Delaware Valley Tackle

Life time warranties are really just replacement programs, a type of insurance the cost of which is built into the rod. If a blank is truly defective, it will break upon one of the first few times it is heavily loaded. Brittle isn't quite the right word but there is some trade off in a lower weight to stiffness ratio which is where sensitivity is derived from for the most part. If a high modulus blank's fibers are compromised by a bang on a boat cleat or a c-rig weight flopping in the wind, failure is more likely. Most often breakage occurs from high sticking and swinging fish. The tip should never be bent beyond 90* to the butt. If that rule is followed the deadlift capacity of a HM blank is every bit as high or higher than the old technology. To take it to extremes, you could say compare an indestructible Ugly Stick and a "Brittle" LTE and see witch is a more efficient fishing tool.

I put the Daiwa brake design in a class of its own due to the centrifugally activated inductor. When I think Mag brakes, the Revo type setup comes to mind and Centrifugal drum brakes are what they are for the most part. If you watch the spool as you cast each design with different baits you'll see when in the cast sequence you need to apply some thumb. I'm not sure anyone can tell someone else exactly how to do it.

As an interim fix, a retainer can be fashioned from a staple by bending it across the top. Just make sure it seats in the groove. Still get the correct part though.

WD 40, Reel Magic etc. contain petroleum distillates to make them sprayable. These products will actually DERGREASE parts. They work temporarily but are only masking actual problems.

For what you want to do, you want a metal frame. Look at BPS for a Pro Qualifier on sale.

Nice Evan. My thumb's still jacked up from mishandling a hammer handle pick last weekend.lol Oh and spill ways are poor fishing spots, don't waste your time everybody.

The Hot Sauce grease gums up terribly in my experience. Cal's Universal is a fine choice but again is a little lighter consistency than some other choices. Oil is the wrong choice for gears unless it's a bath system. It may feel nice initially but longevity will suffer.

The lower ratio / IPT is noticeable on DEEP divers (DD16-22 etc) other than that you're fine with a "Normal" ratio 6.x:1 +/-

In a spinning reel I tend to use a little heavier grease. The Marine grease mentioned is a good choice as it will not emulsify easily if in contact with water and is tolerant enough of heat and cold to be good year round. Super Lube is good as well. It's synthetic but a little lighter than the marine grease. It depends on the type of feel you like. For super easy free cranking go with the lighter grease, for a buttery smooth feel go a little heavier.

Dead on as usual. A similar golf analogy "Drive for show, putt for dough"!

Even when loosened the screw has some spring tension on it. Pull out lightly to keep it from hanging up and rotate the side plate clock wise (front side up).

I got your email and was going to suggest the braid possibility. Since that's off the table, send it in and I'll get on it.

JF, You still fish from the kayak too?

I agree completely, but that's exactly why I want a shakey head jig and worm to stand upright, to give a different look from the other baits.

I fish them most of the time on a regular 1/8 or 1/4 oz ball head jig.

People hear or are shown to do things a certain way and fill in the "why" on their own. Rolling your wrist so the handle point down is just more ergonomic of a motion. I can't think of any mechanical design reason for such advice but then again I wasn't there either when it was thought up.

If the redundant AR is adjusted and greased properly it is a nice added feature and goes literally unnoticed during operation. Flushing the bearings is the single most cost effective improvement you can make followed by deep cleaning, Carbontex drag upgrade, Super Tuning,bearing swaps in that order.

Typically the sweet spot for casting is somewhere in the middle of the labeled weight range but being subjective, suggested ranges, some trial and error is inevitable. Trying to cast too light of a bait will not load the rod and likely result in poor performance. Exceeding the posted range by a reasonable margin usually sees less negative performance wise, but obviously puts more stress on the blank and there needs to be awareness of that. In this particular case we're talking about a 50% increase from 4-6oz. I'd look for something heavier unless a user chimes in with their experience throwing that much weight on this rod.

Make it Southern Comfort and I'm in!!

The Cherry Wood is a decent value in a budget rod.

Ripping holes is one thing, barely skin hooked in the roof of the mouth is another. Be sure your hooks are sharp. If you have new jigs check that the weed guard isn't a lot longer/stiffer/thicker than you were using. They can be trimmed in length and/or thinned out if need be.

I wouldn't say difficult, but the new Curado isn't as super simple as the prior versions (E especially).

Be sure to compare IPT (Inches Per Turn of the handle) as some higher ratios do not increase IPT as one would be led to believe. The most meaningful reel ratio/IPT application is a lower one for deep cranks and other high resistance lures. Burner reels are more a preference over standard (6.x:1) gear ratios. Personally, I like high speed reels for taking up slack quickly should a fish pick up a jig etc. and swim toward me.

Ultra light bait casting is a high dollar proposition and even then there are compromises. Spinning tackle is the right tool for the job you describe. Maybe a nice little spin cast reel would be a good option.

A faster action isn't necessarily stiffer. I'd look at line, bait, hooks and see if you can identify anything that would cause the poor hook sets you're getting. The faster action should be driving the hook home better if anything. I'm pretty sure the issue popping up at the time of a new rod is coincidence in this case.