Delaware Valley Tackle

The only thing I'd add is to be sure and keep the blade perpendicular to the blank when scraping. This helps avoid accidentally cutting into the blank.

There are several advantages to a spiral (Acid) wrap rod. The torsion aspect is one, but that's more noticeable on a surf or boat rod. A bass rod just sin't subjected to those type loads. Moving the guides to the bottom of the rod allows the line to more easily follow the natural bow of the rod using fewer guides which saves weight. It does keep the line off the rod as well but that's secondary IMO. My first recommendation for custom rods is a spiral wrap.

I can't stand anything between my toes. I'd jump overboard after 30 minutes if I had to wear those.

You really should look locally. The shipping on a rod is about $20 each way alone. The job itself is probably less than $20 depending on the guides used. With a more detailed location I might be able to point you toward someone.

Brian, I fished Black Lake 4th of July week quite a few years ago. There are LMB, SMB, Pike and panfish. Back then the lake turned pea-soup green in the summer so dark colors, large profiles, thumping blades and rattles all helped. I fished seasonal patterns and cought some of everything. The St Lawrence is very close too for a day trip. This may help: http://www.angelfire.com/pa2/billj/MYHOTSPOTS.html http://www.fishinghotspots.com/index.html

It's really hard to diagnose something without seeing it first hand. If you don't want to send it in, call or email me and I'll try to help you work through it.

I agree, but he's talking about lures that inherently twist the line. The only good way to manage that is a swivel. You want to see twist? Side-spin casting a centrepin will wreck a spool in minutes, without swivels. I use two in my terminal rig - one to mange the twist from the cast, and another to manage the leader twisting in current. This is why I prefer Panther Martin in-line spinners. The blade turn very freely minimizing twist. Roostertails are the worst and Mepps are in the middle IMO.

I'm not sure from your description where you put grease, but it doesn't belong on any spool parts. A clean/lube service is $16.20 for forum members ($18-10%).

Alpster's right, the best you can hope for where line twist is concerned is to manage it and minimize it.

Have you considered a 50E? This might be a good fit especially for throwing the lighter baits. Ratio wise, the difference isn't huge but if going with the bigger reel I'd pick the CU-E7.

I thought he was targeting only trout, I didn't realize he was talking about bass. The Dogwood Canyon rod and reel combo I got years ago hasn't let me down once, and while not top of the line, is a great starter setup. i am targeting trout with this, on streams so maybe not a to long of a rod Don't go too short either, especially when learning to cast a fly rod. The shorter length can magnify casting errors. 8' is probably a good starter length.

PA, NY, CT, NJ all on-line...$$$ ouch :'(

No fear guys, I'm here. No missed calls though. Number is (973) 459-2835. Nibbles - You have a PM!

This was Greg at Pinnacle in this case.

We got into this years ago in the lube business when one of the auto manufacturers tried to tie their warranty to the use of a certain brand of motor oil. Lube is a scapegoat all too often blamed for what is really a design or material flaw. This tactic didn't fly for long then, and I doubt that it would now. I actually had a somewhat related situation lately. I opened an unused spinning reel that the oscillator wasn't working on. I found the main-shaft had a bend right where it attached to the gear causing a bind. When I tried to order a new part, the rep said the reel is out of production and the part is not available. He agreed that it sounded like a manufacturer defect and offered to give my customer a current model reel as a replacement.

I agree with JF as well. Use a new reel to be sure there are no manufacturer defects then have it serviced and get it back better than new.

Spinning the spool on a new reel is almost the equivalent of kicking the tires on a new car. lol RM pretty much covered it. You wont see a reel's full potential until it's cleaned and lubed correctly.

Try to think more in terms of what kind of bait would work well with the rod. That will lead you to the species you'll want to target. Post the specs marked on the rod and you'll get more helpful suggestions.

Yes, definitely have a schematic in front of you before you open any reel. Keep in mind that the schematic shows parts and where they go, but not necessarily the order of dis-assembly and reassembly. Also depending on the schematic, part descriptions are sometimes less than crystal clear. Give yourself plenty of time, a well lit and organized work space and take notes and/or photos along the way.

Jacob, You have a PM. I'm sorry you've had difficulty contacting us. :'( I generally return messages at least twice a day. Please make sure you have the correct address: mlawson@delawarevalleytackle.com. I can also be reached via PM here and at 973-459-2835.

That was my point. You need to watch what's going on, not at the tip, but at the line.

x2 on the Revos responding to a proper cleaning and lube

Unless you just want to tinker, I suggest upgrading the bearings only if the stock ones are worn out, especially if you're basically happy with the performance now.

Then you have those that don't watch the tip or the line and try to do everything by feel. You'll miss bites this way too, no matter what rod you're using.

For starters, the action listed on a rod is subjective, so what the maker considers fast or x-fast can vary. Also, the the fast and extra fast could have similar backbone. Each design has its time and place. If you're fishing small weightless worms, a faster tip might be an advantage. You typically see the XF tips on Drop-Shot and other finesse applications. For everyday T-rig worm fishing a MH/fast action rod is fine. This is largely another case of preference, so there really can't be a winner in this argument.