S Hovanec

I can count on one hand how many blanks I've built on that were dart straight. Almost all blanks have a slight curve to them. Most of what I've used has been between 1/4" and 3/4" out from butt to tip when spun. If its bent in a couple different directions, then send it back. Companies are usually good about building on straightest axis, but some just be built however.

If there ever was a fishery that defines the 'bent rod' pattern, Erie is it. 4 miles off shore with 3 boats in the vicinity....catch a 5#er and you can now hit the other boats with a cast.

No bass boat is good in heavy water. Best bet is a multi-species/walleye boat like a Lund Pro-V, Ranger 600 series or Skeeter WX series.

I just put line on it and go fishing!

I prefer full, but my favorite rod has a split Tennessee with the hook keep between the grips. I like it so much I think my next 2 spinning builds will have the same configuration.

I haven't used them yet. They're all still in the bags hanging on the wall! I will say that the rings look very thin compared to Alconite and SiC.

The 6-10 is getting TiSiC K-frames. Up in the air about the grip. My current rod has a split Tennessee grip and I really like it (and I'm not a big fan of split grips.). I might extend it to 7' too. The plan seems to change daily. The Inshore SCV is getting a set of Torsite k-frames and extended to 7'2", that's all I know for sure right now.

I have 2 SCVs, an inshore SCV, an inshore SCIV and 4 miscellaneous others on the rack waiting for me to have the time to build some 'me' rods. The wife has been pretty patient too cause she's getting my old 5S69MLXF once I build the new 5S610MLXF. LOVE the SCVs!!!

My wife works at Gander Mountain in greensburg, but they don't fix rods. I repair rods. If you were ever in the area of West Newton, Belle Vernon or the nearby area, I could pick it up from you and replace the top.

Whereabouts in Fayette Co are you, I'm in Westmoreland. I might be able to help ya out with that repair.

I'm located in West Newton. I work a stones throw from the Yough River and I can see the river from my porch at home.

Hey Zack. Welcome. You're not all that far from me.

Been towing my 17' Lund with my '02 1500 Silverado (3.73 gears) since I bought the boat in 2005. It works just fine. Just don't get the 3.08 gears. Some will tell you they're just fine, but it will constantly be hunting gears when towing.

the last 4 casting rods I've built, I didn't use transition guides. First guide on top, next guide on the bottom. the line touches the blank for a short distance, but I have seen no ill effects (it just looks goofy). In test casting, I see no difference in distance from a traditional spiral.

We call them 'tourons' around here. Combination of tourist and moron.

Can't say I noticed any difference. I haven't laid out any conventional rods since switching to #4 guides, but I'm sure I am saving a couple guides by wrapping on the bottom.

I'm waiting for my SCV dropshot rod to blow up. I whacked it pretty good on the gunnel a couple years ago. I know its gonna happen, just hope its not with a 7# smallie on the other end!

I have a Clarion marine head unit and Polk speakers in my boat. Never had cany issues with it and it sounds pretty good for what it is (jist 4 speakers and a radio). I'm not sure if the model I have is still in production. MP3 CD player/AM/FM radio.

Use the epoxy. If you ever want to remove it, a block of wood and a whack with a hammer is all you need to dislodge it. Probably wouldn't have to hit it all that hard either to remove it from the plastic of the hull.

I tried the DIY route on my 2001 Blazer. Got a Reese hitch at Farm and Fleet for $100. Holes were already in the frame.....should just bolt on....NOT. The hitch wouldn't fit over the frame. It was too narrow. Decided to take it to the hitch shop and paid them to do it. Best $100 spent! It took them 45 minutes of beating on it with whatever they had to get it over the frame. Bad hitch? Maybe. Wrecked Blazer that had frame damage? Could be, I bought it used.

Been 9 years since I had one installed, but I went to a local trailer/hitch place and it was $200 installed for a '98 Blazer. That was hitch and wires. Really can't get a draw bar and ball til you know what height and ball size you'll need. I have collected at least 5 different bars over the years from various trucks, blazers and boat trailers. Drops, lifts, 1 7/8" ball, 2" ball and 2 5/16 ball.

The LE and LX are the same blank material with a different paint job. The LX is 2" longer also. I don't care for the grips or reelseat on the LX, so that would be money saved for me. The other difference is tangle free guides vs Y frames. while I like the tangle free guides, they're not worth the price difference to have to put up with the reel seat and grip, but the extra 2" is nice. And we all can use an extra 2"! Lol

Avid......cause I'm a St. Croix junkie and creature of habit. I HATE change!! St. Croix has never given me a reason to try something different so I can't comment on the rest. I won a Powell Max 7' M/XF. Didn't impress me so I sold it.

Fantastic blank! My favorite rod is a 5s69MLXF with a split Tennessee grip like that.

You won't save any money by building yourself, but I think you'll get a better rod for the money you spend. as for suppliers, Karen at Bingham gets (almost) all of my business. I have to admit to using MudHole on the rare occasion when customers want certain winding checks that are exclusive to them.