cadman

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I just realized on the above mold, you will have to remove some material on the mold around the hook points, otherwise the mold won't close tight.

Clayton, Below is a pic of a Gami 3/0 604 hook in all the cavities. It looks like it will fit if you take out the center hook eye pin in all the cavities.

You have a PM

22 or 24 ga. copper wire.

Out of curiosity, why do you have small gaps in your plastic? Your PET-G should fuse just like PLA. If you want to go out on a limb, you can slowly fuse the filament with acetone. Put acetone in a jar, put your lure on a rack in the jar above the acetone, the fumes from the acetone should fuse/melt the filament tighter. Just be careful, as you have to watch this so you don't melt all the PET-G into a big mess.

I believe if you brush your lure with super glue and let it dry thoroughly, it will seal your PET-G. It also works on PLA. Many guys that make balsa crankbaits use super glue to harden the balsa and seal it. Once dry, you can lightly sand it, then white primer, paint and clearcoat. That is what I would do.

You can also use screwloks if you have room.

Lots of guys that pour a lot have switched from Mustad to Eagle Claw. EC finally got on the ball, and I'm sure they can see it in their sales. Also Eagle Claw is made in the USA.

I think yeggi has a senko 3 cavity mold file if that is what you are looking for.

Those have been around for awhile with varying versions. I see you have a different take on yours. Looks good

I wouldn't use collars. They are a waste of money, and if you have a hot color that is working and the skirt keeps slipping down well, so much for a rubber collar.

I make my own jigs and buy all other crankbaits and plastics

ABU MGX and MGXtreme for baitcaster. Shimano Stradic for spinning reels.

I got around 150 + molds. If anyone is looking to sell some lead pouring molds send me a PM. I'm always looking for more and ones I don't have.

I might have some, how many do you need and what size. If I remember, these are bronze hooks.

Lure Parts On line, Barlows

I use 20 or 22 ga wire, with two wraps. I don't have a problem cutting weedguard strands, I have a bigger problem breaking the copper wire if I cinch it down too tight.

Disregard, I thought you said gold blades

You must not be a Sox fan. That's OK everyone in my family is a Cubs fan.

Well I'm going to give you the short version. Figure about 40 hours of graphic work before you get to put it on the body. #1 Find the team(s) you like and get several different logos. Most teams have dozens of images of their name, colors, emblems and so on. #2 You will need some clear decal transfer paper. This is the stuff that they used back in the day to put decals on plastic model cars, planes, tanks etc. #4 You will need to scale your logos to fit the body you want. Do the scaling on white paper,in black ink. Cut it out and see if you like it. If it looks good to you save the file and make multiple images, as you will definitely damage some. You will have to scale different sizes to fit different locations. #5 Once you have all the images scaled, print a color sample on white paper and cut them out to see if the colors are correct. If they are correct, then you can now print them on the decal paper. #6 Once printed on decal paper let dry. Do not touch images with your hands. Once dry, you must spray the inked images with a clear sealer. The sealer is for decal paper. The sealer seals all the ink to make sure it doesn't bleed. You may have to seal twice letting it dry well between coats. #7 Once dry, you can now cut out your image as close to the profile as possible. This is very tedious, as these images are usually small. The closer you cut out to the image, the less border you will see. #8 now get your baits and some warm water. #9 Dab a little water on your bait and leave it there. Put your decal in the warm water, wait for about 30 seconds, take it out and see if the decal will slide off the paper. If it does, slide it off on the bait body. If it does not put it back in the water for an additional 15 seconds. #10 Once it slides off onto the body, carefully position it with wet fingers. Once you have it where you want it, lightly dab the decal with a very damp lint free rag or kleenex. Let dry overnight #11 You will only be able to do one side at a time, as it will need to dry so you can turn it over. #12 Once done, clearcoat with e-tex. There are more trials and tribulations to making these, but you will learn from your mistakes...Good Luck.... ************Just a Note: Anyone that does not have permission or owns the logo(s), cannot sell these. These are the property of the team it belongs to. You can make them for yourself, or give them as a gift, but you cannot gain any monetary value from these*****************

Chris, That is what I do when I make my skirts. I put them all together with a rubber collar, push them on the jig, tie wrap the skirt in front of the collar, and then I roll down the band so I can use it again. This works best for me because it keeps everything in place and I can adjust skirt colors if I want them on the top or bottom before I wire tie.

Nice fish. I used to fish Island Lake when I was a kid back in the 70's. What did you catch them on?Did you launch your boat?

I have 7 Rvo MGX reels Gen 1. I live in IL, north of Chicago ,in Mundelein. I fish from April till November about 2 times per week. I only fish my Revo MGX's and Revo MGXtremes. Not one issue. I love my reels and maintain them myself. I am always on the look out for more. I've tried other reels mainly Daiwa, and was not impressed. The MGX's are very light and compact. They fit my hands really well, and I can cast a 1/8 jig with a trailer in the wind with no problem. What seems to be the problem with your reels?

If you don't want to make them yourself, you can have them made. However, you might have to buy 10K, but they really aren't that expensive. If you PM me, I will give you some names.