cadman

Nate, I have thought about it many times. The spinnerbait head in my avatar is only one of my many 6 color powder painted schemes with a glitter coat and a clear coat. I may look into this again. I usually have my molds modified for sale. Not to say that this won't sell in my catalog. Maybe I'll take your advice. We'll see.

Nate, The link you posted is probably the easiest jig to use and to convert. It also comes in a heavier model BTW thanks for the compliment, I try to help people out and lead them on the straight and narrow. 5bass limit, If you are interested in a sample of what Nate posted PM me and we can talk. The jig I was mentioning, I should have posted a link. Here it is http://www.do-itmolds.com/prodmolds.aspx?c=196

Since I pour and sell over 40 different jigs and spinnerbaits, I was going to add something similar to this to my arsenal, until I thought about it and decided that there wasn't a big demand for them. So maybe I'm wrong. I know $4 seems like a lot of money for this in reality it's really not that expensive after you consider a mold $40, then you will have to modify the mold about 3-4 hours to get it correct, ball bearing swivel about .75 cents, good hook .25 cents, quality blade about .25 cents. Then you have to pour them and paint them and misc. hardware. None the less, you can make this at home. Buy a Do-It Ultra-Minnow Jig Mold, depending on the size you want. Modify the hook eye and shank to fit the hook you want on all the cavities then cut a slot on the mold at the belly. This is it. There is more time in making it then trying to explain it. If you want more Help on this, PM me with your e-mail and I would be happy to help you out on my thoughts and ideas.

RFIGUY, I tie on my skirts with thread. FYI I still put collars on the skirts so all the strands stay together, and then I slide the skirt and the collar over a base of thread and then start the wraps. PM me your e-mail and I will send you out my instructions.

Try Zeiner's Bass Shops on line. They have the best prices I've seen anywhere.

KB, This is what you can try, it's not 100% full proof . Even the hooks from the factory don't last long. Just some general info the hooks from the factory are plated red, they are not anodized. Anodizing is only a process that can be done on Aluminum nothing else. So you have highly polished bright nickle plated hooks and this is what you can do: #1. Take your hooks and dip them in Spike It's red blade dip. If you do this process quickly you will get no runs and no drips. The hook points will remain sharp. Now put them in a toaster oven and bake on 350 degrees for 20 minutes. This is the best you will ever get from a homebrew idea. When your on the lake make sure you have a (permanent, indelible) red magic marker, to touch up the nicks and scratches. Factory finish is always the best but this does work really well if you must have red hooks. I would not recommend selling them to anyone as this process only lasts maybe a day. I've done this many times and even sold them to my customers with them knowing that this is a quick fix, nothing else. It is kind of hokey but it does work.

Starflash is readily available. Starflash is a lot stiffer than Hydrosilk. They really don't compare. I use Hydrosilk for my jigs and Starflash for my spinnerbaits. The Hydrosilk makes the jig flow and move unbelievable in the water. I stlil have some left but not a lot. I like Starflash for spinnerbaits because it is stiffer and has more spring back to it. The closest I've come to Hydrosilk is Round Rubber skirt material from Jann's. I like the both of these for my own personal use because round skirt material moves much better in the water (IMO) than flat silicone. The only drawback is there are not a lot of colors in Starflash or round rubber.

It is not available anymore. I have checked with Janns many times and they can not get it. If you do find it anywhere please PM me as I have been looking for quite awhile now.

I have a beginners list of some of the things you would need along with some hand tying instructions. Too much to post here. If you want the info PM me your e-mail and I'll send it to you.

Definitely good color choices. Now go catch some fish

Welcome aboard. This is the place to be

A couple of things that will solve your problem. #1 When you pour your jig, let the lead cool in the mold before you take it out for a few more seconds. #2 Take the jig out of the mold by the sprue and not by the hook. #3 When you powder paint your jig, and bake it, it will tighten everything up. #4 Finally you can put a little kink in your hook.

