Delaware Valley Tackle

I just thought of something else. I’ve been seeing videos on FB of a guy “tuning” reels showing how long the handle can spin and free spool. He set the spool spinning by slapping the handle then pushing the thumb bar. A professional should realize the needless extra stress that puts on a pinion gear. These videos and others like it are smoke and mirrors whether intentional or not. Don’t fall for them like all too many uninformed anglers do. Later

I don’t have much new to add but I’ll chime in. First, better free spool has a positive effect on casting ( mostly in accuracy but some in distance depending on circumstances) but has its limits. 99% of the time properly flushed, oiled stock bearings will cast as far as you can set a hook. Reel tuning and upgrades are largely an enthusiast endeavor that’s why ask questions of customers about their expectations before making recommendations. Jun’s chart can’t be taken as gospel because there are so many variables that affect casting. I don’t dismiss it altogether but view it as an educated opinion. IMO the best bang for your buck in efforts to improve casting/free spool are: Flush and lube stock bearings Super Tune where design dictates Bearing changes Spool changes Last thought, I view ceramic bearings as a high performance mod where longevity takes a back seat. Hence running them dry. I think your conclusion makes total sense.

Ever the optimist. Good for you

Happy New Year to all BassResource.com members , readers , moderators, staff and Glenn with thanks and appreciation for the platform, support and participation. Tight lines in 2026

I encourage new builders to turn the first few rods by hand. It’s PIA but it teaches you how epoxy behaves as it dries. Beyond that, don’t spend a lot on equipment. Cobbling together tools is half the fun.

I almost exclusively buy pre owned reels with a proven track record and features that appeal to me. I also have the luxury of being able to upgrade, diagnose and repair myself if needed. Quality wise you almost can’t go wrong with any established brand in the $100> range. Daiwa and Shimano are obvious leaders in the market but others are justifiable purchases too. The 6-7 year planned obsolescence and discontinuation of parts is a thorn in my side but one we have to live with. I don’t see that or any imagined sell off scenario to stop one from buying a Bates reel to try. They look good on paper and the made in USA factor is appealing. I’ll be servicing one here shortly. I’ll share my impressions afterwards.

Toray isn’t a blank , just a supplier of raw materials. There’s a lot more that goes into a blank. That said, if you’re breaking multiple rods there’s something wrong with your technique or handling practices.

Merry Christmas and Blessings to all from our family to yours!!

Service it the same way you do everything else. No need for anything special. My preference is a water resistant grease like yamalube marine but shimano, super lube or other common recommendations are fine.

Imo “balance” is using appropriate components and design in which all compliment one another resulting is a high performance rod that is pleasurable to fish in various circumstances. Including but not limited to : grip length, diameter and material, seat shape, smallest, lightest guides that will hold up and pass connections, guide train layout (spacing, size progression) etc on an appropriate high quality blank. Unless the client demands it, I will never add unnecessary weight to a rod build. There’s no “right “ way nor spot on a rod where it needs to teeter-totter. You can extend this line of thought to matching rod, reel, line, lures to create a “balanced” system/combo.

All the name brands are good quality at that price point. Looks for sales or push the budget $25 to get an aluminum frame.

To a degree, yes side plates have to come off, exposing the internals of the real. If you want to contact me off-line I’ll walk you through it. If you don’t wanna tackle it you send it in at your convenience. I’ll take care of it.

A worm pawl often presents as hesitation at the point where it changes direction. If the cap isn’t loose and the washer isn’t missing I’d replace the pawl and worm gear as a set. They not expensive parts. Judging from the video I’d be surprised if the worm isn’t damaged. If you need guidance or want it done I’ll be happy to help.

U40 is a water based polymer. It goes on water thin and dries clear. I don’t feel it alters the look or feel significantly and if you don’t like it, it comes of easily. “Good” cork nowadays still has filler in it. Sealing is worth a try imo. It’s either that or maybe refill it at some point. Pick your poison.

In general, bearings are most replaced part on modern spinning reels and that’s due largely to neglect. The biggest issue u see with spinning reels that they don’t get as regularly maintained as casting reels due to be lack of mechanical casting. I’m not arguing or dismissing the Daiwa oscillator issue but I’m not seeing it with alarming regularity. Bail springs aren’t the common issue they once were

If bps doesn’t have the pawl get one for a gen 1 or 2 revo off ereplacement parts.com. You can also try adding a spacer under the cap. Make sure the worm gear is not grooved

Rather than minimal maintenance which indicates a level of neglect, as any reel will eventually need deep cleaning for ultimate longevity and performance, let’s call it interim maintenance. As needed: pull the spool and swab the race of the frame and spool rim. A drop of light oil on spool shaft ends lightly grease the spool pin. Put one drop on each bearing. Oil handle knobs. Keep level wind worm gear brushed clean and lightly oiled including ends. Which products you choose is way less important than being diligent. Interim care enhances and possibly extends service intervals but is not a replacement for periodic deep cleaning and lube.

Fuji SIC guides are high quality components. Use them without hesitation. Anecdotal tales to the contrary most likely are missing details and / or context.

It could be as simple as the condition and/or lubrication (type and amount) in the spool mounted bearings. It could be minor variance in the centrifugal brake shoes.

I’m not sure what I make of this yet. My initial reaction is they’re solving a problem that doesn’t exist. I put the video of the scale pulling the guide in the same category as spool spinning videos. Kinda cool visual but little or no practical relevance in a real life scenario.

Hmm smooth consistency is usually a noticeable benefit with Carbontex drag. If the drag washers are punched with a small hole, check each one against the shaft diameter and open the center up a hair if need be. Same if the outer diameter is too snug of a fit.

I use primarily A, B is easier to work with. I don’t care for the looks of D on bass and fly rods but to each his own on that

If cleaning and lubrication don’t fix the problem, look for the clutch link bar rocking and binding in the slide washers. Replace the washers and you should be good. If you want me to do it and check the rest of the reel send it in at your convenience.

You say you upgraded bearings. If you’re running ceramic hybrids you can expect some sound from them. Otherwise, as previously mentioned oil the brake drum and be sure bearings are clean and in good condition. A bent or damaged spool would affect freespool. I wouldn’t spend much time chasing that at this point.

I can’t speak to Dobyns or either finished rod, but the k2 blanks I’ve built on were extremely high quality and cost more than those finished rods as has been pointed out.