Delaware Valley Tackle

When choosing or building a rod it's important to consider not only the species and possible incidental catches, but more importantly, the technique, bait, cover/structure, line, from boat or bank, stature of the angler, reel to be used and anything else personally favored by you. If you're fishing vertically with light jigs I'd go with something similar to a drop-shot rod: ML/XF 6'9" If casting live bait I'd go with more of a popping rod: fast but soft tip. M/F Trolling plugs: 7' M or MH/ Mod

Fussy?...I just had a flashback, and it wern't pretty.

When they say the line comes off the filler spool the same way, they mean the line is coiled the same way it will go onto the reel spool. 14# mono on a spinning reel smaller than a 4000 size will be a handful too. The alternative spooling method is to put the filler on a spindle with some pressure to take slack out and make sure the line is coming off the bottom of the filler spool (top for baitcasters).

It's best to measure anyway. Even on a new blank I often order one size up and down from the claimed tip size. If not marked clearly, top sizes are listed by ring size/tube size. A 6/5 top is a size 6 ring and a 5/64ths tube. Ring size is determined by the ID of the frame opening, not the insert.

If memory serves that reel uses a dry drag system, but either way, it needs servicing. The value of the reel is not worth sending in to be honest. Down load a schematic and do your best with it. Cleaning and reassembly should take care of it. If you want to contact me when you get it apart I'll hook you up with the Carbontex drag washers for it.

Late in the year can be really good on the river here. The big smallies put the feedbag on. Get in touch and I'll show you a few spots.

A size 6 is about the smallest double foot you'll find commonly. Post a pic and I'll try to help you match it.

A leader is used when conditions call for a blend of line characteristics. Roadwarriors example is a common one. For mono, about the only time you'd run a leader would be if pike are present and likely to bite the line off. In this case you'd use heavy (as in 50-100#) fluoro or wire leader. If you fish a Carolina Rig you have main line, slip weight, bead, swivel, leader and hook. In this case the leader may be the same line or one size down. This is so if you break off all you lost is a hook.

That's just what I was looking at. I like the one hand stowing feature too. Thanks guys.

You need a better quality guide not necessarily bigger. I don't want to blow it out of proportion because it's not catastrophic by any means, but I'd be hesitant to offset a micro build with a "big, heavy" tip top.

Yes, either will suffice on a cranking rod. On a rod where sensitivity is optimum, the smallest, lightest guide that will do the job (hold up and pass line, connections etc.) allows the blank to retain as much of its inherent qualities as possible. This results in better sensitivity and crispness. Properly employed, there is no need for many if any more guides. If one or two extras are used, the weight savings is still significant.

Guides are measured by the inside diameter of the ring, not the insert. If the opening measures 5mm, it's most likely a 6mm guide.

I don't know HP specifically, but counterfeit bearings do exist. My suggestion would be Boca ABEC5 Lightning bearings. The performance is there and the cost is less. I assume you've flushed and oiled the stock bearings?

I think I'll just let that one be.

This why I take TT reviews with a grain of salt. Neither a mechanical AR or roller clutch is engaged or has any affect during casting. One may have performed better than the other but it wasn't due to the AR design. A slight difference in the amount of lube in the bearings could account for that small difference.

The rod has everything to do with it. If one reel model has your preferred braking system as a feature that may help you. Whatever reel you choose at some point flush the bearings and oil lightly (or have it done as part of a deep cleaning/service). With the exception of deep cranking and maybe spinner bait searching, casting distance is way over rated when it comes to putting fish in the boat. If you're shore bound of have some other situation that requires exceptionally long casts, nothing beats a spinning setup for raw casting distance.

The entire guide needs to be replaced, rewrapped and refinished. On single foot guide you're looking at $7-$10 plus the guide most likely to be repaired by a local builder. I'd be happy to do it but the shipping is prohibitive in this case.

The minimum lure weight range will increase slightly. Sensitivity shouldn't be affected. Thread the rod and attach the line to a weight and put a bend in the rod to simulate fish fighting. If the line going thru the guides doesn't make any obviously abrupt angles, no need to reposition guides. This called "Static Testing". I use a more in depth form of this process to place guides on custom builds.

I'm in the market for a new more powerful electric TM to put on a 10' Bass Raider. My first question is, What is the point of diminishing returns power wise? I have a 35# and was thinking 45-55#. Looking to maximize battery life while fighting slow to moderate river current. Second, Motor Guide, Minn Kota...? Thanks

I fish a lot of soft plastics but have a load of Siebert's Jigs coming my way. Hoping to up the average size of my catch.

I take JF's suggestions to heart. They pay off more often than not. In the case of the ATF though, I have trouble seeing any inherent characteristic that would make it perform any better than a straight light hydraulic oil with its anti corrosion additives. ATF is designed to withstand pressure and heat, neither of which are present in this application. A lot of common prescription drugs came about as side affects from treating another condition, this may be a case like that. I guess if it works, who care why.

I find gear oil to be a good compromise. It stays put better than oil but doesn't gum up the way grease does in an exposed application.

Don't grease the AR on Shimanos. Check the friction ring (plasic/rubber ring around the rotor base) for cracks/ weathering. Grease it up to prevent from swelling in the rain. This should have been addressed in newer models but without seeing it that's about it.

Spinners typically require a little less maintenance than casters but it depends on the level of use and conditions etc. When they start feeling "off" I go all through them just like a caster. The biggest mistake is never doing anything until they're worn out and then expecting a cleaning and lube to make them good as new. It will certainly help bit once those gears start to wear you'd need to rebuild the whole thing to make it raelly right again. In between full tear downs make sure the line guide roller is working freely and that the bail arm pivot points are clean and lighly oiled. A drop on the oscilating shaft is good and if you want maybe a drop of gear oil on the two crank bearings (under the handle and opposite side cap). That should keep you going strong.

Good catch. I missed the x. You can make sure the pinoinshaft is disengaging fully from the spool end. There should be a little e clip around it under the cast control cap and bearing.