RichF

Take a look at the Daiwa Tatula CT. It's cheaper than the Revo SX and casts awesome. The braking system is super simple. I don't think it's necessarily people trying to refrain from using spinning tackle. Baitcasting gear has a heck of a lot more advantages over spinning. There are so many different rod lengths/actions that allow you to fish a wide range of techniques way more effectively than with spinning tackle. I also think you get way more control, casting-wise, with baitcasting. If you strictly throw tiny baits and/or senkos, then yes, all you need is spinning gear. But if not, learning to use a baitcaster isn't a bad idea.

CT Type R...even better!

I just checked the exhibitor list and it seems like it's more geared toward hunting. Is this accurate? I'm about 2 hrs away and thought about going but the lack of a fishing presence may be a deal breaker.

I really want to edit and share the videos I've taken over the past couple years. I have a lot of cool tournament footage to post. I also need to buckle down and really save up for a new boat. I love my old tracker and she's won me a ton of money but I think it's time for an upgrade.

I'm from NY so that's where I do most of my fishing. I get your concern with the clear water but don't know if it matters a whole lot. I flip with 20lb flouro and a heavy rod around scattered grass, wood, and rock, 50lb straight braid in the thick stuff. My father flips 99% of his time on the water, always with straight braid, no matter the cover or water clarity. He does awesome and will tell you the bass don't care. I used to do the same thing and didn't have any issues. I just changed a bit because I like the way flouro handles and its abrasion resistance. It also gives my baits a different fall rate.

One of those greenies just topped the 6lb mark. Got him on a 3/4 oz jig with a 4in chiggercraw trailer. The smallmouth was caught my last trip (Thanksgiving day) of 2016. 6 lbs 2 oz on a 3.5in coffee tube.

Personally, I prefer braid over mono but since you're just starting out with a baitcaster, I would say switch to mono since it's much cheaper to replace. Once you get more comfortable with your reel, you could go back. But if you like the braid and don't mind the extra replacement cost, then stick with it. It's much better for fishing in vegetation. I'd also try heavier braid as well. I won't use less than 30lb on baitcasting gear.

The new Tatula CT's come in an 8:1 and are awesome for the price (can be found for under $100). I have one for pitching. I would definitely switch your frog rod out for a MH (maybe trade with your crank rod). Also, depending on the type of swimbaits you throw, you may wanna consider using a heavier rod for that as well. I use a 7'6 heavy for 4.5 to 6.5 inch hollow bellies, rigged with big belly weighted hooks. If I'm using smaller swimbaits with a jig head, I'll drop to a 7' MH.

Welcome to BR! Most look good. I'd switch your spinnerbait and flipping reels. I prefer a faster reel when I'm flipping and pitching. A medium powered rod is a bit on the light side for frogs too. I use a 7'3 heavy but a medium heavy with braid would do fine. I'd also consider throwing your cranks on a medium or med light. You'll have a lot more fish come unbuttoned on trebles with a stouter rod.

I've had a few cool things happen on the water. I was flipping a huge milfoil bed on the St. Lawrence River during a tournament and got caught on some 60lb braid. While hand-lining it in I felt something heavy on the end which turned out to be about a 6 pound smallmouth! It jumped right next to the boat and spit the tiny hook/6in wacky rigged senko before we could get the net under her. I came across a 3 pound largemouth belly up that looked really fresh, like it just croaked a few minutes prior. I rolled it over and it had a huge crappie lodged in this mouth sidways. I pulled the crappie out and the little sucker darted off. I held the bass upright for a minute and he took off as well! Last summer I was fishing a small river in my boat and had a black bear pop up out of the water about 20 yds from where I was, hopped up on shore and ran off into the woods. Scared the crap out of me.

It's a good thing for us anglers that those suckers are so greedy!

I appreciate that!

I'll choose a jig to punch with over the typical stuff anytime I can get away with it. Less working parts = more flips/pitches/punches. I imagine they are just like SK's slither rig, which I have tried. I like not having to add so many pieces to the rig so these get two thumbs up in my book.

HA! It's definitely a first for me. I want to upgrade from my Tracker 170 in the next year or two though, so when I see gear I want (but don't need) I'm trying to tell myself to stash that cash away instead. We'll see how long it lasts....

I don't know about traps on a jig/worm rod. The other 3 baits would be fine but the trebles would make me nervous. If you're good about adjusting your drag on the fly (like when you're fighting fish) you might be able to get away with it.

x2! Crucials are great rods for the price. They have great sensitivity and definitely won't feel dead in your hands.

If the tip has any softness at all I'd use it for dock skipping jigs. It would be good for pitching too, especially if you're in tight cover.

I got the 6.3:1 when the deal was first revealed. I love these reels. I also have a 7.3:1 on one of my jig rods. The 5'er was tempting even though I already have an E5 for deep cranking duty. I talked myself out of it though

If you can punch effectively and not use a bobber stop, I say more power to you! That's one less thing you have to buy and rig. I just know I'm not as efficient without it, especially in the specific conditions I listed earlier. As for the snell...eh. I get the concept. I tried it and it did work like it's "supposed" to. I've just used a palomar forever and didn't see a drastic hookup improvement from the snell.

x2 on the 6th sense stops

I went from a heavy fast action stick to a heavy mod-fast for that reason and think it made a significant difference. I also changed my hookset from the typical jig/flipping "crank down and crack" to more of a sweeping upward pull which has put a ton more fish in the boat for me. But like everything bass fishing related, it's really about personal preference and what you feel comfortable with. I find a bobber stop to be pretty necessary especially when I'm punching thru matted vegetation that has blown up into cattails, reeds, and pads. It keeps my bait in one tight compact unit, not allowing the weight to disconnect from the rest of the rig and wrap around stuff/drop into holes before the bait does.

To the guys getting blowups but not hooking up - Are there pike or pickeral in your ponds/lakes? I fish frogs a lot and have a ton of success doing it. Nearly every time an actual bass hits, I get him. Pike and pickeral are a different story though. They will blow up hardcore on my frogs but RARELY hook up. Their splashes are almost always much bigger/louder than any bass but I think their intention is to actually "stun" the bait not eat it. This could be a big part of the problem.

I really like a moderate-fast taper on my punch rod. Having that little give really does help reduce tearing the hook out of the fishes mouth.

Spro bronzeyes are my favorites. Live Targets are pretty nice (super soft). Not a huge fan of Ish's Phat frog though. Don't get me wrong, they're amazing walkers. The problem for me is their profile. It doesn't leave enough hook gap so it can be a bit harder to hook up. You can try bending the hooks up a little to open that gap which helps...but then you don't have a very "snag proof" frog.

I agree that experienced anglers will notice a big difference in more expensive gear. I do however think there is a limit. I don't feel a whole lot of difference between my Legend Extremes and Kistler Heliums (sensitivity-wise) but one is about $150 more. Once you get past a certain price-point, the differences become awfully subtle.