Delaware Valley Tackle

St Croix has a robust lineup of models and are high quality, but be careful with technique specific rod labels/choices. Rather than trust any manufacturers opinion alone, post here what you're looking for and gather opinions to factor in with your own experience. For best results keep an open mind and willingness to mix and match brands.

A rod will last indefinitely. A reels lifespan can be affected by a number of variables (quality, use, maintenance, conditions etc). I don't think you can set any firm timetable for replacement. Upgrading for the sake of it is completely up to you.

Whatever brand and model with the style and features you prefer won't let you down. None stand head and shoulders over the others at the price point you're looking at.

Rodgeeks makes a glass blank with a graphite or composite butt. Has a slim butt and unique feel. Customers I've built them for love'em.

Using 20# mono on a spinning reel.

There are numerous ways for water to get into a casting reel. That's why they often have a drain vent. If properly cared for nothing to worry about.

Any good Med / mod fast graphite crank bait blank around 7 foot works well. I usually throw them at targets around cover so I don't like too long but 7' gives you some rod to use to steer around junk.

If the guide train and grip are well thought out, you shouldn't have to add a lot. The advice to add to the very end outside the blank is good. Lead or better yet tungsten will give you the most weight/mass ratio. All said, I can't help but say I'm in the zero added weight camp, but custom is just that. Do it your way!

Rod spec have always been subjective and remain that way today. A rod builder or experienced tackle junky could probably look at the rod and give you their opinion on how it compares to modern offerings but at the end of the day the proof is how it performs on the water for YOU.

Visually inspect the levelwind before or after each trip. Be conscious of any change in feel or performance and act accordingly. It varies a lot with conditions so a given number of trips or time doesn't mean much. The mere fact you're asking these questions indicates you'll take good care of them. Just doing SOMETHING in the interim is key.

In general a reel should be good for a season or two between full tear-downs depending on usage but also conditions. If reels ride out on the deck or back of a PU it raises heck with them. Dust, sand and algae can gum up the works. Interim care, or lack there of, affects the need for deep cleaning too. Based the OP and subsequent phone message, he's probably ok until winter.

"Weightless " plastics are far from weightless in many circumstances and don't require anything special. At your price point any of the name brand offerings will perform and last if given even the most basic care. Pick one with the style and feature that appeals to you and go fishing.

I get $19.80 for cleaning from members here($22-10%). Turn around is an issue for everyone this time of year. Everyone is anxious. Email what you have and I'll get back to you with an ETA

I can't see braids neutral buoyancy having an adverse affect on a senkos action. I see the logic in thinking the Fluoros stiffness reduces slack making strike detection easier but I like the manageability and sensitivity of braid.

Lews typically are a touch cheaper on a per feature basis possibly accounting for the performance referenced. That factory makes a wide range of models with lots of mix and match options material and features wise. It's probably not fair to say they are "the same reel " but equally unfair to say one is really "better" than the other across the board.

Yup.

Also the larger the diameter the longer the sleeve should be.

You're on the right track but In the flex parts of the rod you need to use an over sleeve rather than insert and it must be lower modulus (fiberglass). Search the library of rod building.org for the repair article

I you sounds like you might be confusing stiff with fast where the zillion rod is concerned. It's a common mistake. Just experiment and see what works for you without getting sidetracked by labels and specs.

Those will make nice jerk bait rods I believe. Maybe traps, square bills and chatter baits.

Two of the same blank can vary in size. You need to measure or buy 2-3 sizes a Med casting rod likely has a 4 or 4.5 tip.

Reel ratio is mostly personal preference. There is a mechanical advantage to 5:1 reels for deep cranking and to a lesser extent 7:1 for jigs or top waters that throw slack into the line.

It depends on the model regardless of brand

Can't speak to the Dobyns but the lami is a sweet cranking rod.

BFS tackle is an enthusiast endeavor. There are more economical and efficient forms of tackle available for similar applications.