airborne_angler

I Have 6 of the series 6 Strike king cranks in Sexy Shad that im dying to try out.

My cranking setup for now is a 6'6" Med-Hvy Rod with a 5:1 ratio Bass Pro Xps round baitcaster with 10# mono line. As stated,im just getting started on the cranking scene,ill upgrade my equipment once I feel comfortable that I can use cranks with success. I really cant "kneel and reel" as Im fishing a 10ft Jon boat.

The Timber Tiger is made by Wordens The Deep Secret(as Shown) "was" made by Luhr-Jensen(Now a discontinued bait) Did Luhr Jensen sell the rights of the Deep Secret to Wordens? I know Luhr Jensen still makes the Hot Lips Express which is also a deep diver

Ive read that depending on the type of lip the bait has,it can actually "roll" when it contacts the bottom and not dredge like its supposed to.

When you use a laser pointer with your dogs and cats what you see is in the air,the laser defracts differently underwater,so I wonder how that plays into the equation? Even if you shine the laser at an aquarium ,the light is getting bent/distorted by the glass in someway. Who really knows what the fish sees anyway?

Was watching the Fish Warrior last night and the host on the show was catching Nile Perch. To me at first glance they look like HUGE largemouth Bass. Wonder if theres any long distance relation between this fish and a LMB. Take a look at the pics for your self: http://www.google.com/images?q=nile+perch&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=bhBoTJ7QOo-8sQOyqt3UDQ&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CDAQsAQwAA&biw=1034&bih=650 Thoughts??

I have acquired a Map of the lake I fish. The lake was built back in the 60's and theres no doubt that this map is from around that time. I know that over the past 40+ years that the shoreline may have changed a little bit ,but the lake remains as it was back then(for the most part) On the map I have found a very obvious point. I was wondering how to approach fishing this . My thoughts are that you start off at the bank and slowly go out towards deeper water in the direction of the point. On the graph youll see the slope of the point as you get into deeper and deeper water. Eventually the point has to end and make an absolute transition into the bottom of the lake. Should I drop a marker buoy where I see the point end and the bottom of the lake start,and then fish the area between the marker buoy and the bank? Is that how I could get a definite idea of where the point actually is?

Luhr Jensen Deep Secret Crankbait. Its maybe a 3/8 oz bait. Theory is that its not always necessary to throw huge baits when going deep. This one is supposed to go way deep,but wont wear you out when cranking all day. It just came in the mail as I purchased it on Ebay Anyone thrown one? If so,how did you like it?

Which do you all prefer and why. Do you prefer the type like this: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.alltackle.com/team_daiwa_luna_baitcaster.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.alltackle.com/team_daiwa_luna.htm&usg=__RAB66kpsnCqDDy-B_mno8NA4F5U=&h=363&w=433&sz=20&hl=en&start=7&sig2=lsrymiR4AWaG-RVLT1DAqw&tbnid=FAanLK0aKxQ0JM:&tbnh=106&tbnw=126&ei=c0pmTPP_KJGksQOow7z8DA&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dbaitcaster%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DX%26biw%3D1034%26bih%3D650%26tbs%3Disch:1%26prmd%3Dvsi0,1000,100&itbs=1&biw=1034&bih=650 Or the ones like this: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.alltackle.com/team_daiwa_sol_baitcaster.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.alltackle.com/team_daiwa_sol.htm&usg=__2f26INQ-yKn28WhfKv15qLbT8kE=&h=289&w=482&sz=18&hl=en&start=0&sig2=ESCKw8LpozUM7B1oG2KvCg&tbnid=OEgLnjAA7yHt9M:&tbnh=150&tbnw=216&ei=c0pmTPP_KJGksQOow7z8DA&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dbaitcaster%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DX%26biw%3D1034%26bih%3D650%26tbs%3Disch:10,100&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=326&vpy=205&dur=627&hovh=174&hovw=289&tx=197&ty=125&oei=c0pmTPP_KJGksQOow7z8DA&esq=1&page=1&ndsp=12&ved=1t:429,r:5,s:0&biw=1034&bih=650 I kinda like the round style myself.Why? just seems a little more old school

From top to bottom: Suspending Fat Free Shad Fat Free Guppy Fat Free Fry The white one is like 3/4 to 1 oz(depending on what website you go to),the one below it is 3/8 oz and the smallest one is 1/4 oz The two lower ones in the pic are the ones I have been working with. Then this Goliath(upper most one) comes in the mail. Never expected it to be that size.

So I have been throwing small crankbaits lately(Fat Free Guppy,Fat Free Fry) ,just learning the ins and outs. Decided to expand my arsenal and purchased a new in the package Fat Free Shad. Got it in the mail today and WOW this thing is GIANT compared to the other cranks. I know from a crankbait perspective it may not be all THAT big,but compared to the other cranks I mentioned above,its massive. Is it really all that massive or is it just my eyes because im used to looking at those smaller cranks?

Just picked it up on Ebay new in the package. Seller states its a 7:1 ratio reel. Is this correct? I picked it up for $15 with $8 shipping. What did this reel retail for when on the shelves? I understand this is a 2007 model...Is this correct?

So whats the story behind these? You crank em down to the Strike Zone and then stop it,it remains where it is motionless and when you start it up again thats supposed to trigger a strike? Is this right? Can someone learn me about suspending cranks?

