rubba bubba

There is no easier knot to tie than the Palomar. Your learning effort should be approximately 3 minutes. Do a You-tube search on drop shot and you'll see a bunch of vids showing them using the Palomar to set it up.

The rod or the reel?

In before the lock!

Get an Entertainment book, they are in there.

Do you think that .13 diameter line has much memory?

Smokin' hot deal! For others considering Dick's, dig up a $10 off $25, $15 off of $75, etc... coupons that are readily available (i.e. in an Entertainment coupon book).

Stick with mono; look up the diameters for 3-4 different lines in the same pound rating and the average will be pretty obvious. The outliers will, er, stand out....

Get proficient in both; use the side you end up preferring and switch it up for a while if you ever become fatigued.

Have the S and STX and love both. The SX has the same mag only brake as the STX, however some have problems casting the SX but not the STX. I have never used the SX so I can't give my own input. Here's a recent thread discussing the SX: http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1260854566

#1 - low end spinning combo but with a rod that is fast, not noodly. Too many low end combos have noodle-rods. #2 - go high end rod, high end baitcaster. He will undoubtedly fail with it and you can take it back from him... A proven method to slip things past the spouse.

I also liked Spiderwire fusion and when it was no longer sold I switched to Fireline Crystal. I like it in 14lbs or less; 8 for spinning. It's much like the old fusion. Anything bigger and the line diameter starts getting noticeably larger than braid for the same weight (i.e. the 20lbs fusion is big). Then I switch to Suffix; it's much softer than Powerpro after it's been broken in.

With the uni-to-uni, you have to retie over time as it weakens; I have yet to have an Alberto fail on me. The size is pretty similar (or I can't tell which is smaller) but the Alberto is noticeably stronger.

It would seem there is a unifying force that is resulting in the BR members coming together whereas they would normally be apart: the Shimano Posse ;D

Well unless you are making your livelihood with fishing (your definition, not mine), then it sounds like there's a 3rd category in between that you would fall into. Let's call it the SSWW - Super Studly Weekend Warrior.

Gives new clarity the next time someone says "rod X's action is as stiff as a broomstick"....

Yes, but are you fishing every day sunup to sunset? Since your livelihood is as a carpenter/mechanic, not a basspro, the answer would be no, I presume. So this puts you in your own described "weekend guy" category, which means you'll get a lifetime out of use for most reels made today. Very few on this board would fall into your carpenter category as very few on here fish for a living. There are some, for sure, just not many compared to the majority of members.

Now that I'm home I can actually see the pics - nice work EJ. I like the winding checks on the various cork ends - that's a good look. Very nice.

RM - I wouldn't dismiss it so overtly; get some stickers and play with it. The concept is the same as the wetting solution, and the above approach is used on far more delicate surfaces than a rod blank. You'll find your issue is the same - whether you get the wetting solution on the blank or slightly soapy water. I can assure you I didn't invent this technique nor am I the first/only one to use it on rod blanks.

Flech - there is an alternate approach to working with SA decals that is used by custom auto shops when they create/apply a custom car bra - which is nothing more then hand cut and applied 3M protective film. The process is as follows: Get a small spray bottle, fill it with water and 3-4 drops of dish soap or baby shampoo.(xpel highly recommends J&J No More Tears). Spray the object (rod) and the sticky side of the 3M tape. Get both good and wet; also spray your fingers so it won't stick to you and leave nasty prints. You will also need a stiff plastic sqeegee. You could use a plastic putty knife or something similar. It's helpful to have a good edge on part of it as you may need it for tight areas and working over decals. While it's wet, you can slide the film around easily. As you squeegee the water out, the film will adhere. Keep working with the squeegee in small areas. The harder you press the more it will stretch so remember it will get longer towards the ends. This is important if you are trying to avoid overlap. Be sure to let it dry for a day or so before putting the object (rod) to use. If any areas get problematic, you can use a hair dryer to soften the film and make it even more workable, which will also accelerate the drying process. Go to xpel.com as they have good installation instructions and videos to better explain the process. Just something to consider.

x2. I like how Sufix gets soft like yarn after using it. Powerpro retains that hard/plasticky feel to it the entire time. Note, I have not used Dodgeguy's favorite braid (Fireline) so my data is limited to only the above 3.

I put together a table of lines and their sizes. The first is sorted alphabetically, the second I sorted by size for 12lbs rating. If there are other lines someone would like added, let me know. What's interesting is a 12lbs mono is approximately the size of a 15-17lbs fluoro - which begs the question and point you guys have been making: is Fluoro really invisible vs. Mono, or is it because of the difference in diameter?

No harm. I indeed was questioning CXX's #'s as based on that table CXX was by far the largest diameter, and it has been brought up by others previously. That's not an attack on CXX, though (as if they are hatching some deceptive marketing ploy), just that when comparing CXX (or any line's strength) if people could speak to equivalent line diameters they should. It would seem CXX's numbers are somewhat off, but if true, I liken it more to how St. Croix's MH action rods are like most other's H action; not bad just something people need to be aware of; which is why I wanted your further opinion. Does anyone have a table that lists many of the lines, diameters and ratings? It looks like XT is pretty similar in size but it's also known for it's stoutness. A table with Yo-Zuri and others would be nice. Maybe I'll compile one.

Jackpot! Tell her you scored them for $24 and if she screams, come clean, if she doesn't respond, go and buy $18 worth of more fishing goods...

Relax Francis - I read the rest of your post (after all it was only 3 more sentences) and my question wasn't a debate request it was an opinion request. I was speaking specifically to you being blown away by the 15# after you referenced normally using 8/10/12 lbs XT. You mentioned 8# CXX fishes like 10# XT and so I wanted to know if whatever the equivalent XT would be for the 15# would still result in you being blown away or if you would think they'd be much similar. I haven't used either in that size and I'm always looking for a game-improving change. You then answered it in your subsequent posts. Good grief.

What was the line diameter of the 15# CXX and translate that to the other lines you tested - i.e. if it equals a 20lbs XT, then those are the 2 lines you should compare and determine which you like better. I would be curious if you would be as blown away because the gap should be much closer. On the Seaguar being the weakest comment - that's superfluous because it had the smallest diameter. Compare equivalent diameter Seaguar / other fluoros (diameter, not lbs ratings) and then see where it falls in terms of strength. Comparing lines by lbs rating, if they have different diameters, is comparing apples and oranges.