flechero

Sounds like you just have line twist. If you fish from a boat, troll out your line with no lure on it almost to the end of the spool. (do this whil idleing) let it troll a minute and then reel it in and all your twist will be gone. If you bank fish you can still do it by walking the bank but it's a lot more work. ...lol This will remove the twist and you will be good as new. I do this about every 1-2 fishing days and never have twist problems.

In that case, if you cast in more of a lob fashion vs. whipping the rod you'll be fine. *Most* rods ratings are recommendations of best performance by prostaffers. So along those lines, expect less casting distance and sluggish feel. If you whip cast lures that are over weight, you could break the rod... but with some care in casting you can use heavier stuff.

I've not used the crucials but have only heard good things about them. In general terms, one piece rods are lighter, better balanced and most people would say stronger and more sensitive. The latter two items are as much a factor of the builder as they are blank design but nonetheless valid points, or items of potential concern. I think if you are used to keeping them out on the deck and don't "need" a +T for storage reasons, you'll be much happier with a one piece. One other thing to consider, if you use braid you should consider a mod-fast instead of a fast action, close in work with big fish, braid and vegetation are hard on the equipment and you... a mod-fast will cushion the blow a little bit and still get the job done with no trouble. I know St.Croix makes a handful of one piece flippin sticks but I think they are over $150. (I am only up on blank prices)

LBH, do you remember the thread from several months ago that was like this... there were a bunch of people that jumped in and offered to donate money. Seems like we have one every few months. And each time it's a diffeent bunch of people- which tells me that there would be a big group of people that would donate voluntarily. I think it's obvious to Glenn that many people would like to help out but he's hesitant for one reason or another. For me, it doesn't matter if it's home or work (different providers) or even when I visit family in Dallas... if it's a high traffic time, I click and then I wait. When I'm online real early or real late, it speeds through. As always, add a donation link and I'll be one of the first in line.

Our snow cleared out by lunch time and then another round hit about 5 pm and it's still snowing... we have about 3" on the ground (which is HUGE for this area) and the heavy stuff is still on the way!!!! Sure glad Fork was a few weeks ago!!!!

Talk about a shocker... I live just north of Austin, TX and it snowed and sleeted all morning! We also had temps in the 90's last week. I was in shorts all day yesterday. ...lol Our Church does Easter sunrise service outside!! Brrr!!

Great fish, no matter the location!

KB, Here is the link to a .pdf file with the details of each, print them and compare side by side... there are several differences in each of the models. Should answer all of your questions and give you a feel for whether or not the extra $50 is justified. http://www.purefishing.com/documents/Type_69/HPreels_factsheet_F.pdf -keith edit to add: I'm not a fan of the high speed reels... it wasn't long ago that high speed had the same ipt as today's "normal" speed. I'd rather turn the handle faster than have to slow it way down. I haven't ever seen a lure or presentation that I couldn't perform even at the old abu standard 5.3:1 reels. The regular speed (6.4:1) Revo's are 27.5" IPT which is pretty quick. The Revo 7.1:1 is a blazing 31" per turn! The fish down here don't swim fast enough to warrant that gearing. ...lol

Fun stuff, Matt! About the one that got away remember 2 things about swimbaits- use of a lube is a huge help (megastrike or similar) and a strong, quick hookset. You have to hit them hard enough to get the ML bluegill to pull through her mouth so the hook will stick. It takes more force than any other lure you fish. Stick with it and one of these days your april fools thread will come true.

Muddy, I just want to be clear, I wasn't trying to say or imply anything... just a few words for some of the younger, more impressionable members. It's easy to get caught up in the moment, especially when rods and reels are involved!! -keith

Estate cartridge company- many higher velocity and or heavier shot charged loads. http://glarp.atk.com/2006_Catalogs/EstateCatalog.pdf Look at the "high velocity hunting loads" Yo can buy it from Able Ammo http://www.ableammo.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=190&products_id=73888&osCsid=98345055b68c18dc7525e3c37d8036b9 I like Estate and Able, both great companies

It's none of my business but I would like to caution anyone who can't afford to "buy" an item- this marketing plan is great for their bottom line, not yours. I buy only with money i already have... I won't even use a creditcard (for on-line purchases) if I don't have the cash in hand to pay off the bill. Back in the days of living check to check, i paid more in credit card finance charges in the long run than I did for the original rods and reels bought on the cards... hard lessons learned but worth the sacrifices to live by cash. The old addage- good things come to those who wait- it's true.

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_51802_100002002_100000000_100002000_100-2-2 http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_44529_100002002_100000000_100002000_100-2-2 Muddy, Both of these are offered in 6'6" Med, 2-pc. I'd also check cabela's also just in case they have some sales on right now. I still have one of the Tourney Specials- I think for the price range they are hard to beat! (I use it as a loaner rod and everyone seems to really like it) -keith

even your Kistler will break in a car door or under a guy's foot - I believe that's where Avid was going. I believe that means limited to what THEY determine to be a defect... which is rarely what breaks a rod! from Kistler: (note that even a true defect will cost you $50 plus outbound shipping to get replaced) Full policy:

Genius, Chris! It sure is obvious that he's left handed!

Welcome- you should fit right in with a screen name like knutt! Most of us fall into that category as well. ...lol

The easyview is a great system for the stuff you use regularly.... I installed it on 3 lids of the front deck and can keep all my regular colors of lizards, beavers, flukes, Ikas and senkos.

