Jerkbait22

Throw more jerkbaits and crankbaits than lipless but jackal tn70 or LC LV500. Ghost Minnow and craw colors.

Thank you. Hopefully others add their experience as well. Let’s see if I can even hold off on purchasing until then

Can you let me know what you think of it when you get it in and when you get it out on the water? I’m in the northeast and currently under ice.

I picked up their new flat side crank the skm. They built it to be a cross between a shad plug and flat side crank. I fish a lot of pressured lakes and ponds where I think it could excel.

I almost got a viper tiger sonic side for spring but was able to hold off. I did however buy a bunch of new raid crankbaits instead.

I think Megabass makes a superior moving bait rod so I would wait for the new Levante to come out. I personally have a bunch of destroyers that I love for treble hook baits. Javelin, Otomat from the previous gen and a Z Crank Elseil P5.

Thinking of grabbing one for all around finesse techniques like Neko, Ned, drop shot. Possibly small paddle tails as well like okashira head and spark shad or 1/4oz jighead and spark shad. Not seeing much feedback on the rod other than a YouTube review that was posted recently. Anyone fishing this rod?

Get some Deps evoke squarebills instead. I have a couple of the Nishine never caught a fish on them.

My two main deep crank rods last year were the destroyer javelin (not p5, previous gen) for 12-18 feet divers and then the new glass composite expride 7’10 heavy for the super deep divers. I’m still attempting to dial in the magnum deep divers on my lakes but I caught many fish cranking on both rods last year. The javelin was a little better at clearing baits from vegetation since it’s graphite. The expride is a little more forgiving when loaded up due to the glass but less sensitive. I do think rod length matters, because it gets you a little more distance which in turn helps the bait get deeper since it’s only going to achieve max depth about halfway through the retrieve.

I have the mark 56 and it’s a special rod for treble hook baits in that 1-3oz range. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy one. It’s the absolute perfect tiny Klash rod. I also throw other glides on it up to 3oz like the kgb Chad shad. I think it should be fine to fish the pd chopper (I picked up some too over the winter) with an exposed hook. You may want the beefier monstrous if you’re going to fish the trailer weedless. No experience with the monstrous but the mark 56 is a no brainer you will not regret it for that 1-3oz hardbait range.

Does anyone know if they are honoring store credit from ALF? I have about $100 in store credit from previous trade ins. I tried punching the code into the site a month or two ago when they launched the new site but it didn’t work. Not sure if that’s been updated or what the situation is.

I wonder if you got mine then. Was in really good shape, traded it in late summer last year. Think it was still available as of the fall.

In regards to the braking learning curve, do you just mean that it takes longer / more space to slow down with the added weight of boat + trailer?

Thanks, will give it a watch!

It’s a grand Highlander rated to 5,000lbs for towing so don’t think there should be any issue with a 14’ aluminum boat.

Recently bought a car with a towing hitch, have always car topped a kayak or canoe previously. Looking to buy my first boat now. Garage is 18 foot deep, the door is about 7 feet wide. I’ve been told I will need 2-3 extra feet for the tongue of the trailer to fit, so I’m thinking something at 14’ should fit. I looked at some Jon boats on bass pro that were advertised as 4.5’ in width. How much extra width do I need to compensate for the trailer, if at all? Also if there is any recommended reading for how to back up a trailer, I imagine that is going to be a learning experience as well. Hopefully I won’t be putting on too much of a show for the neighbors trying to get everything lined up as I back it into the garage the first few times.

I think profile is a much bigger factor. Once I get on a bite then I will sometimes experiment with color to see if it makes a difference. Color can sometimes help dial in a bite that already is happening. Pay attention to seasonal patterns to clue you into baits/profiles and then once you start catching fish you can play around with color. I also match color to conditions - clear water blue skies then I go with something more natural. Murky water and/or cloudy conditions go with something that stands out more. There is a sliding scale there.

Was it a P5 FMJ or the previous gen? I sold them my previous gen FMJ so I could get the P5 version. I haven’t really put the new one through its paces yet but the older one was fun punching milfoil and hammering fish.

You will end up with a whole box of them when you see how productive they are. I would add a +1 in the regular or junior size too.

Yup I picked up that one along with a few others.

I think blade color matters sometimes as much as skirt color. I like a gold blade like on the Brett’s bluegill color for cloudy conditions. The matte blade on green pumpkin seems to be better for bluebird days. Then mix in your whites. Black/blue when it’s stained or if you’re looking for a big fish (just seems to be a big fish color).

Silent, supposed to have a killer wobble though like torm mentioned. Megabass claims the strong wobble allows it to get bites in open water. Looks like a fun bait and cool concept if nothing else.

Heard about it being a replacement for the baby 1 minus, that’s kind of what I was hoping for.

I think buying and trying new gear is half the fun. Learning new techniques and trying different things, staying or being ahead of the curve can lead to some of the best days out on the water.

I have more baits than I could ever fish in multiple lifetimes. However each winter I buy more baits 😆. It’s the only cure for cabin fever!