Hooligan

It's gear ratio in conjunction with spool diameter that determine IPT. Think about it: 1:1 you have only one revolution of the spool in one handle turn. 5:1 you have 5 spool revolutions in one handle turn, you have 5 times the line brought in in the same crank of the handle. As far as more torque goes it most assuredly does. Any time you have a lower gear ratio you are transferring greater amounts of torque through the gear.

I'm not going to be much help, but if you ever have the chance, get your hands on a Loomis Bronzeback SMR750SSP. It's the most awesome little stream smallie rod that's ever been conceived. In a more "real" answer you might try looking at lite, versus ul, you may have more options in terms of length and action.

You're completely right, I worded my response incorrectly.

How so? One would think that lower gear ration when fishing high resistance baits like a DD22 is going to be less effort, and it will wear less on the reel over time. Not only that, but your gear ratio is going to determine the IPT. I'm not coming up with the same math as you are, showing closer to a 5" difference between the two. If that's the case, when you've moved the bait the entire 10', the 7.1:1 will have moved 50" further than the 6.4:1. That's a pretty substantial difference.

/agree The other thing that has me enthralled is the Thump Worm. Seeing it move in the water was pretty cool. I love how the tail undulates.

Didn't read all the answers, but from your description alone I'd just about guarantee there's a huge fish density in the pond, and that 3lb fish is about as big as you're going to see them. A two acre pond can only support so much biomass.

Part of the reason I tried it in the first place is because of its knot strength. They were testing it for break strength and it broke at the knot once or twice, but it was above the test rating. I've not had any problems with knots, fray, or anything else. I'll keep fishing it for darned sure.

Most shallow and medium cranks I fish on a Curado E7. Definitely like my winch or E5 for deep cranks like DT16 and DD14/22.

Most used would be Cumara 7-2 M/Stella and 6lb YZ ultra soft.

Thanks for the replies. Ebay has them going anywhere from $220 to $380 new and used. I may as well just keep it and play with it.

I'm not a big Daiwa guy, let alone knowing anything about the JDM reels. I picked up an Alphas from a guy for peanuts, and wonder whether I should sell it, or keep it and use it. It's a 103L. If I were to sell it, what would a reasonable price be? It's 9/10 look and 10/10 mechanically. Thanks in advance.

Bought a bunch of hardcores, and 3d flats when I was in the store today. Pike love the flats, and I've had pretty good luck on the hardcore.

I think "game changer" is a little drastic, but in terms of it being a pretty good top water? I'd say there is better than average chance that it will be.

You pretty much said it all right there. Seriously though, they're a decent lipless. I fish three kinds; Spots, Ratl Traps, and Red Eyes. All three fish a little different and all three have earned their place.

The flicker shad was developed specifically for walleye trollers, Phishin is dead on. Parsons talked a little about it last weekend.

That's a good point. It may well be stiffer in lighter test. I haven't felt anything under 10lb in the Stren. I'm fishing 15 and 12 and it's noticeably softer than Invizx. And I totally agree that Invizx doesn't get brittle or memory like a almost every fluoro I've fished.

I've got two reels spooled with it, and I'd really have to disagree. The Stren has performed very well, much better than I'd initially thought. It's not even close to the hardness of Invizx, and retains its strength like Abrazx. More and more, I'm thinking that I'll go to the Stren as a mainstay, depending on its overall durability. It has all the qualities I'm looking for in a line: great knot strength, it's easily handled, it isn't as hard as other fluorocarbon, it casts very well, and it's reasonably sensitive. The more I fish it, the more I like it. Considering it's under $10, too, it's worth it. That all said, I've had it spooled for a short time. It remains to be seen what the longevity is and how well it performs over its lifespan. All things considered at this point in time, the only line I've liked more is Tatsu.

Love the spin jig for spots and smallies. The casting jig is nice, too.

I travel frequently for my job; I did 157k miles on United last year. 1. Don't wait, you'll often get stiffed on ticket price, plain and simple. 2. Don't use travel sites, go directly to the airline, you stand a chance at getting a better fare because airlines don't publish "sale" fares on travel sites. 3. If you must use travel sites, search only once. Don't search the same flight multiple times on the same site. They use cookies to track the searches, and thus generate a higher fare. It's been on the news a couple of times, as well as confirmed by a couple of the "urban myth" type sites. Search once, compare Expedia, Travelocity, and Kayak then go directly to the airline.

1/8-1/4 ounce hair jigs, small jigs like the Bitsy, and the like. I use it for small spinnerbaits like the Pond Magic, too. I'll use it for dragging tubes as well.

Last year it was all about the Rage Chunk and Craw, I caught probably 10 fish on those trailers to 1 on anything else. I fell in love with those fool things...

Yeh. KVD said, at one point, that all he does is clean, lube and change the drag. He may change bearings but it isn't a priority. I've heard the same from several other pros through the years.

Tatsu or Invizx. Edit: Stren Fluorocast. I forgot about it when I posted this. I'm really impressed with it thus far.

carves easily with a sharp utility blade. i think you'll have problems with melting if you try a rotary tool. Not really. You can use a router on it, as well as the Microplane.light passes high rpm and you're golden.

SHould have fought him on it, really. I know that in NE they're legally bound to sell it at the tagged price or lower.