Team_Dougherty

try one of these http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0000844010095a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&QueryText=transducer+mount&N=4887&Ntk=Products&Ntx=mode+matchall&Nty=1&Ntt=transducer+mount&noImage=0

That is a good idea. I do not subscribe to either of those. I do have another tip for you guys here though. I really recommend using wheel chocks when loading and unloading a boat when the tow vehicle has a manual transmission. I do not feel parking brakes and leaving the transmission in gear with the motor off is enough. I have never had much trust in parking brakes and sometimes engine compression is not enough on a steep ramp. If you do not want to use wheel chocks turn your front wheels all the way to one side. This way if your vehicle does roll back the worse you get is a bent trailer tongue and not a vehicle under water.

A little trick to save your clutch when you pull up the ramp. Put a wheel chock(s) behind your rear tire(s). Attach them to your bumper with a rope that is not to long to let your trailer wheels hit them when you pull up the ramp. The chock(s) will keep your truck from going backwards when you take your foot off the brake. This will help save your clutch when you try to get all that weight, that is moving backwards, going forward. The ropes will pull the chocks up the ramp so your trailer tires will not hit them. When you park to tie your boat down do not forget to remove the chock(s).

you could try craigslist.org to see if someone in your area has a garage for rent.

Try one of these http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0000844010095a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&QueryText=transducer+mount&N=4887&Ntk=Products&Ntx=mode+matchall&Nty=1&Ntt=transducer+mount&noImage=0

Yes I do have that trailer it works very well. The Price was right. at the time S&H was $9 From Harbor Freight. Now it is $12. Here is a post with post with pics. http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1128355468

Oh yea. you can do that. I have two six gallon tanks in my boat for when I go to bigger lakes.

A good rule of thumb is that an outboard will burn 10% of it's HP rating in fuel per hour at Wide Open Throttle. So that means your 35 HP will burn 3.5 GPH at WOT so your 6.4 gallon tank will last 1.8 hours at WOT. Your run time will increase, dramatically, at lower throttle settings. You will have to figure out how fast your boat goes at WOT to figure out a range.

Do not do it. It can cause the aluminum to erode away.

If the battery is just being used to start your outboard and your outboard has a charger a trickle charger will be sufficient to keep the battery topped off between uses. Just make sure it is automatic and will not over charge your battery. If the battery is also powering your trolling motor and/or your outboard does not have a charger and/or if your outboard only has a 5 amp charge circuit you will need to get a charger of at least 10 amps to charge it. again make sure it is automatic so you can leave it hooked up when not in use.

Why do you have to replace it? Does the bulb burn out? it is a post light or a low profile unit? Can you change the bulb to an LED equivalent?

PDB, I would work closely with the dealer who sold you the boat. They should be able to get you the best prop. You should load your boat with how you will fish it most of the time. You should include full fuel tank, live well and other items you will carry. Then the dealer should loan you two props. One, one size smaller and one, one size bigger than what came with the motor. Take your boat out with the standard prop and run it at full throttle . Check the tach. are the RPMs in the max range for the motor? If it is that is the best prop for your setup. If the RPMs are below the max try the smaller prop. This will increase your hole shot and get your motor into the correct RPM range. Are The RPMs over the max RPM range. Switch to the bigger prop and try it again. In this case going to the bigger prop will increase your top end speed. After you run this test you may need another size prop, smaller or bigger, to get your motor in the correct RPM range. This is where your dealer should work with you on letting you try a few before you buy one. This will only work if you are using the same kind of prop. Meaning material. a 15" aluminum prop will perform different that a stainless steel one of the same size. If the boat has an aluminum prop now stay with aluminum ones for testing. If you want to change to stainless all prop tested should be stainless. Good Luck, Paul

I have the hustler prop on my evinrude. they work well. The hub just slips into the prop and the whole unit goes on just like a regular prop. It can be tough to get apart after it has been on the motor for awhile. A good hit on the hub with the wooden handle of a hammer frees it up.

My Crestliner

I knew there was something out there. http://uscgboating.org/recalls/mic_database.htm

Depending on the age. the first 3 letters of the HIN identify the manufacture. I think that started in the early 70's. If the boat is older than that it that wont work.

I would contact these guys http://www.twincityoutboard.com/ they quoted me $600.00 for the parts to put the factory trim and tilt on my 1990 40HP Evinrude. The installation was simple.

I understand no problem. we are all adults here this is just a discussion on what he can do to solve his problem. I know my car insurance will cover any trailer I tow. While I am towing it. My home owners covers it in the garage. I have separate insurance for the boat on the water. When he files for the homemade trailer he will have a title showing he owns it. Who will ever know what the guy he buys it from did to get it. There maybe no "legal" way to get it done if the guy does not have the title for the trailer. Does Washington DC even title trailers? Just like some states do not title boats. PA does, Title boats, only over a certain length and after a certain model year. I know some states do not if the trailer is under a certain capacity. I am just offering suggestions

The only"legal" issue he has is using his other trailer tag for the trip home. What are the chances of him having any issue? Filling out the form to get a title for homemade trailer when he gets home is not a problem. That is why they have the form. Looking at the pictures there is a tag on the trailer already. How did the current owner get that?

Do you have another trailer? use the tag from that. Once you get it home. apply for the homemade trailer title posted above. I have a pop-up and two boat trailers and only one tag. i just move it to the trailer I am using at that time.

Check to see if your state will allow the titling of home made trailers. If it does buy it. Take it home a register it as home made. In PA, where I live, this is a very easy and common practice. Edit to add After a quick search Virgina does. here is the form. http://www.dmv.state.va.us/webdoc/pdf/vsa22.pdf

I am not sure about "fluxing". I am sure that some trolling motors that have have electronic speed controllers, not the ones that have resistors to control speed, the multiple on/off cycles in a second can cause "static" on depth finders.

ballpark $50 ~ 200 but it depends on size and brand. you can get an 75AH at walmart for $50 the 105 AH AC Delco I have is $150 if you get it from a GM dealer. I got it for less when K-mart sold them.

You may experience interference, when the trolling motor runs, on your depth finder if it is hooked up to the same battery as your trolling motor. I do not think you will have to worry about running down your starting battery with your depth finder during a regular fishing day. A good read on batteries http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm

Ditto. m27mf is what I have. m30mf if you want bigger.