hitchhiker

How much are the PQ reels going to be? Thanks

Thanks, the bearings are far from shot so I guess I'll stick with them for this season. That's good advice that I'll follow when I do decide to replace them

6 Fuegos, 4 Revos, 2 Sol, and 2 Pro Qualifiers. I have taken the spool bearings out removed the seals and thoroughly flushed and re-lubed them and right now I'm pretty happy with them. Especially the Revos, but I was wondering if a bearing upgrade would really get them zinging. Plus I've got a lot of time on my hands these days.

I'm thinking of upgrading the spool bearings for my baitcasting reels. 14 reels in total What sort of improvement would I see over the stock bearings with an upgrade to the spool bearings? Is there a big difference between a ceramic hybrid with an abec5 rating and the orange seal abec7's? Is it worth the cost and labor involved? Thanks

I can't comment on the Lamiglas, but I have the Powell 703 Glass and think it's a great rod. It will cast the smaller cranks like Bandit 100 and 200's a good distance, and easily give you good distance and accuracy with the DT's. When you get to the lipless cranks and 1/2oz spinnerbaits, you're really gonna love the way that rod handles that weight range. Nice bend for working the baits and keeping the fish on the line.

If you're starting out with a blank, trimming the tip, spacing the guides out correctly and going truly custom, then you are changing the action of the blank, to your likes and desires. If you are simply adding a tip to a broken rod and think you are ending up with a first quality rod where the tip is 2 inches to the next guide??? If it looks good it fishes good. : You're arguing over a broken rod. I definitely wouldn't buy one that was repaired in such a manner, I wouldn't fish one that I broke while fishing it, unless I totally stripped it down and re-built it.

Powell 703 MEF 7ft 1/8-1/2oz x fast medium power 6-12lb line. It's good for texas rigs, small jigs, senkos, and will work for drop shotting, split shotting, and shakyheads as well. Mine's set up with a Soron STX20 with 15lb power pro and usually 6 feet of fluoro leader, 6 or 8 lb most of the time.

When it comes to color I think that close counts. It's the right retrieve speed, depth, pause, wobble, maybe line diameter, it's the action that really matters. Yes the custom painted baits are NICE, but do you think the fish are going to jump all over it because it is custom painted? If I had an airbrush and artistic ability, it would be all that I would fish, but turning a $4 crankbait into a $30 crankbait isn't for me.

703 CEF MH 704 CEF H

I use the Powell glass rods and really like them. I have the 702M paired with a Daiwa Fuego for small cranks and topwater, a 703MH paired with a Revo SX, using it for lipless cranks, square billed cranks, topwater and spinnerbaits, and a 754H with a Revo Winch with 10lb. that I use for medium and deep diving cranks and making long casts to get the baits down deep. Of the three, the 703 is the most versatile. It handles different applications really well and casts small and large baits well. They are made out of s-glass which is much lighter than regular e-glass. While not as light as a graphite rod, they aren't that heavy. I easily cast it all day. They have a mod-fast taper. To me they have just the right amount of give to make long casts and keep fish hooked. They are made in china, but use quality components, Fuji Alconite guides and Fuji seats, and every one I own is built on the spline of the blank.

By depth as well. If you do use the 3700 size boxes, do you use the hook covers? I can imagine pulling out a long string of tangled cranks. I like the Falcon boxes for that reason, but the capacity is a little low compared to the 3700 boxes.

For skipping under docks and other overhanging structure, spinning gear makes it easier.

Smaller jerkbaits (x-raps) with 8lb sometimes 10lb, weightless worms, deep drop shot.

How about a fat pool noodle? Leaders wrapped around with hooks stuck into the foam and cut to whatever size will fit in your tackle compartment. That's if your on a boat. Otherwise a cd case, not the jewel cases but the nylon wallet type ones with pages. Works for storing spinnerbaits too.

not necessary. you have a very nice reel dont listen to the shimano purist snobs I won't listen, no worries, I just hit the ignore button in my head and kept on reading with the worthwhile replies. ;D Thanks

Can any of these pull double duty for spinnerbaits or topwaters? Either of those will do for spinners, the med rod would probably be better for topwater.

To me, braided line and spinning reels are the way to go. It doesn't fall off the spool in coils like a stiff fluoro or mono, it resists line twist better, it lasts longer, and you feel everything. I use 10, 15 and 20 with short fluoro leaders (4-6ft). Just remember to close the bail manually and give the line a light tug to get rid of any loose coils.

Is that possible? I never thought of that, I'll try respooling with less tension and use some line conditioner on it. Thanks for the replies.

I'm pretty sure it was me casting with the braid. With the reel properly adjusted, spool tension knob, brakes set the way I like. I was reaching 100 ft with a series 3 crankbait. 1/4oz With braid and a heavier say 1/2 oz the line would stick to itself and slow down the cast and drastically reduce the distance. No backlash involved, just short casts.

40 Powerpro on a revo SX and 50 suffix on a revo inshore. Both cast great with mon or fluoro, but I couln't get it with the braid. They were on 7ft mh and heavy GUSA's.

I tried it and the only way I could cast it decently was if I was using a relatively heavy weight while c-rigging. (3/4oz+) Was using Power Pro and tried Suffix in 40 and 50. Any lighter the line didn't come off of the spool smooth enough. It was spooled on tightly. What was I doing wrong. How long a cast are some of you getting with a 3/8-1/2 oz jig? Don't want to give up on it just yet as the line is still basically new. Any tips?

I stripped the paint off of a few old crankbaits and have them down to clear plastic. Thinking of just painting some eyes on them and give them a go. Anybody ever try this and have any luck?

I find myself using a suspending Fat Free Fingerling in citrus or pearl white a lot when it's cold

That's what I've always heard too. On the other hand I had no idea that you weren't allowed to ask people to pay the service fee. Whenever I post something to sell I ask for the buyer to cover the paypal fees and I'll cover shipping (which I consider a pretty good deal). I guess now I'll start asking for shipping fees and not the paypal fees. haha Exactly it's kind of give and take, it all works out in the end (in a perfect world) : Eat the fees and save on shipping. No violations of PPpolicy, and both parties are doing each other a favor.

Although it isn't a spinning rod, I have a Mossyback 803 x-fast action rod and do not like the way it feels to me. Way too fast of a tip where it gets to the backbone of the rod with not enough bend in the rest of the rod. Powell's 683C x-fast seems a little softer which is more to my liking. Not like a buggy whip but just feels better to me. Without a reel they do feel a little tip heavy, but are pretty comfortable with a reel mounted on it. (Fuego) Would the tip heaviness aid in your casting at all? Added tip speed? Again just my opinion, but for the money, I really love my Powells.