Delaware Valley Tackle

What did you lube the bearings with and are you sure they were clean? How tight is the spool tension knob set? Any chance you got grease on the spool shaft rim or frame? Was the spool tension loose when you replaced the opposite side plate? they can bind otherwise.

Read Eddie Taylor's article on this site under the equipment section. He explains rod ratings as well as I've seen. I like XF actions for deep water and light bites. F & XF are subjective terms too as has been pointed out. The action of the rod has nothing to do with how stiff the tip is. For example a "popping" used for top waters and casting live bait has a fast action but a soft tip. This helps keep the bait from getting torn up casting.

I don't see any mechanical reason for such advice. If this were the case Daiwa would be scrambling to fix the issue, not encouraging their reps to push a work-around.

A dry bearing can make a screech but 9/10 times the noise is something else especially if it came on suddenly. If you had centrifugal brakes I'd say look there, but that's not the case here. There's really no way to diagnose without seeing the reel. No need to replace the reel. If you'd like to send it in include your screen name and I'll apply a 10% BassResource.com members discount, bringing the cost of service down $19.80. Let me know if you have any questions.

When fishing I grip around the reel seat either palming a baitcaster or with the stem of a spinning reel between my pinky and ring finger so the grip doesn't affect me all that much. Fly fishing is another matter. You need a firm comfortable grip or you'll wear yourself out.

Where is he fishing that rig that the baits need to be rigged weedless? I'd want the open hook myself, but I don't see what the frame material would have to do with it. If you think weedless will help I say go for it.

The Albright knot is good for joining dissimilar diameters and is slim enough to cast well. As long as the lines are appropriate for the presentation you shouldn't have to worry about the difference in diameter at all.

Being shore bound all you can do with the points is walk out on them if you have the access. envision the bank extending out into the water and fish off each side progressively deeper. Deep cranks are good for that. But I really like a C-rig. You ca work them slow and the feel is a great way to find deeper structure and cover you can't see. I'd systematically work my way around the whole pond dragging a C-rig perpendicular to the bank every 10' or so. Make note of drops, humps, bottom composition changes, grass, brush etc. I'm sure the 'gills are a primary forage but bass will attack anything that looks edible at the right time. I think pond bass eat a lot of terrestrials to. Anything that imitates bugs, worms, mice etc. will get their attention too. The main thing is to find them and figure out what mood they're in.

On your budget I recommend a St Croix Mojo MBS70MF (7' Med/Fast) and a Pflueger President spinning reel. These are good quality tools that you won't "outgrow" as your skill and taste in tackle evolve.

1/3 of the weakest link is the rule of thumb I go by. 3# or so should be fine for your setup.

That pond has some structure to it. I'd approach it the same as a bigger lake. Points, corners, grass mats, etc. If there's an inlet or outlet that creates a little current those are always good spots in a pond as is the dyke or dam if there is one.

Do you miss her?

Bang for the buck wise Pflueger spinning reels are hard to beat, the President especially. I have a Stradic Ci4 and like that very much but more of an investment.

The lack of stretch should give you a better hookset if anything. A slow action rod and mono may make hook sets more difficult. I fish a Lami SR 765 with a 4600C3 Ambassadeur spooled with 10# Suffix Elite smoke color line and it works well for me. I'd check the hooks first. Be sure they are sticky sharp. Does the rod you're using allow you to feel the vibration of the bait? Sweep set on anything that disrupts the bait's wobble. I think what some perceive as pulling the bait from the fishes mouth (described as giving them time to eat it) is really the fish taking and spitting the bait.

Secret fishing holes are as big a myth as the skunk ape (sorry guys).

Check the NYS DEC website whenever in doubt: http://www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/31421.html Pickerel limit is 15" 5/day. There's no reason pickerel and bass can't coexist though. If you want to eat a few picks be my guest but please leave the fisheries management to the professionals.

A lot of reel seats can be mounted up or down locking so this has more to do with the seat itself and the reel foot. A wrap of plumber's teflon tape around the threads will keep the hood tight, come loose when you want it to and won't leave any sticky residue.

That will catch a few. Looks like a big beetle-spin

Ya it will be practice that gets you there. While practicing, don't use too light of a weight. I suggest something in the upper half of the rod's lure weight rating. Concentrate on developing a nice smooth casting stroke. Just like throwing a ball the direction of your swing and release point will dictate where your bait will go.

On reel with mag brakes the magnetic force is applied to either the spool itself or a part attached to the spool as in the inductor referenced. Without knowing the model of the reel no one can help you diagnose why the brakes are not functioning correctly. Chances are the adjustment knob that moves the brakes closer and further away is malfunctioning.

"Micro" guides save enough that you can use an extra guide or two and still have a meaningful advantage but some are just ridiculous. 10 guides on a 6'6" rod is overkill and I seldom place guides less that 3.5 apart. There's no harm in the line contacting the blank on a bass when it's loaded as long as it doesn't dip below. A deep sea rod where hard running fish generate heat might be another story. Spiral wrapped micros are my default setup for bass rods and I make changes based on specific circumstances.

I've caught bass in what feels like bath water, but always in the shade or weeds. If they have access to more comfortable water I wouldn't expect to find them hanging out in unusually warm water like that.

This is correct. The idea is to use the smallest, lightest guides that will work in an application. "Work' means they will pass the line and connections, and will hold up to the pressure (this is not a major concern for bass fishing). Every gram of weight that can be shaved off a rod, especially in the tip section, helps the blank retain as much of it's inherent properties as possible. The result is as crisp, responsive and sensitive a finished rod as you can build. Some of the problems in a production rod are that "Micro" covers a range of guide sizes which they often don't employ, they operate under the misconception that any contact between the line and blank is catastrophic causing them to use way too many guides partially offsetting the benefits, and make unrealistic claims like greatly improved casting distance. As a point of reference, a size 4 (4mm ring not the opening) will easily pass a well tied Albright knot joining 50# braid & 15# fluoro. Filamentous algae and ice build up are two conditions I don't run too small of a guide.

As for current & smallmouth, I look for spots with current then target the breaks within the current. These spots are typically more productive than "frog water" in my experience. Do you agree?

The rod won't cause or prevent backlash. It may contribute if you're forcing a cast with too light of a bait, but when popping top waters you need to be sure to reel the slack back onto the reel so it's not too loose and coiled up. Here's the article you're looking for: http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/rod-actions-power.html. Couldn't have said this better myself.