I would just have her fish standing up from now on.

No, the truth of it is that the guides under is a (potentially) stronger and more reliable set up. In the unlikely event that you could put enough line pressure on the rod to rip guides off- the guides under are already lined up with the direction of force and can carry more weight. With guides up, they "want" to twist and rotate to the bottom. All the spiral wrap does is satisfy the majority of the physics involved. \ It would be like you holding a set of 50lb. dumbells- is it easier to hold them over your head or with your arms straight down at your side? That is an exagerated example of line pressure on the guides in each position, assuming your arms & hands were the guides. Even when the guides are on top, the line pressure is carried by the tip top. Think of it this way, you don't see spinning rods failing all over the place from hooksets. The tip top is just as strong (if not stronger) when carrying line vs holding it up. Another consideration is drag... all the guides or tip top in this case have to do is support 3-10 lbs of cushioned pressure (rod tip's flex is very forgiving, even on heavy rods) Ask every builder on this site (or rodbuilding.org) which they prefer and I'll bet you a 50MG that at least 8 of every 10 prefer the spiral, hands down. (and the "2" probably haven't built a spiral yet) I caution you though, once you try one, you will want to sell all your other rods and replace them with spirals. On the 100:1 chance you don't like it, you can sell a spiral wrapped rod in no time flat in the flea market here.

When set up correctly, the casting is just as good as any custom rod. The spiral wrapped rods are even better for moving baits like crankbaits and spinnerbaits. Most of the torque is eliminated and that greatly reduces fatigue in the user and even reduces some of the likelyhood of rod failure- because the loaded rod isn't torqued as far (or at all) as a guides up rod. Most people are amazed after a day of cranking with a spiral wrap. They aren't worn out like normal.

It will cost you more to have all the guides replaced than it will to buy another rod of the same quality. Most people charge about $10-$15 labor per guide, plus the guide cost. (and I think it's worth the price- I hate repair work) If you just want to replace a couple broken ones, that's a different story... depending on how they were broken off would, for me, determine if I spent the time or money to replace them. By that I mean if they were violently ripped off, I'd pass on it because there is a great chance that the blank was scarred in the process and that would be a broken rod waiting to happen next time you hook up. If you think the blank is ok and are going to try to do the repairs yourself, you can measure the guides to order suitable replacements. Try Mud Hole for the guides- they carry almost everything made these days. (except Batson but BPS doesn't use Batson) The ring diameters are measured in millimeters. ReelMech and Alpster can probably give you some tips on the actual repair (removal of the old thread finish) I have only done a handful of them and haven't found any good tricks yet. ...lol

You should search on this section for some past discussions on blanks and components- there have been some good threads in the past year. Beyond that call the suppliers and get paper catalogs! There is no better way to see and learn about the products. And there is something about a paper catalog around the house that's different than looking on-line. (Batson's catalog is WAY BETTER and more complete than any website about their stuff) Also , you would learn a lot from searching some of these specific questions over at rodbuilding.org You can compare the guides on Batson's web site. Kistler uses Batson components. No one will confirm the blanks but it's widely suspected that they also use Batson blanks... As for blanks, there are many great ones out there. Don't get sucked into "weight only" for blank selection... youre selection of components, cork and handle will have a greater affect on the rod's final weight and balance than the blank will. (assuming you buy a "decent" blank) I like cork best. (and prefer burl over natural) EVA and Hypalon are also good choices. Depending on what you want to do with it, each has a place. I can't give you specs off the top of my head but natural cork, EVA and Hypalon are all very light... also remember that weight behind the reel positively affects balance. I like IMX, GLX, CTS T series, SCIV and SCV. (in no particular order) I have used several Batson blanks and do like them but I haven't used the RX8+ blanks yet. (I want to try them but for that money, I'm afraid to deviate from my list) ...lol Part of the fun in building rods is getting the education, at least I think so. Even if it's a 'whip' to read up on it, information is your friend and it will help you on every rod you build.

There is a St. Croix option that is close... 5C68MXF It's rated Med but it's lure rastings match the BCR. St. Croix's casting rods are generally rated lighter than Loomis and this Med. is probably on par with the Loomis MH. That's all that I know of off hand. I don't have an ATC catalog handy but don't remember one from them. I've lengthened several 6'6" blanks to 6'9" and 6'10", it's easy to do if you have a scrap piece of blank with a matching taper... or a scrap that you can match a taper on. (by building the small side) That gives you some other options. If you cut down a 7' blank you make the action slower, not faster. You can only speed an action by lengthening a blank from the butt... however that costs you weight (but betters the balance). "speed" of a blank is measured by where the deflection takes place... the nearer the tip, the faster the rod. So if you cut the tip, you actually remove the most flexible part and cause the blank to flex further back. And if you cut the back (butt) you've shortened the overall length and caused the flex to be closer to the butt as a measurement which also is slower. Hope that all made sense.

Knowing this video was posted was my motivation to get the new computer hooked up and rollin'. I came home from fork and the wife said "I think we have a problem" So now I'm getting used to windows vista, on a MUCH faster computer. (I saw that the video was up when I checked from work... but couldn't get time to watch it from there) L_B_H, Great job on the video, thanks for all the hard work! I can't even tell you how much fun I had!! Glad you like the new rod. I "pre-loaded" it with mojo for you.

Knowing ReelMech as I do, I'll lay you 50 to 1 odds that it fishes even better than it looks!