The_Natural

Yes....very high quality components. War Eagle and Nichols spinnerbaits have the highest quality blades I've seen. The War Eagle and Nichols blades have a clear lacquer on them...it's noticeable when you compare them to your other spinnerbaits and prevents the blades from getting tarnished. War Eagle and Nichols are similar in design; a cone-shaped, 'weed-free' design that isn't painted like a fishhead...just painted a solid color. The Nichols are more 'compact' and have a shorter arm on both sides of the bend. Both companies seem to share many anglers thoughts that spinnerbaits are reactionary baits, and a detailed head isn't necessary. I own and fish a lot of War Eagles, but if I could only throw one spinnerbait....it would be a Nichols. It is the spinnerbait KVD chose before he was sponsored by Strike King. They have won a lot of tournaments.

Of course. The 5/8oz Aggravator is an excellent prespawn spinnerbait. There really isn't anything like it....super short arm....twin wire weedguard. I bought 10 of them about 4 years ago because I didn't hear anyone mention them and I was afraid the company would go out of business. I only own and throw the 'Aggravator' out of the Zorro lineup, but this bait is gold slow-rolled deep in prespawn. Here is a pic of one of my Aggravators....

It all depends on your water temp . I don't know what the surface temp is in NC, but if I knew....I could give you a good idea as to what they might be biting.

I strolled in Academy to find some new colors of H20 baits. If you aren't familiar....they are almost identical to the Lucky Craft RC 1.5's (etched scales...sharp asss hooks and everything). I stock RC's and H20's...sometimes I want that deep knocker rattle (H20), and sometimes I want a silent bait. Anyway....here are the new colors. The top bait is called 'sexy melon'. The top is actually a dark melon with some red flakes mixed in....and of course a chartreuse lateral line. Also...they finally made a ghost minnow (one of my favorite colors). Best of all.....they duplicated one of the best colors of all time, Bill Norman's 'Slick'. I say Bill Norman because they have been making that color for a long time. Slick is the second from the top. I somehow found it easy to spend $120 on $3.70 baits. H20 also knocked off the Spro Aruku Shad. It is apparent they have identical shapes and rattle chambers. I'll get some pics up tomorrow. If you don't live close to an Academy....I'm sorry :-X

Just focus on line capacity with your new reel to determine it's ability to cast weightless baits. You need a reel that holds around 110yds of 12lb or less to be effective. Line is heavy, and weightless baits don't have the torque necessary to get a spool with 140yds of line moving

I use and recommend Trilene 100% fluorocarbon....sensitive rods don't need braid unless you are cutting grass. However, I can't say using fluorocarbon on a very sensitive rod will 'take it to the next level'. I notice a difference, but it isn't dramatic. On another note, the recoil guides on your LE do make quite a bit of difference in sensitivity...it's noticeable on the BCR's (in addition to the faster actions).

Not to make it more difficult...but it depends on the plastic . I don't have a 'weightless plastics rod'. I fish weightless Senkos and lizards (spring) on pitching gear....your average MH or H rod with 12-15lb fluorocarbon. It's the smaller baits such as Zoom Trickworms, Smallie Beavers, and such that I downsize for. Small duty plastics generally get my SJR723 paired with a 2000 size daiwa Advantage spinning reel. I've owned baitcasters that will cast weightless finesse worms, but you can't beat spinning gear for that task. So, my worthless advice is that you need 2 rods....or if you own a spinning rod and a T-rig rod....you are set. I find that casting weightless lizards (or any lightweight plastic) with a baitcasting reel depends more on the reel than the rod.

As said, you can't get a definitive answer. However, as I often do....look at the best bass fishermen in the world. Braid is the strongest, thinnest, and most sensitive line in the world. If the pros thought bass didn't care about it's visibility....they would use it for more than just grass. 9/10 Elite pros use heavy fluorocarbon for pitching and flipping....hell, every 'tip-up' bait for that matter.

The Trilene 100% is available in a 'green tint' color. I honestly don't have a problem seeing my clear Trilene, but the green may help you.

I don't think added sensitivity is just for 'pleasure'. I was having trouble years ago feeling bites on my carolina rig. I remembered this when I dove back in to fishing in '04, and splurged on an 844 IMX. It made a big difference, and I could discern bites versus bottom debris. However, most fishermen are bank beaters...fishing texas rigs and such. It's not hard to distinguish bites pitching to structure or cover on the bank. It's the C-rigging and Drop-shotting in deep water that it makes a difference.

