Dave P

You can use a small 12v battery like for a lawn mower or motor cycle, afik. They don't use much juice.

There is something about the wobble head that gives it some kind of different action, IMO. That and the bait profile is the key. That hook is the real deal. I have lost two heads this year by burying that hook into something big and wooden that didn't move.

On a hardhead and crawl it across the bottom like a slow moving crank. Sooner run is a good color to start out with and I like to run a rattle, too. The biggest fish I caught on it this year was only about 3.75 but he knocked the ever loving snot out of it.

Maribu is your best bet for that purpose. There are other, better purposes for pheasant feathers. PT nymphs, etc.

Menards. 149 bucks.

I have two of those Procasters. They have been used hard for two years, zero problems! Hope the magforce is as good!

Revive X is what you want. This retired GI swears by it. Also read and FOLLOW the washing instructions.

Not a good day to go out. There was a tourney on Raccoon and I'm glad we decided to stay home. If it's this windy about the only thing I've had any success with is a reaction bait that you can throw cross or down wind so you can keep some contact with it. You are going to have huge difficulties keeping in touch with a bottom contact bait in this kind of wind.

Up until last week we were doing OK on traps and 4 inch swimbaits. Before that, squarebills were the ticket. But, like you, there was no real "fall bite". We just got lucky in finding the shad and figuring out something that would work. They spent about 5 minutes in the areas where they were "supposed to be" and then went where they wanted to go...a lot of guys never figured it out.

X3

When I was younger, a Hula Popper in the inside of my wrist. I was trying to be cute and flip it up over the moss along the bank. Grandpa drove it through with needle nose pliers and cut the barb off. Bactine and a band aid. We carry heavy cutters in the boat for this purpose. Almost got it this year when a crankbait fish decided he needed to flop when I went to lip him and get him out of the net. Two of the hooks went as far as you can go without going past the barb. Too close.

I have a glass rod to throw deep divers and a graphite stick to throw squarebills and shallower stuff. I feel the need to "feel" the shallower runners a lot more to work them through the timber, than feeling a deep diver digging the bottom. The hookup to land ratio on the glass rod (for me) is phenomenal.

I wouldn't hesitate to pick up another BPS PQ either. I have "name brands" as well. It depends on what I'm buying and what I'm buying it for and who has a better price with the features I want.

Swimbaits that mimic the bait size. Right now, the 4 inchers seem to be working good. Don't be afraid to use the pre-rigged ones. Squarebills work for me in some lakes, others the crank bite is definitely off. Look stupid shallow first and cover water. You will not find big schools of bass (at least I haven't) but if you cover the water, you will bump into them and once you figure out what they are using, you can repeat it all over the lake. For example, last weekend it was all about rock. Not rip rap, not slab rock, not rock wall or concrete, rock about the size of your fist or smaller. Almost gravel. Nothing doing with wood unless it happened to be near the right rock. Find it and you would get bit. Ignore it and you are hauling water. Oh, and it had to be on the East side of the lake...Great bite until the wind picked up and muddied up the water along the bank and that killed it.

7 foot Medium fast or XF. It doesn't matter much to me either way. IMO, this rod allows you to do a little bit of everything finesse. I have braid on my reel now, but I prefer 8lb. flouro. I like to use circle hooks. Some people don't. 4 inch worm or "shad" and about 1/4 oz weight covers most of my needs.

Whatever you ultimately decide to use (personally, it would be some kind of bait you can keep moving if they guy moves that quickly) pay attention to where he's casting. If he's moving fast I guarantee there are places he's not hitting and there are angles you can hit that he cannot. Concentrate on those areas and throw something that allows you to keep up the pace and you WILL catch some fish. Look at my avatar. I am a back boater a lot of the time and I have outfished the front of the boat several times this year.

I've only had BPS house brand rods. Excellent value for the price. I've only heard good about Cabelas rods.

At least 2 extras if it works good. If it's an experiment, not until and unless it works.

You can go lighter (1/8 is as low as I've gone), but you will want a tail wind or cross wind or no wind. You will not like throwing it into a wind. At all.

Glacier gloves fingerless. When it gets really cold, wool fingerless. And hand warmers...

I have 4 that I use religiously. Maybe 50x per year and have had zero issues. When you get them dialed in, they will throw in the wind just fine. It helps to keep the cast low to the water. I also use a Quantum one remaining Shimano and three Daiwas. I had two other Shimanos and liked them just fine but after they got destroyed after flying out of the boat and onto the highway, I'm glad I went with PQs. Will buy more.

A little farther south than Indy, water temps in the mid to lower 50s. The shad have been very shallow. VERY shallow. It's hard to get a consistent bite there hasn't been any consistent schooling action, but we have been scratching out limits by using plastic swim baits and traps running them on flats with the shad schools and around rip rap. Also pitching creature baits around the rock.

Depending on the size of your rig, it's hard to go wrong with Ma Deuce. Plus, it will go through absolutely anything.

No kiddin'. I'd buy the lot for that price! But, then again I like PQs!

Fleece inner liner, gortex outer if it's damp. Normal cold weather I wear my duck hunting gear.