Delaware Valley Tackle

Don’t get hung up on this. That’s a nice bottom contact t rig, senko, fluke rod. I like it for hard jerkbaits too.

Depending on how you define sleeper, Daiwa’s original Exceler was a good value that didn’t get a lot of attention. My only rap on Daiwa at that time was price so an affordable workhorse reel was a good addition. Second, the Curado G was not a bad reel at all. More in line with the simple workhorse design of the B. By that point in time Shimano had conditioned customers to expect a more refined reel carrying the Curado label so they bungled that from a marketing standpoint. The reel itself was a good value though.

That’s the red one, right? I had one but think I sold it. I’ll take a look.

Neither tape or backing will have any negative effect on your reels performance. There’s more than one way to skin a cat (sorry PETA)

I throw them on different rods due to the weight difference and hook’s used. I prefer 4” weightless worms so the difference is more pronounced. I’ll use a ML or M fast spinning rod for worms and M or Mh for Ikas depending on cover.

The braid you’re using is just new. Once it breaks in it’ll lay and handle just fine.

Remember 3/4 is the lead head. Add wire, blades, skirt and maybe trailer and you’re near or north of a full oz.

Vertical jigging or casting? How deep? Vertical fishing in moderate depth you can overload the rod slightly keeping the weight on the bottom and still having the light tip to detect subtle bites. Deep water or casting and dragging you probably want a heavier power.

You don’t need anything different from the rod you’d use to cast any other bottom contact bait of similar weight. You can get away with a heavier weight since it’s below the bait. What you need to remember when casting a drop shot as opposed to vertical fishing, is that the angle created requires a longer leader to keep the bait up off the bottom.

It depends on the rig details. Head weights, baits, big blades etc. this is an application where a lower ratio reel has a mechanical advantage. 5:1 etc

AJ, just saw this thread, prayers from our family to yours.

Given the cover, I’d agree and add a good drag (smooth, powerful but not locked down)

Depends on the circumstances: cover, bait, fish size, etc. I pitch with every reel I use.

I’d suspect a rod guide of the line itself before the reel

Is your problem the retainer or the handle nut itself? If you stripped the nut hopefully you didn’t damage the main shaft threads. If so, send it in and I’ll repair it as needed.

I service JDM reels with the understanding that parts can be an issue. Seldom occurs though.

Lamiglass sr 765 MH (sadly no longer available) Revo Winch, old Daiwa crazy cranker if you can find one.

I’ll run a leader if I want to be able to break off easily if necessary, if abrasion is a concern like around zebra mussel or conserve line if changing baits often. Visibility is a non concern for me. There is something to be said for confidence though if that’s how you feel.

First step is to be sure all tension spacers are in place in the cast control knob and palm side plate.

The seats St Croix uses are as good as they get. If you ever have a problem simply contact them.

DC braking is a unique system but not magic, auto pilot or replacement for proper casting technique and skill.

Releasing the clutch via the thumb bar with tension on the reel is harsh and potentially more damaging than letting the drag work as designed.

If you’re land bound tie off to a post with a swivel and pull the line tight several times. Not as effective as trolling out but better than nothing.

The grease isn’t reacting to anything and nothing catastrophic will happen. I’d have to see it to have a strong opinion on what’s going on. Blue Yama lube or equivalent, Cals or Superlube are proven products for reel gears.

“Micro guide” is a term like many others with no narrow definition. It’s used to describe a range of guide sizes from 5 down with 6 being the traditional running guide size. Guides of all sizes come in various grades of quality and durability. It’s not fair or accurate to lump all “micro guides” together. They’re appropriate in some applications and not do much in others. The goal is to build a rod with the lightest guides that will pass necessary connections and hold up to the application. This allows the blank to retain as much as possible of its original properties especially recovery time which Mick regularly refers to as natural frequency. In theory this maximizes sensitivity. Any improvement in accuracy or casting distance is ancillary and often overstated. Most of my personal rods have 4 or 4.5 size running guides. They’ll pass neat Albright knots joining 50# braid and 14# leader no problem. If you’re just experimenting I’d try a rod on a quality blank intended for bottom contact finesse baits where sensitivity is primary concern.