Delaware Valley Tackle

That reel is perfectly fishable. It has a large line capacity isn't going to cast light baits well anyway so don't be afraid to spool up some 65-80# braid for and A-rig/swimbait/musky-pike spinners etc.

"Micro" covers a range of guide sizes so you'll have to look at the rod to tell if the line & connections are appropriate for the setup. Grooving is not an issue with any of the modern quality guides. The only way you'll knock out an insert would be cranking a wire leader clip or swivel into the guides. A #4 "micro" guide will pass an Albright knot joining 50# braid a 17# leader with no problem.

Repeated & prolonged Naphtha exposure has health implications as well. So far, Perfect Solution seems to be just that.

Please take this advice in the spirit in which it is intended: Make school your #1 priority and work on honing communication skills. The grammar and puctuation in your post is poor. This will cause potential business associates to gloss right over the message itself. And keep in mind that this applies to email as well. Best of luck and follow your dreams.

a good, clean, dry bearing will spin almost silently for several seconds. In use, it depends on the reel.

The thing I like about the Orange Seals is that they come off easy, I almost always chuck them and run them open. They're supposed to be non-contact but that's not always the case and rarely after being removed and replaced.

Spin test the bearing dry. If its clearly audible, feels rough and/or comes to a sudden stop as opposed to slowing gradually they need replacing.

It's a Boca 3x10x4 ABEC5 Lube Dry. LD is the way they come, not the way they should be run by the way. ZZ are Stainless, Y-ZZ are Ceramic Hybrid

FYI, the PQ will be <$70 with a trade in. I wouldn't be surprised if the aluminum frame is cast as opposed to machined or forged. Likely other differences in materials . The PQ is such a value I have a hard time seeing the need to try their lesser offerings.

If you're not experienced with the inner workings of a spinning reels I suggest you limit service to the following: Remove the spool and oil the mainshaft and crank it a few times. remove the handle and cap from the opposite side. Put a few drops of heavy oil (gear lube) on each bearing. Light oil on bail arms and line roller. If you suspect the gears are dry have it serviced.

Fish it hard right out of the box. If there are no warranty issues you can flush the bearings. Have it deep cleaned after the first saeson and regularly thereafter.

I know what you're saying. I've posted before that it is cool to visually see a difference. What's misleading about these vidoes and experiments is that they aren't progressive. A stock bearing should be compared to a stock bearing that's been flushed and lubed correctly. That's where you'll see the biggest difference. Upgrading to an ABEC5 will be slightly better, a dry ceramic hybrid will be a hair better than that and an ABEC7 will be better than that but almost imperceptable. The difference between the flushed stockers and any of the rest is slight and "on the water" any advantage depends on the caster. The way I look at all this is from an enthusiast point of view. A stock 600cc sport bike will do 168mph off the showroom floor, yet almost everyone puts a high performance exhaust on. Why? Because they like the idea of maybe doing 180mhp if they wanted to (of could). From a practical standpoint it doesn't make any sense. If you're an entusiast it doesn't make any sense NOT to tune. Different strokes for different folks.

Number one, Contact BPS at Outdoor World and request a schematic. Never open any reel without one. Second, rear drags are a pain to work on even for the experienced folks. Depending on the design, you may not be able to get it completely torn down without a specialized tool. What makes you want to open it up?

A Float Coat is exactly what you want in cold water. I'll be picking one up to wear wading for steelhead.

Welcome to the forum. Deep water fishing is probably the hardest to learn. Unlike fishing the shallows there are no easily visible targets of structure or cover. Contour maps and electronics are very important. Minus those, probing the bottom with deep cranks and heavy Carolina rigs can help find bottom features. Humps, rock piles, ledges, deep weedlines, and transitions from soft to hard bottom are what you're looking for. Bait fish on the sonar if you have it is an obvious spot. You've come to the right place for answers for sure. A lot of knowledgeable folks here. Check out the library of articles too. There's a lifetime of reading and watching videos all right here.

x2

Spool spinning demos and videos are too over rated for words. Cleaning stock bearings and properly lubing them is the single most efficient performance improvement you can make. If and when bearings go bad and need to be changed anyway, why not upgrade them to a better ABEC rating (5-7) and maybe a better material as in ceramic hybrid. I sell ABEC7 OSC Bocas primarily to reel enthusiasts. This is the same mentality as folks who want a high performance exhaust etc on a muscle car or motorcycle. In that vein, it's counter productive to spend money on a high speed bearing like the OSC and them slow it down with oil. If longevity is the primary concern, use a ABEC5 SS bearing clean and lightly oiled. The price is more driven by the ABEC rating than material, so what you'll find is that the ABEC5 Lightening is where you'll get the best performance/cost. There is no reason that a bearing can not be run open which aids cleaning and oiling. Also, the size of "1 drop" of oil can make a difference so comparing the spin of any oiled bearing really doesn't tell you anything. The benefits of improved free spool, regardless of how it's achieved, depends on the casting ability of the angler. I like a free spool for short accurate casting personally. As far as distance casting goes, a bait of a given weight, density and profile will only store a certain amount of energy and fly just so far whether it's attached to a line and reel or nothing at all.

You usually see these cord/shrink grips on really large diameter boat rods where a thicker grip material would be too large to grasp well.

Either of the higher speed reels will work. It comes down to personal preference when comparing 6.4:1 and 7:1. I like a faster reel for burning baits and for techniques that put slack in the line you may want to take up quickly.

x2 same here

Boy, no such thing as a trade secret (or secret fishing hole for that matter) anymore. Kidding aside, I've never seen anything emulsify oil & grease the way this Perfect Solution stuff does. I'd buy big refill containers if I can find them. Thanks JF for sharing this find with us.

Wdy, You can try pulling the spool and see if you still hear or feel anything. If so, it will have to be opened up for further inspection. Let me know if you need anything. Mike

Rod building is a rewarding craft and can be addictive. There is a definite learning curve though and some investment, although you don't need to break the bank. If all your looking for is a rod or two of a particular design, you're probably better off having one done for you. Which ever way you decide to go I'll be happy to assist in any way I can.

You have a good base to cover all the basics. What to add depends on the type of water you typically fish. I'd probably look for a 7'-7'6" H/F for heavy cover. This also good for Carolina rigs which can be the co-anglers best friend on some days. Sometimes casting a heavy jig that falls faster can help you keep up if the boater it flying down the bank and you only get quick shots at targets. Now, if you fish a lot of clear open water for smallies, a ML/XF 6'8" drop shot rod might suit you better. As suggested, you don't have to bring everything you own on the boat every time. Talk to the boater ahead of tim and get a feel for what and where you'll fish.

That's right. If there is a cap that's removable, you may want to fashion a puller out of a stiff piece of small dia. wire or a safety pin maybe. The schematic only shows the full handle. If anything, you might retrofit a handle from a higher model.