maybe a better choice. 8-) CX premium is the line I recommend when anglers value a manageable line. It's the only soft and manageable line that has a coating that repels water and aids in line clarity. I want my line shiny...that means it's protected . I've always used Pline CX on my crappie rods....I can leave it on for an extended period, and it won't deteriorate like lines that are untreated. For bass line, I like Fluoro or CXX....I like coils . I will say Texas has some big fish, and lots of trees. I've read countless posts on the Texas Fishing Forum where guys literally use 15lb CX for everything. Crankbaits, worms, jigs, spinnerbaits....it has been nominated for 'best all-around' line by a lot of folks. You'll have to let us know how the 'holy' 15lb CX does. BTW...I really felt terrible after reading about your expierience with 6lb CX. I should have mentioned it is significantly thinnner than other lines in it's class....especially Yozuri hybrid. 10lb CX has the diameter of 6lb Ultra-Soft. 6lb CX is extremely thin and I wouldn't even drop shot with it.

I've quoted that same sentence many of times. While the IMX marks a significant upgrade in blank performance versus the next model down (GL3), comparing the GL2 to other rods at it's price point recently left me with an impression that is was lighter than most all of the rods at that level. The GL2 won't be a life changing experience (like the first time I fished an IMX), but it definitely competes at it's price point.

Cork has been around a long time, and it is pretty clear at this point how to take care of it. Foam on the other hand, has recently become very popular....dare I say it's the 'in' thing. Regardless, if you have an EVA handled rod or even a proprietary foam like Daiwa's 'Air Foam'....ensuring longevity is the same. Upon purchase of your rod (or after a cleaning if you've fished with it), comes the protective layer. This layer will not only protect your foam, but make it much easier to clean. Just purchase a quality leather water and stain repellent. Purchasing a leather protectant ensures no solvents or damaging propellants. If it's gentle enough for leather....it's a safe bet for foam. Here are some examples... Untreated Daiwa 'Air Foam' grip... Treated Grip. Notice the grip is visibly moisturized and protected... I like the reel magic aerosol for upkeep. After an outing, use a damp microfiber towel to gentle wipe down my entire rod, finishing with the handle (this will dirty up your towel). After the foam is clean and dried a while...mist it with silicone. The aerosol reel magic is quite a different product than the non-aerosol....the aerosol leaves a thin layer of active ingredient whereas the pump spray is 100% active ingredient and would leave your handle oily.

The Walmarts around here have Lake Fork Tackle baits....but as said, if they can't buy'em cheap....they won't carry your product.

Lead.....sex with a condom Tungsten.....sex without a condom Any questions?

I modify them all the time. A lot of my cranks have shaped lips, and I've moved the line ties on several H20 baits. If you are just 'chillin on a Sunday and aren't fishing....grab your crank box and some 220 grit sand paper. Put the sandpaper on the counter, and run your crank down it until the edge is sharp. They'll dive deeper and thump harder....

Good picks....he has most situations covered.

I got mine on Friday. Man....they looked even better in person. The pic of the bluegill pattern doesn't show the iridescent blue that is in-between the dark stripes. I kept admiring the paintjob throughout the day. It's a just a stupid-good deal; they offer everything a custom balsa crank should....without the $17-$20 price. They look as good as my WEC's. I spent 30mins putting fresh rings and Gammies on them (#4 black nickel EWG's). I'll put them through their paces tomorrow....

Daiwa Exceler.....$69

Steez Compile-X 7'1" Heavy Steez 103HA The 711 Compile-X has a pretty soft tip. It wouldn't be my first choice for cranking, but it would do ok, and it also would have the power for flipping and pitching. I love my Zillion rods, but cranking isn't going to happen with them .

Bass Pro has the Johnny Morris rods on Sale for $119. Very sensitive rods with Sic's. Hard to beat at that price....

+1 (for the 9th time this month )

As said; it has tighter tolerances than any fishing reel I have ever held. I recently bought a few for a good price and actually kept them instead of selling them. It really is an experience. I can just turn the handle in my house and marvel at it. It isn't the 5.5oz weight.....lots of light reels on the market. It's turning the handle that awakens you. Buttery smooth and tight all at the same time; a combination I haven't felt before.

I choose option C. Take your $825 in free money, and combine it with $175 of non-free money and buy the 'bird 798si. It has 2d and Si sonar....you can split the screen and have both up at the same time.

I thought it was a very good movie, better than I thought it was going to be. Definitely sad. I like movies that make me ponder how I would handle certain situations. If a movie is long, but seems normal length when you watch it...I'm in. Australia on the other hand...seemed like it should have ended 3 or 4 times.

Well...a Daiwa Zillion would cure your 'floppy tip' problems. Take your current fishing rod and feed it 9 *s....now you have a Zillion. Take your pick of length....they are all extremely fast. MH=H though...seriously.

Like soft plastics, I recommend a smaller bait if you are starting out or having trouble. A finesse spinnerbait gets a TON of bites, and will boost confidence. I have a 3/16oz Leverage that won a tournament in post-spawn a couple of years ago, and currently use the War Eagle finesse spinners as well. http://www.***.com/descpage-WEFS.html#pImage

The tube is obviously the first answer, but the second could be several baits. The Senko is a good choice, but I throw a lizard more in the spring than I do a Senko. A jig and hula grub is also up there....

The middle bait is a Mann's 10+. The top one is interesting; the shape and dotted lateral line make me think it is an older japanese bait. The bottom bait looks like a Rebel.... *edit* Oops...you already said the middle bait is a mann's 10+.

I'd take the new Citica over the old Accurist.

Mine aren't making any noise. I do clean and relube the spool-support bearings upon purchasing a reel though.