So I took the reel apart last night and used a q-tip to apply a little WD-40 to the bearings,as its the only lube I could find at the time. I took the reel to the pond and tested it out,it worked great It still had an annoying high pitched squealing,but I figured that was the spool shaft making contact with the inside of the tension control knob. Got home,took it apart again and got some actual oil,lubed the bearing inside the palming plate and put a little inside the tension control knob. Tied on some metal washers I had laying around and gave it a few casts. No noise and just as smooth as can be. This has got to be the smoothest BC reel I have ever used.The round profile is great as well. So who actually manufactures this reel for BPS?

Well I gave the Pregnant Redeye Shad a try yesterday and it had ZERO action. Stayed up on top and just spiraled around on the surface wrecklessly. So im gonna remove the split rings and hooks and toss the rest as I now have the replacements that were sent by Chris Brown. Speaking of replacements,if you remember earlier I mentioned I got a duplicate package shipped by Fed Ex. I called Strike King on Monday to request to speak to Chris concerning this duplicate package of baits,and all I got was a voicemail box,so I left him a message and asked that he call me back. I also emailed him and havent heard back...So does this mean I keep the duplicate baits or continue trying to contacting him to do the right thing,and thats to return these extras? How long should I wait for Chris To respond before I just give up and consider them mine?

I just got my 5:1 ratio reel in working order and I think I have the crankbait bug. I was throwing one on a different reel and it just plain wore me out. Compared to that other reel this 5:1 is a dream,casts nicely(VERY S-M-O-O-T-H) and the retrieve doesnt wear me out,its like butter with this reel. Im currently throwing a Bomber/Excalibur Fat Free Guppy Bill Dance Signature edition. Ive also thrown a Fat Free Fingerling and have caught about 7 fish between these 2 baits,nothing small but the strikes are just awesome. Cranking along,humming a tune in my head and then the world just STOPS for a split second when that fish,even a dink, slams that bait... What a rush!!! So now that ive caught the "bug" im wanting to expand my arsenal of entry level,reasonably priced crankbaits. What are everyone favorite crankbaits within a reasonable price. Im not talking LuckyCraft price range either,im talking about the $2-$6 range.Ive seen the "Blaze" brand crankbaits,anyone use them with success,or is this a brand to stay away from? Anything else I should know as I venture deeper into the world of throwing crankbaits? Im all ears for tips and pointers.

We all love that topwater explosion,whether were throwing a Popper,Buzzbait,Spook,or Jitterbug.However alot of us(myself included) are too quick on the hookset. Ive been told that you need to discipline yourself to feel the weight of the fish AND THEN SET THE HOOK. Wanna practice that and get good at it? Throw a topwater in low light/no light conditions. Youll have no choice but to wait to feel the fish prior to the hookset. I was doing this last night,I could barely see. I was throwing an Ultralite Hula Popper . Id hear the splash and commotion of the strike,but wouldnt feel anything. There were times when I waited,and the rod was almost ripped out of my hand. Practice your topwater hooksets at night and I believe this will help you when fishing frogs and other topwaters and such during the day.

Took it out today and WOW this thing is like butter,when it functions properly.When I could get it to cast without it schreeching and losing distance ,it was great,and the retrieve on the small crank I was using was effortless. Ive taken it apart and lubed the bearings,hopefully that will take care of the high pitched screeching noise when I cast.Gonna go to a pond tomorrow to see if I can fine tune it.

Something like this looks good as well,so many variations and configurations you can use http://www.lunkercity.com/miscgraf/oz_morph/index.html

Anyone ever think outside the box and throw baits for Bass that were mainly designed for saltwater fish. Example being the YUM Houdini Crab. http://www.lurenet.com/productdetail.aspx?id=yhc3247 Says these can be customized by taking the claws and legs off and fishing it as a shrimp. Think this would get bit if used in freshwater?

I know that trick and thats what I was attempting to do with the fish I hooked. It was taking a bit longer than I had anticipated,and the fish already had a deformed upper jaw from earlier in its life,so I just stopped messing with it,it had already had a hard enough life as it was.

I totally agree about the statement comparing a Pond to Lake. Thats part of the reason I gave up the approach of throwing stickbaits at the weedlines in the lake,because I wasnt having nearly as much luck as I did in the pond. Figured at the time,that the lake just sucked. Its not the lake that has the issue,its just gonna be harder for me to find em.

Picked up this reel used on Ebay a couple of years ago. Never used it myself as it was missing the tension control knob. I just tried another knob off a parts reel I have and it seems to fit(Wont know for sure until I spool it up and do some test casts) With this reel having a 5:1 ratio, how would this reel handle crankbaits/spinnerbaits?

I dunno,I used to be able to count on catching fish at the pond,youd see em dart out after your Senko right when it hit the water,just like a missile. I think I may have tried this technique at the lake and didnt have as much success with it so I forgot all about it.Actually on second thought I may have forgotten all about it because I am trying to be more versatile and not throw Senkos as much as I used to. I havent tried a Senko casted at the edge of the weed mats in a few years. Time to get back to what I would call my "basics"

Ive only been fishing for Bass since 2004 and got my start on a local pond with Soft Stickbaits t-rigged. There used to be lots of matted vegetation on the surface. I used to cast right at the edge or just a little bit away from it and watch the"V" Shape of a fish just dart out . I could count on getting a strike just about everytime. I now fish a lake which also has an abundant amount of matted vegetation as well. For some reason I have shyed away from targeting the edges of those matted weeds. I just remembered this technique was so good at the pond,and have potentially passing up on fish that may have been waiting in ambush the whole time. DOH!!!