Delaware Valley Tackle

The amount of thumb needed to cast varies reel to reel, Rod yo rod and bait to bait and even cast to cast depending on distance to the target. All you can do is practice and develop a style that works for you.

The only true test unfortunately is the fish the rod, but in general sensitivity is a function of the weight / stiffness ratio. This is the reason high modulus graphite rods are the standard bearer. A rod that's light in hand and lighter overall than another of similar power should be the more sensitive. The Mojo isn't bad for the price, but from the Avid up is where St Croix shines.

I'm with you. By design I'm a model or two behind at least. There'd have to be a real game changer innovation for me to purchase the newest model of most anything.

A worm gear oscillation design typically feels smoother and are found in higher end models as a rule. They require no special alignment during reassembly unlike some cam designs. I don't feel like it's life or death either way, but the worm gear is a feature I look for to set a model apart from others.

The "stiffness" or resistance to bending is a function of the rod's Power (M, MH....). Where the rod initially flexes when loaded is the Action (X-Fast, fast, Mod-fast...). While there is some correlation due to anticipated application, they are two different attributes. The best explanation I've seen is here: http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/rod-actions-power.html. Couldn't have said it better myself. All the terms used as rod specs are subjective, with no industry standard. I wouldn't summarily write off another rod with similar "Specs" or description just because you don't like this one for what you're doing. A short powerful rod like that makes a good rod for accurate target casting of a spinner bait.

A solid fiberglass rod is pretty strong. I wouldn't worry about breaking that. 1" pvc slid inside next size up would probably work and it's cheap enough to experiment with. The outer piece can be strapped to a scrap of plywood and mounted to the transom with a couple big garage sale C-clamps. We did something similar with a beat up little jon boat we used duck hunting as kids. The pole anchors doubled as camo net frame.

There is difference between "Micro" guides and "Microwave Guide System". I'm sold on the Microwave setup for spinning rods, but I find it hard to see the advantage to the casting set. When it comes to "Micro" guides, I don't even use the term if I can help it. I use the smallest, lightest guide that will pass my connections and hold up to the strain. Combining light weight guides and a spiral wrap, makes a great bass rod. On a casting rod, the eye of the level-wind line guide can be looked at your first guide. There's no need to go larger in most cases. On a slow action rod with a foregrip a larger (higher) guide may be needed to keep the line from hitting your hand. Experiment, that's what makes it custom. There are a lot of variations on the Spiral wrap. I mount a reel and install the tip top at 180* and a stripper guide 20" +/- ahead of the reel and run the line through the tip. I'll put a transition guide near 90* where the line crosses the blank then static test for running guide placement.

Looks pretty good. IMO you may want to move the first guide closer to 0*. I think you'll have a line stacking issue as it is. Whenever you do a spiral wrap pull out a good amount of line and retrieve it with some weight resistance to check the line lay.

The DS822 has some back bone but casts light baits well enough also. For vertical jigging and target casting light baits the DS822 is a good pick. If you want long casts to fish shallow clear water the SJ 842 may work better. Rainshadow and St Croix equivalents are also nice blanks, but don't fall into the more expensive must be better trap. It may or may not be the case in any given circumstance.

My preference and is a fast action for general pitching and flipping and a mod-fast for punching mats. This said, the point above about subjective ratings is a valid one.

Deep cranking, slow rolling big Colorado blade spinners and other large high resistance lures are where the low ipt reels offer a mechanical advantage.

The reel is in need of a deep cleaning. Bearing flush will serve in the interim but there is no replacement for a deep clean.

X2 I was thinking the same thing as I read the OP

The "right" way to fix bad wraps is to rewrap them. If the aesthetics are not critical, you can try warming the epoxy and peeling off the rest with a thumbnail and refinish. I've gotten away with this a few times but it depends on the original finish and why it's failing.

It depends on conditions. When I fish a worm on a jig head it's a light head and a small worm fished on light line in clear water and light cover. I throw T-rigs in grass and wood cover and are typically 1/4oz> with a beaver or creature or bigger curl tail worm 6">.

The primary spots for DIY interim maintenance on a spinning reel are to oil the spool shaft, light oil on the line roller guide, heavy oil on the crank bearings/bushings under the handle and opposite cap, clean residue off the spool lip. I do not recommend opening a spinning reel for the uninitiated. I used the word "interim" because regular deep cleaning will add life to a spinner just as it does a casting reel, but because the casting on a spinner is not mechanical they are often overlooked.

It depends on what you want. There are too many variables to talk price without some details. I encourage anyone interested or even curious contact me with what you're looking for. It doesn't cost anything to talk!

99.9% of the time reels are over lubricated if anything. Fish it hard right out the box and have it deep cleaned eventually.

It's always time for a custom. Don't think that a high performance rod built to your specs has to be cost prohibitive. Email, PM or call and I'll talk options with you. No obligation unless/until you lay down a deposit. Mike L

A Heddon Tiny Torpedo - Baby Bass color, hair jigs

An ABEC5 is as fast as a fishing reel can make use of assuming they are a true ABEC5 from a reputable mfg/supplier, which includes Boca.

I agree that a MH/F casting rod 6'6"-7" is a very versatile rod and second aavery2's point that the terms are subjective. On the opposite end of MH would be say a St Croix Avid which is pretty stout.

Congratulations, just be clear, you're getting Married - not Buried. Keep in the back of your mind if the unfortunate day ever comes, the saying "Cheaper to keep her" has more truth than poetry. Then again, there's more to life than money. Sorry for getting side tracked there. lol

Also, I use micro guides of one size or another on 90% of the builds I do and have yet to have one fail. The lack of care I see used in handling nice rods is astonishing.

To begin with the myth of fluoro being low or no stretch has been debunked so that's a non-issue. Secondly, after seeing first hand bed fishing, how fast a fish can inhale and spit a bait I don't buy the theory of the fish needing more time to eat the bait. IMO the main things to consider in crankbait line are line diameter to reach max depth, abrasion resistance and cast-ability. My deep cranking setup is a Lami SR 765 custom, Revo Winch spooled with 10# Suffix elite. Seems to be working.