Delaware Valley Tackle

I doubt the spring washers are bad but you can use any similar washers from any reel. As for the gears, unless there’s visible damage you’re chasing ghosts. If you get to the point of having to replace gears Curado, citica or Chronarch E will all fit. I’m pretty sure G series will fit as well.

I believe form follows function for sure. One can give some significance to aesthetics as part of a high performance build though. Categorizing the published comments as “rules” or that “all” agreed is overstated imo but I agree that if you took a poll of experienced rod builders you’d get a consensus agreeing to them. Mick has a point too. A lot of rod builders have their own pet peeves or certain aspects they get so focused on that another detail can get overlooked completely or given short shifts. Experimenting and trying to build a better mouse trap is part of custom building that I for one enjoy. In the course of my own experiments and anecdotal evidence I’ve found that slight deviations from perfection can have little or no impact on real life performance. That’s not to say that striving for perfection is not admirable or important just that it’s a journey not a destination.

I have to agree.

I’ve seen an experiment that showed how little weight it takes for the lever effect of guides on top to torque a rod. I’m building my own jig to demonstrate this for anyone interested. A lot of the fine tuning we do may not be “felt” all the time but that doesn’t mean it’s not worthwhile. Spiral wraps, micro guides, minimalist grips, high modulus blanks, etc.

Actually, pure acetone does not leave residue when it evaporates where as denatured alcohol does due to the additives used to make it undrinkable. Main thing is to degrease and lightly oil with whatever products you choose.

When I say yamalube I’m speaking of any marine grease with a little extra water repellant characteristic. There is no product that will make up for materials and tolerances. My thoughts on reel smoothness: its a subjective issue and every user has their own perception and definition of “smooth” a lot if not most of the “geariness” users refer to is related to the light weight, rigid materials in modern reels. A low weight to stiffness ratio is what makes arid sensitive, and the same holds trust for reels. For example the D series shimano reels were heavy by today’s standard but very smooth over their life by most accounts. I think it’s unrealistic to expect a light, rigid reel to not transmit any feel or sound, especially with some use. Of course there are some high end models that are better at this I just feel like it’s a little over emphasized. youre doing the right thing taking good care of your equipment.

Most important thing is to sure whatever tool you use seats with a perfect fit. When it comes to extracting small stripped fasteners let’s just say if I gave my honest thoughts I’d get a major scolding from Glenn’s staff.

0 & 1 are most used, 2 is handy 00 has its use. Remember some slotted drivers too.

What reels do you have? Some might require a tool that others don’t. A Whiha precision driver set is at the core of my setup. If I ever replace them I’ll get T handles or fatter grips for tight fasteners. If you get stuck on anything or want to pick my brain feel free to message me directly.

I know this is true but I don’t get it. They’re not that different. Unless it’s CYA not taking responsibility for something not yours. Unfortunately there are too many “techs” that do half-fast jobs like that.

What you’re experiencing is completely normal. Regular maintenance will minimize symptoms but not likely eliminate them. There’s no magic product, just use an appropriate lube like you have been. These symptoms are not an indicator of immanent failure either. You’ll be good for a long time.

My first build was a 6’ Med F bait casting rod with too large of guides and wrapped in D thread. I was pretty pleased with myself. As I learned and improved my skills I’d look at it and shake my head. lol I’ve since rebuilt that rod and still use it. I often wish I’d left it original just as a reminder of where I started.

While the side plate is off , make sure the magnets move with the dial and don’t slip.

Go to ereplacementparts.com and get a gen 1 or 2 revo set. I’m pretty sure that fits.

I haven’t compared the current versions but historically I’d place the Tourney Special meaningfully above a Black Max. IMO TS is to PQ as Revo Sx is to Revo stx

I don’t like grease on level winds as it tends to collect debris. Yes keep it clean and oiled. I’ve settled on gear oil as a compromise providing lubrication, staying put and not gumming up.

I’ve been impressed by the Tatula spinning reels I’ve serviced. I’d give them a look if I were in the market. I don’t see the advantage of larger arbor spinning reels unless your using mono/fluoro over 8# test. Line capacity isn’t a problem in bass fishing scenarios.

From that pic it’s not close enough to Daiwa’s design to infringe on a patent imo but either way here it is. I’ve heard that patent infringement is very difficult to enforce too.

You can also search revo schematics on ereplacementparts.com and order parts from there.

Over the years I’ve worked on some Allstar casting rods and found them to have a unique action. A little slower than modern “fast action” rods but the tip was very progressive. It was a soft tip and bent deeper than where modern rods “lock up” but it was progressive and had good back bone. I stripped one of them and rebuilt it with a modern guide train (lighter, better spacing). The result was unique great feeling fishing rod.

From what I’ve seen over the years there’s no discernible difference in build quality between all the brands built on the shared platforms beyond the chosen features combined to make a given model. It’s a mix and match proposition rather than a strict rebadge. Although some comparisons are virtually identical inside.

Turn around varies by season, work needed, parts availability etc. this summer has been extra busy. I offer a reservation service to minimize your wait time. With a reservation cleaning/lube can be turned around in 24-48 hrs. Contact me with your needs and I’ll work it out with you. As for repairing older reels, when parts become obsolete they can sometimes be obtained thru distributors, private sale or salvage reels. It is a challenge though.

Actually the spine has been proven to be the weakest axis as far as dead lift capacity. Consider also the lever effect of the guides which causes the twist not the “spine “ and the fact that rods are used and bend on more than one axis building on the straightest axis makes the most sense. Absolutely, the attention to detail that’s not feasible in a mass production scenario is a major advantage of custom builds.

I like these myself. I often ponder keeping a stock and just giving one away with each rod. I also like the Kigan clip style keeper.

This is right on. And I’ll add that no blank is arrow straight due to the manufacturing process. I’ll return something with dogleg, multidirectional bends but beyond that build on the straightest axis. I doubt century or anyone else will pay international shipping on returns.