S Hovanec

I feel my definition of what makes a good tube rod may differ from others. I'm skewed because I primarily fish the great lakes. I want a rod with a soft tip that has the ability to move the tube for a good hook set once a smallie has clamped down on it.

I have a couple of them for my bigger/heavier drop-shot baits. Given its power, I feel it's a better tube rod.

Use a 2 part epoxy.

Pack the thread every couple revolutions til you get the hang of it. Another possibility is your thread feed is ahead if the wrap. I wrap left to right, so my thread carriage is always to the left of the wrap progression. The thread naturally stacks against the previous wrap because its pulling from the left.

I have an All Star Ti blank I picked up at the ICRBE many years ago out of Andy Dear's trash can sale. Don't remember the model, it's tucked away in my private stash along with a prototype CTS drop-shot blank

I always used a St Croix 5C68MXF for my weightless sticks.

The G2 casting also fits Fuji ECS 16 and 17 seats.

Looks like an American Tackle Vibe with carbon fiber hood.

I love the bottom section on those Judges! That woven pattern is the cats ......

Black and polished silver are being discontinued in Alconite. They are still available through some dealers, but Mudhole chose to not replenish their stocks. I just got an order with some black alconites from another dealer that was dropshipped from Angler's Resource.

I tie mine off on a fence post in the yard and walk it off.

I think I'm going on 8 or 9 years on my braid. I reversed it after 4 years and it was like new line again.

Thanks. That's too easy. I don't like change!

Someone wanted a Salmon rod. Blank: Rodgeeks 8'6" HF 2 pc Seat: Fuji ECS Guides: Fuji Alconite BCKWAG Hook keep: Kigan XLA (TiCh) Butt cap: Mudhole Thread: Makoi dark green nylon Decal: Decal Connection Finish:. Threadmaster

Never know til you try. I built a 6-10" mxf for a guy and it blew up on the first outing. I replaced it, but I had this brand new, pristine grip and seat in didn't want to waste. I cut the rod off about 6" in front of the seat and wouldn't you know it, it fit perfectly in the butt of the same blank. I glued it up and it's the fastest XF rod I've ever felt. It's 8' long now. I haven't wrapped it, but I'm betting it's gonna be a great deep water DS rod.

I tie it to my fence and walk it off. tie the other end on and reel it back on.

Looks like I procrastinated too long, since they stopped selling those blanks

I installed 3 Blue Tops in 2005 when I bought my boat. I got 12 years out of the starting battery and 13 years out of the 2 trolling batteries. Replaced them with Duracell AGMs from Sam's. In the long run, I think the AGMs work out to be cheaper, or at least a wash.

For the $$ spent on shipping it back, a local guy can do it much cheaper. I've repaired many NRXs.

Once cured, nothing I've ever seen will dissolve the thread finish. Heat may soften it, depending on the brand. It's more of a casting resin than an adhesive, Soo it won't stick really well to the ceramic. It'll just pop off if you hit it with a knife.

Vinegar or any solvent won't do anything to that epoxy. Just take an x-acto knife or similar and scrape it out

I would hate to see you send it back for a simple fix like that.

I'm sticking with my theory if wayward epoxy from coating the wraps.

And actually, from that angle, it doesn't look like a grooved guide, it looks like excess epoxy on the ring that the line cut into.

The color of the ring looks more like a Fazlite. All the alconites I've worked with were pitch black.