kLuo

I'm wondering how everyone cuts their braid. I have been using regular sharp scissors which work alright, but I have noticed that the cut ends start fraying very quickly. Would buying a pair of these help? http://www.gandermountain.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?i=410384&pdesc=Rapala_Super_Line_Scissors&str=scissors&merchID=4005 They are cheap, but would they be too big and be a hassle to cut the tag end off after it is tied onto a lure? Also, I'm using PowerPro, if that matters. Not looking to turn this thread into a debate about which braid to buy though.

I tried doing a search but really couldn't find much info on this topic. What colors work effectively for you guys? I fish a lot of water that has blueback herring in it, but the Sebile blueback herring color does not look very realistic. I have heard good things about the white lady color. So what colors work best for you? And I'm assuming size 125 is a good size?

I use a 6'6" MF rod for this application.

what season is this episode from?

The Owner ones are good for dropshotting. I use 1/0. http://www.***.com/Owner_Down_Shot_Offset_Worm_Hooks/descpage-ODSOW.html

Lets just say my best days fishing smallies on the river are thanks to this bait. What color is this?

That may be true for sensitivity, since you are mainly using braid. However, I bet the fluorocarbon would last longer since it has better abrasion resistance. Also, even though there is no way of quantifying this, it is likely that you have more bites with fluoro since the refraction index of the fluorocarbon makes it more difficult to see underwater. Some people swear that this is true, and others swear that it is not. But why argue with science when you are dealing with a sport where every little thing matters? We often see pros claiming that a certain bait "runs better out of the box" over another bait even though its supposed to be the exact same bait, so why take the risk of using a mono leader over a fluoro one? This is what I think about in the winter when I'm not fishing

This is one of the best articles I have seen about fluorocarbon line: http://basseast.com/?p=4093

I'd actually have to say that the best rod around $50 is the berkley lightning shock haha. These rods are supposedly designed for braid users, not sure if you had the lightning rod or shock before, but I have used a shock before and I would say that it's the best budget rod I've used.

alberto knot (aka modified albright). hands down.

;D

the main benefit of using a slower reel is that you won't be tired out as easily. 5:1 reel=less speed, more power.

They are sold exclusively through BPS. Not sure how long this contract exists, but it was enough to get me to place a BPS order

hahaha just did!

I was going through the same process earlier and also wish shimano made a 201e5. I played with a PQ as well as a revo winch, and the winch blew it out of the water. Ended up buying the winch. If you are throwing 1 oz deep diver cranks, make sure you do not get anything faster than 5.2:1 ratio unless you are ok with getting completely exhausted within 10 minutes.

what great new features are on the new xps stalker? I hate the new color scheme, I wish that I bought one when they were still gray.

In my experience, the only way that could happen is if one was a baitcasting rod and the other was a spinning rod.

what does it flat out suck for? No doubt I would use fluoro over braid in certain situations, but I have yet to find a set up that braid "sucks" at.

reading this article about stick jackets made me buy another brand: http://www.tackletour.com/reviewrodshieldjacket.html

This might sound like a stupid question. But I'm new into the bass fishing only been doing it for about a year now. But what are y'all talking about threaeded and spear. What are y'all talking about? threaded means moving the trailer up through the hook shank. speared means poking the hook through the body of the trailer. look at the pictures j francho posted and you will understand the difference.

I've ordered 2 rods from BPS, and both times, the cheap tube broke during shipment. The first time, my rod was broken into 3 pieces. BPS replaced it, but it was still a hassle to mail the broken one back. The second time, the tube broke but my rod was still intact. But now I'm afraid the rod is damaged and I just can't see it yet. *** ships rods in heavy duty tubes. Those are so much better than the crappy ones BPS ships them in.

thanks for all the replies, everyone. I'm going to get myself some U-40 and try it out!

No, that's a fair question. I have some cork handles because those deals were too good to not get. For example, I got a Daiwa Cielo rod for $120 from TW when they had them on sale. I got a Shimano Compre for $70 during a sale as well. That's why

Here's an interesting thought: how important is it to remove the plastic on newly bought cork rod handles? I know that if moisture gets underneath it, it can rot the cork. But some of the rods I just bought have a super tight plastic wrapping and I don't see that being a problem. Does removing the plastic significantly affect rod sensitivity? I also am not a huge fan of the texture of cork. I have some EVA foam rods but some of my rods are cork handles. I was thinking of coating my cork handles with some U-40 if I do decide to remove the plastic. Thoughts?

is that a hand-poured hag's tornado? sounds promising!