Yes this is do-able, however I got to the point now that I have a guy that charges to do my molds on a CNC milling machine. You can't beat the quality. A dremel works fine for really small grooves, but it's no CNC machine that makes clean cuts. If you're interested in his name PM me and I will ask him if he is interested. One other note, if you screw up your mold well then you have what you have. This guys work is very clean and neat.

I can't see why not, guys add tin to lead all the time. I can't give you a definite answer on that though. Sorry about that.

This comment goes out to River Rat316. Ah ha, so someone is paying attention and someone must be following my other information. You will not be sorry, I have been doing a lot of personal testing with this stuff and you can't beat it. I, like you, can not stand having black soot all over my hands, all over my molds and jigs, and then when you touch something it's all over that as well, and don't forget when you oil your mold hinge and mix that with the soot well you get the picture. I too was hesitant at using this. I can kick myself in the butt for not trying it sooner. Let me know how you like it. You can PM me if you like. For all others, this is regarding a mold release spray called "Drop Out" by Frankford Arsenal. It is used to coat lead mold halves to make the jigs come out easier. To me this is by far the best thing to use for lead molds.

See new thread titled "Mold Release Spray", I don't want to hijack this.

I did some research on this late last night and you're right Cadman. Basically what I came up with was that the bismuth/tin alloy was about approx. $16/lbs and if you try and make 3/8 oz jigs (probably 1/4 oz actual), your yield will be about 42 jigs in an ideal world making your cost a little better than $2.60/jig. Now you have to add the cost for the hook, skirt, trailer, paint and Kryptonite for line so you won't break off...LOL I don't even know if this alloy will cast in the mold the same way. Your right about the ban of lead topic as a new thread. I can see sinkers being ban, but this is getting a little over the top. Thanks for your input. I totally agree with you about the lead ban. Bismuth and tin will pour nicely and may solve the led ban issue. However I have about 100 molds, and since I sell jigs, I am wondering how this will affect me cost wise. This will have a big impact on the industry and many little guys like me. Time will tell. Thank God I only rely on my lead making as a hobby and not a job.

I believe tin and bismuth is an option. The only problem is tin is very light in weight comparison to lead. Also both of these are more costly than lead. So in the long run you will be paying more anyway. This whole thing with the lead ban is so ridiculous, but that is a topic for another thread. JMO

I will agree with "the crab". I only pour lead jigs also. I do however sell them, and there is not lot of money to be made. This is a hobby to me and a passion to create things from scratch. I have been doing this for 8 years, and most of the money you make you put back in for supplies and new things you want to try. I have about 100 molds @ $40 each, 3 bottom pour pots (3) hot pots, and thousands of hooks. Naturally this is a long term commitment for me. But if I were to just want a 100 jigs or so a year I would buy them. Much cheaper in the long run without the cost for supplies plus the hours upon hours of labor and to make sure you get it right. JMO

The mold pours very well. I've poured over 500 of these and no problems as far as good clean pours. The only thing I can say negative about it is the 1/4 oz size. To me it is a little top heavy, and has a tendency to fall over, but that is my opinion.

I powder paint every jig I personally use and sell. There is just no better durable paint for jigs in my opinion

Brush guards later. I don't believe you can get a good paint job with the brush guards in place. JMO

I've done it in my boat at the dock or at home and it is not messy at all. Now if you are trying to do this on a boat in 4 foot waves then yes it can be messy.

Loc-Tite gel super glue and a whip finish

Tom, thanks for the compliment. Powder paint really works well. If you are going to us all solid colors, than all I do is lightly sand the finished side with some 400 grit sandpaper, then clean with alcohol and start applying your powder paint. If you buy hammered blades and you want to have that show through, wipe your blades with alcohol and apply translucent colored powder paints on the face of the blade. it takes some practice but it all comes out beautiful. Finally to get good paint depth and protection, clearcoat with Devcon 2 Ton or Envirotex light. That's it and good Luck