Delaware Valley Tackle

With the prevalence of braid super-lines, line weight rating is next to meaningless on a freshwater rod. Don't lock the drag down and avoid movements that flex the tip beyond 90* to the butt (over aggressive hooksets, swinging fish etc.) and you'll never have a problem.

For the budget you're considering seriously consider a quality custom build. I have a few good blanks I can suggest and come in well within your budget. Email me if you'd like to talk more about it.

Graphite and plastic are kind of dirty words when we talk about reels but truth is both have advanced with technology. Graphite is a form of carbon fiber so the Ci4 material has to be a composite of some type. Some really cheap reels boast of aluminum frames but they are cast, as opposed to machined and are brittle junk. I look at the complete package and reputation and try not to get hung up on any one feature.

Drop-shot is just a terminal rig that can be a hundred different ways. That's like saying a T-rig is for small fish. For that matter you could nose hook or T rig a tube and fish it above a drop shot weight. Location/Depth/Presentation gets you bit.

Grab a bag of 4" Yamamoto Senkos or Yum Dingers in green pumpkin and some 03 worm hooks. Cast parallel to the bank and let it sink. Inch it along the bottom SLOWLY or recast a few feet ahead. Work your way out from the bank and around the pond. You'll get bites. If you don't after a couple tries, find better water.

The guides are lined up with each other so some one probably sighted down it and said good'nuff. From building rods I can see how it can happen, but shouldn't have made it out the door.

Technique specific labels are merely suggestions and are subjective just like every other rod rating or description. Can you imagine going to the lumber yard and having to choose between short, medium and long boards? That's kind of what we're up against and lets face it, the large majority of rods are sold to folks way less informed, experienced and die-hard as we here.

Make sure whoever paints a reel has some idea how they go together. Paint and clear coat in the wrong area can make reassembly a pita.

X2. "Med Hvy" and "Fast" are relative terms anyway. Use and enjoy your gift.

Flushing and re-oiling is a good cast effective way to maximize performance but I recommend fishing a new reel hard right out of the box to eliminate the possibility of any warrantee issues. After the first season have it deep cleaned and then keep the bearings lightly oiled and have it serviced as needed.

I like a glass rod for deep cranks with long casts. I fish square bills shallow an around cover so the fish don't have as much chance to jump and throw a hook. I build my square bill rods on a M/MF composite blank. The M/M Avid Roadwarrior suggested is pretty comparable.

Call or email Pinnacle directly for parts availability and ordering. I've found them helpful.

The key with mandrels is that they need to be straight and rigid. If they flex and wobble, you'll have trouble keeping the grip concentric. I drill out the cork rings to 3/8 and use a 3/8 mandrel. This has helped a lot. It also makes final reaming even easier.

Nothing is perfect, there are always trades-offs and the chance of wind knots is a price for the benefits of braid.

Tim's right, and you can't compare micro guides to others on different rods. It just doesn't tell you anything. In a custom build, I use the smallest lightest guides that will do the job (strong enough, and will pass connections etc).

An aluminum frame, maybe side plate, and smooth strong drag are what to look for but 22# of drag on a bass reel is overkill. The rod is your main fish fighting tool and locking down a drag is just asking for something to break. A application like this stresses a reel so you want something sturdy but whatever you choose I wouldn't use it as a winch.

You have the basics covered. Consider what type of fishing and cover you fish most and work toward a technique specific setup you'll use most.

JF's right. It's not critical right now but may be an issue later on.

Ya, you're missing some parts there.

ML is subjective. It depends on the bait weight and cover. A longer rod will cast further and sometimes you need to in clear shallow water, but I'm not one to always bomb casts out as far as I can. I find myself leaning more towards ML for spinning tackle in general.

If what they call "Cross Carbon" is similar to the small washer under the gear on a Chronarch E, then yes it can be run dry. I never understood why they took the half measure with the CH unless it was to run down the inventory of that "Dartanium" material they use.

There is nothing "wrong" with the G series Curado. The controversy stems from the marketing decision to keep the Curado label at a <$200 price point. $100 is 33% discount off msrp. It's a lot of reel for the clearance price. Another good value is the BPS PQ at $70 on sale

Believe it or not the $1.89 Fiskar craft scissors work great and hold an edge. It's a rod builders tip I saw on line and it works.

Gloomis rods are quality rods but they trade heavily off the Loomis name. Value is relative as has been discussed. The point of diminishing returns on a factory rod is about $250. Anyone spending that or more (and sometimes less) would get more value from talking with a reputable custom builder. We can get just as good of components, custom fit them to the angler and application and maximize performance and comfort. It comes down to the individual attention to detail a builder can put into each rod that just isn't feasible in a mass production atmosphere.

Drag washers shouild be degraesed and dried along with the rest of the reel. "wet" drags like Shimano uses should be greased as stated above with a drag specific product. Shimano and Cals are two of the best. Carbon drags like Daiwa and ABU use don't need to be greased unless you're fishing for big, long running fish where heat can build up. Ceramic drags like some Quantums use must be dry.