Delaware Valley Tackle

Assuming the blank is not compromised, replacing a guide is a $10 job for a builder. DIY is an option too as mentioned.

A rod in any retail environment has been handled countless times, and likely in ways that would make you cringe. Check them over carefully and if one sneaks past that's what warranty and store return policies are for.

For "feel" techniques like jigs/plastics invest in the highest quality rod you can afford. For a cranking set up, lean your budget toward a smooth power (low IPT) reel.

The only bass fishing application that benefits greatly from a specific gear ratio ( actually IPT ) is deep crank-baiting. The rest are more personal preference. Mine is for a high speed reel for jigs/plastics to take up slack for a good hookset when they swim towards you.

Only the makers know why they choose to label their rods the way they do. My guess would be that the weights are "med" in comparison to other rods in that line (crankbait vs jig rods). I doubt that a rod rated for 3/8 min will load and cast well with 1/4oz . Drop down one weight if they offer one.

The stretch in mono does not make up for the flex and recovery of a mod or mod/fast action rod. I like a mod/fast for ripping across the tops of weeds and a mod glass rod for deep cranking.

Rod ratings are all subjective as there are no industry standards. Rod blank materials, wall thickness, taper etc all affect the end product. As a general rule the sweet spot for casting weight in somewhere near the middle of the manufactures suggested rating. If you're set on a particular brand and bait weight, look for the model that best fits regardless of whether they call it Med, Med Lite, or mystery weight.

The ML blanks I typically build on are rated 1/16-3/8. 1/8 casts well enough but 3/16-1/4 is the sweet spot. 1/16 works for vertical or short casts.

When it comes to angles I've become good at flipping to the back side of targets as you pass by. You have to quick and only get one shot but it can pay off. I also often fish off the opposite side of the boat where you can pick up a bigger fish slightly deeper.

A quality two piece rod is just as good as a one piece of the same quality. Modern integrated ferrules are very good. St Croix for one makes a good travel series.

I'm heading up next week. Thanks for the preview!

IMO 90% of the reviews I see on shopping sites are nonsense. Tackle Tour, I check but take with a grain of salt. I put the most emphasis on feedback from members here. At the end of the day a certain amount of trial and error is necessary and to me, is part of the fishing experience.

The inertia carried by a heavier spool will make it want to spin longer and in theory cast a little further. A lighter spool starts easier making casting light baits easier. It seems that the weight difference between different backings would be minimal and so would the effect of changing them. On top of this, max casting distance is a distant second to accuracy when it comes to fish in the boat. There's nothing wrong with experimenting and going with what you feel works for you though.

You don't need anything special for this. Look around the house and garage for oils and let me know what you have and I'll tell you which to use where.

The schematic will show a part number and sometimes name for each part. I recommend never attempting to work on a reel without one in front of you.

Thanks for posting and reminding us all. I always wear a pdf in a boat but I do a lot of wading and honestly hardly ever wear one then, a practice I think I'll reconsider. Any one else wear a pdf to wade? Also, I've read that the gas for inflatables has less volume when cold and may not inflate fully, one more thing to consider.

If you do backlash with braid just don't tug on it and you'll be fine. A Palomar knot on the terminal end and Albright for connecting leaders are good to know.

If you want to upgrade get a Pro Qualifier at BPS or look at a Citica form Shimano or an ABU Revo S

U40 is the way to go. Cork won't absorb stains and such. They do make shrink wrap for rod handles but you obviously loose the feel of the cork.

From the looks of the pic the spool is not over loaded so the tangles are coming from line twist. This will happen to any spinning reel eventually but to minimize it strip off the line and re-spool correctly with some soft mono. Close the bail by hand as suggested; do not reel when drag is going out; use swivels with spinning and tumbling baits like flukes; remove the inevitable line twist before it becomes a problem by feeding out two casts worth of line, put on a swivel and tie off to a solid brace and stretch the line as much as you can without breaking it. As for maintaining the reel, since you're a youngster I'd do it for free but the shipping alone would be more than the reel so do the following: remove the handle and drop some gear oil into the opening on each side of the frame. Pop off the spool and put a drop of light oil on the shaft where it moves in and out and crank a few turns, put a drop of oil on each hinge to the bail. Save up and grab a Pflueger Trion at Walmart etc. Email me if you need any help.

That's right, get your wallet out if you insist on casting tackle for this light of stuff. Even then baits with so little mass will only fly just so far.

Shimano, ABU, Daiwa offerings at that price point make it almost impossible to go wrong. If you have any preferences we might be able to help you narrow down choices.

For $50-$60 bucks you can find a second hand Shimano Curado 200B. These reels are built like tanks and are user friendly. Anything new in the price range you're asking about will be disappointing in performance as well as durability. For about $80 you can get a BPS Pro Qualifier on sale. These are good reels that will continue to perform as your skill level increases.

Good plan, as you learn be aware of lure weight ratings and ignore line weight. Line weight means next to nothing on light fresh water tackle.

There's more to this than on post can cover. There's a good article on the forum here: http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/rod-actions-power.html. For now ignore technique specific labels and work toward building an arsenal including a Med power fast action spinning rod which it looks like you have, for jigs & plastics <1/2oz. Next, a casting rod in Med/Hvy power and fast action for the same baits >1/2. Third, a MH/moderate action for crankbaits and other treble hook lures. 6'6 - 7' will work for any of them. For best casting the lure weight should fall well within the lure weight range on the rod. As you get more experience with rods and develop preferences of your own you can post technique specific questions for suggestions, and you'll get LOTS.