S Hovanec

I have built quite a few ISB822.5s (the RX7 model). It's a pretty nice blank, but I didn't like it for dropshot. It is a great tube blank though.

Yea, my 3.2 oz. Croix SCV and 2.9 oz NFC IM are both serious pieces of s#!t.

Lake Erie dropshotting is what I do most. St Croix is my favorite. My current setup is a 5S610MLXF-B extended to 7'. I just gave my wife my old DS rod which was a 5S69MLXF-B. Prior to that, she was using a 4C69MLXF built as spinning and before that, a 3S69MLXF. I just ordered myself another one....a 5S610MLXF-G. See a pattern forming? I'm addicted to DS rods and normally have at least 3 rigged up on deck when I'm out.

A little gentle heat from a hair dryer may help soften the finish in the guide and make removal easier too.

Epoxy in the guide ring can be removed with an exacto knife or small drill bit twisted by hand. Realignment of the tip, unless it's terrible, it won't affect anything. There's a good chance it's epoxied on instead of hot melt, so it won't move. If it is on with hot melt, there's a good chance you'll booger up the decorative wrap behind the tip by heating it up. I hope you could follow that, I'm not good at explaining stuff sometimes.

I've moved away from using color preserver as I've really become fond of the transparent look of nylon without CP. I use Threadmaster Lite for the first coat to displace air and fill the tunnels. Second coat is Threadmaster regular. If a third coat is needed to touch up some stick-ups or exposed threads, I'll use regular Threadamster again.

I have an old medium Premier....close to 20 years I'd say. I'd call it a MH any day if the week. IMO, you may want to look at the ML for your application.

Sell the 9.9 for a few hundred to help fund the new 20hp!

Yea. I think more are epoxied than not, and not just Croix. More and more, I'm cutting the tubes to remove old tips.

It is not a difficult task, however, St Croix uses some higher temp glue on their tips and you wouldn't believe how many I've fixed after someone melted the blank with a lighter. There are times after a couple heatings, I give up on that method, take my dremel, and split the tube so I don't melt it myself.

Not a fan of Minima guides (metal inserts) and the Minima reel seat is the most uncomfortable thing I've ever had in my hand.

If you can look past the Pac Bay hardware, the blank is worth the price of admission.

Sounds to me like a bad tip. Save some shipping $$ and call Croix. They will probably send you a guide and you can have someone local install it.

I couldn't afford that much acrylic!

Played around with some scraps tonight.

Don't feel bad. I didn't notice it til late last week when I couldn't find one of my posts.

It's for some gear junkie's Sage One.

I like those for heavier rods too.

More fun!

Stripped down SCIV blanks are fugly!! The Rodgeeks natural blank isn't raw, it is a matte clear. Think SCIII from 10 or so years ago or the old Rainshadow RX7 finish. Don't know what you're looking for, but they now offer a few models in a 4pc travel series. http://rodgeeks.com/blanks/travel-series/

I use BFCAT for repairs on conventional casting rods. For builds on spiral casting rods and spinning rods, I use the BLGAT.

OK. Finally played with some acrylic. This metal lathe is pretty fun! BTW, the pictures were taken on my wood lathe after some polishing.

#1 will end up being a money pit The other 2 are your best options. I'd lean more towards #2, because I'm larger than the average bear and a kayak isn't all that appealing to me!!

Braid + 6# leader, no matter where I'm dropshotting.

I love what Tru oil does to the burl corks.