Delaware Valley Tackle

Yup the PQ is the standard bearer for budget reels IMO. The $150> price point is super competitive for the brand name reel makers. So many good reels I don't see any advantage in straying too far.

"Smooth" is subjective just as "sensitive" and "Med-Hvy"..... it means different things to different people. The two extremes I run across are those who prefer a super free effortless reeling feel and then the fluid feel like stirring warm syrup. Many times either feel can be acquired from the same reel. What I would classify as "not smooth" in a new reel would be grinding, rattling, tight or loose spots, excessive back play etc. The TT review just pretty much conforms what users here and else where are saying. I have yet to see anything enlightening there but look at them just 'cause I'm a junky for all things fishing.lol

There is no inherent defect or advantage for that matter in the T wing. Friction is not a problem any more than conventional level winds. It's just another way to do the job. My guess on the the line stacking is that it occurs primarily with braid due to the limpness causing the line to not be picked up properly.

In fly fishing you're casting the line as opposed to the bait so don't scrimp on your fly line purchase. I'd start with a modest rod until you develop your own casting style and stroke. Then you can pick a rod with a complimentary action. No need for an expensive reel but I like one that allows for interchanging cartridges so you can spool it with different line and not need multiple reels.

Unless he has a cottage industry of discount tackle going, in which case it won't last long anyway, I'd think the sponsor would be glad to have new customers enjoying their products. We used to go to Moto Cross Nationals and buy tires for cheap after they were used for 20 minutes.

A jig with no trailer will catch fish but will have a very fast fall which is fine for reaction bites. As for color, there is nothing wrong with some contrast. I won't go so far as to say color has no importance but it's way further down on my personal list of priorities.

Marine or other water resistant grease for gears, heavy (gear oil) for bearings, light oil for bail pivot points, line roller and handle knobs.

7' Med Hvy/Fast is the most versatile casting rod matched with either a 6.4 or 7:1. I prefer 7:1. I'm right handed but use "lefty" reels (crank with left) to avoid swapping hands. 6-8# line is way too light. Go with a 14# mono or Fluoro or 40# braid (my choice for sensitivity and handling)

Pull off a cast and a half worth of line and put a wrap of electrical tape around the spool. This will stop the inevitable backlash from going any deeper than that. Let the rod load and do the work. Horsing a cast is the surest way to cause trouble for yourself.

Pick up a second hand Shimano Citica E or Revo S or a new BPS PQ on sale. They all have centrifugal bakes (dual on the PQ)which are user friendly. They are affordable reels that you won't "outgrow" as your skill and taste in tackle develops. Consider a St Croix Rage 7'+/- MH/F rod if you can push the budget a little bit. If not, a MH/F Mojo with one of the reels mentioned should fit right in $200.

Sorry, I got the threads mixed up. Thought you were looking for something for deep cranking. Yes a 6.x:1 is a good middle of the road, but I don't find the difference between that the 7:1 to feel drastically different.

Any flat bushing can be replaced with a bearing of the same dimensions - measure ID(inside diameter)xOD(outside diameter)xW(thickness)

For bass in and around cover an 8' 8wt with floating line is a good setup. Add a split shot to streamers if you need to. It works. I catch them on an all around 5wt but avoid real heavy cover.

I don't want to swear to it but I want to say that the Brownings are built in the same place as Lews, Pure Fishing brands and others so it comes down to features as Aavery2 said. For the change you're looking for I'd recommend a 5.x:1/<20"IPT reel in whatever brand you choose.

The biggest advantage is in using lower ratio/IPT reels (5.x:1<) for deep (DD22's etc) cranks and large colorado bladed spinners. The mechanical advantage can be felt at the end of a long day. Outside of this, High Speed reels are more of a preference. I like them for flipping etc to take up slack quickly when a fish swims right at you. I find them somewhat helpful getting some chatter-baits up on plane too.

Either removing the drag adjustment knob on the front of the spool or pushing the release button on the face of the spool should allow removal of the spool depending on the model.

The advantage of braid is more for the sensitivity due to zero stretch. I use a braided line weight with the same diameter as whatever mono I'd fish in the same setup. I agree that locked drags are unnecessary for boating bass and needlessly hard on equipment.

Riffles yes, rapids no (same for a jon boat)

Yup. Also called Dobbies (after the Dobson fly they grow into) Nasty little critters but the fish (especially smallies) love 'em.

A 1000 is a nice match on a 6' rod.

Most likely the rod is not loading properly for the lighter weight bait. Check that and the spool tension adjustment.

I've installed a few for other folks and didn't notice what you describe.

Why not contact Hawgtech themselves? They appear to be responsive to customer concerns from what I've seen.

The best is called KVD Line & Lure conditioner besides that, you can use Reel Magic or WD40. Spray some on a rag and reel the line through it. Line conditioners soften the line to give it less memory making it easier to handle. A spincast reel doesn't have to be empty of line for it to show symptoms that can be corrected by filling the spool.

Smooth, good casting but heavy reel. The smooth retrieve should make it fun to fish moving baits like spinners, traps and cranks