I owned 5 of them back in the early '90s. It was the first rod (or reel for that matter) titled tour edition...there weren't any tour edition reels at that point. No 'PT' in the title either. The rods were lighter and more sensitive than the All-Star IM6 or Original Falcon that were popular at the time. The rod stated 'HSX54 blank by Lamiglas' underneath the power and weight ratings. It apparently uses the same blank today....all these years later. I'd like to test one up against a compre and premier; the PT just doesn't get mentioned because it has the cursed 'quantum' name on it. The original Tour Edition rod was $99 back in 1990.

Cabelas XML Ti Reg. $189.99 Sale $109.99 The XML's are good rods anyway, but this is the top model with REC guides. Great deal.... http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?id=0030280119418a&navCount=2&podId=0030280&parentId=cat20372&masterpathid=&navAction=jump&cmCat=MainCatcat20166-cat20372_TGP&catalogCode=9IS&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat20372&hasJS=true

No need to measure a GLX...the Carrot is lighter. The Carrot and GLX blank probably are close in weight, but the GLX adds a full trigger handle and fuji reel seat....not to mention SiC rings which weigh more than the thin stainless rings on the carrot. My only gripe about my carrots were the guides. They are the same SS guides that are on the Berkley lightnting rods. The Carrot went all out to weigh as little as possible, but the Berkley SS guides are the main gripe of most. I see their conundrum though....Alconites would weigh quite a bit more...and Sic's are too expensive. The Berkley SS guides are extremely light and very inexpensive.

Mattm might be able to answer this...he has a few mossybacks. I'm not sure if he has an IMX though.

Yes....for tip-up baits. I don't think you need a $300 rod, but at least a middle-market rod. For cranks...it doesn't matter. All I know is my first 'high-end' rod, a Loomis 844 IMX, improved my C-rig fishing 300%.

I've owned several Citica E's, and I think they are the best at their respective price point. However; for learning how to cast with a casting reel for the first time....externally adjustable brakes helped me out quite a bit. I would recommend a low-range daiwa. Don't forget that you cast control knob is equally important

Hey....I'm a modest guy, but my farts owned you! (strictly going by decibels...too windy to sample aroma)

Now that's funny!!! ;D ;D ;D Nice fish and a great looking spot. Fortunately or unfortunately...the Majority of RayBob is timber/standing trees. Coming from Oklahoma...it looks like there should be a fish on every one . You just have to try and distinguish which trees are holding fish.

I'm just busting your balls....it wasn't like it was a trophy fish . It was just a little shaky. I knew somebody would notice we both ended up wearing Tackle Warehouse T-shirts. Matt called me the night before and asked what I was wearing tomorrow, and I told him 'probably just a tackle warehouse T'. Low and behold he showed up with his Tackle Warehouse T-shirt on....he said wearing matching shirts is 'fun'

You can start throwing one today if you don't want to catch anything . I'm kidding....I just said that because I threw one this morning for a good 45min in textbook buzzbait conditions (textbook topwater conditions actually), and couldn't get even a boil. I'll stick with a buzzbait longer than a popper due to the size of fish they product. It's the 'jig' of topwaters.

Lake: Ray Roberts Weather: cold front following heavy rainfall...60's and mostly cloudy Water: Stained to Murky; 63 degree surface temp (average) Pattern: Pitching Baits- targeting the larger diameter trees in 5-6ft of water. Crankbaits- mouths of creeks that had chunk rock, wind, and Sandbass exploiting the shad spawn. . Number of bites: 11 Number of fish: 8 Best 5: around 18-19lbs [5.3lbs, 4+lbs, and 3lbs (x3)]Number of breakoffs: 2 Minumum the fish Matt broke off weighed 5lbs<(it was a big girl ) Matt's frustration level after the loss: 7/10 Matt's frustration level after breaking off a second fish: 9/10 Number of times I've seen CXX break in 5 years: 2 (never seen a bad spool like that...Matt could break it with his hands) Number of rods broken: 2 (Matt broke a Mossyback, and I broke a Zillion) Number of Times I farted: 23 (est.) Matt's skill at taking pictures: 2/10 (about the same as my trailer backing competency to be fair ) Matt's photo skills don't allow me to show you the big fish of the day...it turned out so good I can't post it .

Looks too much like an energy for me. I will say that titanium deposition finish that is on my new quantum PT's is indestructable (even though I painted over it ;D)

Nicely constructed...good components...although heavy compared to other higher end rods. Weight is my one gripe I suppose....

I generally carry five as well; 4 casting and one spinning, although I will carry up to 8 if I'm a non-boater and have no idea what kind of water we will be fishing.