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Sqvedgis

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Everything posted by Sqvedgis

  1. The voltaeus is virtually unbreakable, but it's a bit whippy. If you get one make sure it's the MHF and don't expect it to excel in any finesse/bottom contact fishing. It Should be good for moving baits though. My 18 y/o bro is in the same situation with you and he grabbed the 7' MF and it jumps around enough to be a pretty decent open water shallow-medium crank rod. But like you said, it's no loomis.
  2. I'm going camping at Trailside park in Parry Sound in a couple of months. There are a few smaller lakes that surround the camping grounds; Linger Long Lake Vair Lake, and McDonald Lake. I was just wondering if anyone is familiar with these lakes or any others close by in that region that have any kind of decent fishing and what are those fishing opportunities? What type of fish can be found up there? Thanks!!
  3. I managed to grab the BPS Xtreme MHF spinning on clearance for $60. If you can find one it's the way to go...
  4. I was adjusting the brakes on my Curado E5, and one of the red clips flew off and into the lake. Does anyone know what I can do to replace it? Thanks.
  5. Funny... I have the 6.4:1 for about a year and would get a 7:1 if I could do it over... I'm finding that as I put more specific combos together I'm finding less purpose for the mid-range speed, I either want fast or slow
  6. I reel with my left with spinning and my right with casting gear and I couldn't imagine any other way. I never thought about it, but if I had to make an educated guess I'd say that: A) it may have to do with the weight of a spinning set-up hanging under the rod, and casting is more of a balancing act on top of the rod while palming & typically my spinning gear is used with lures that require holding the rod tip higher with more of a constant jigging, whereas with casting gear my tip is usually closer to the water with a pull & crank type retrieve. I may be out of my mind so I'm gonna play around with it later today and try and put my finger on it
  7. Yes, but not as many as most of us have. Cranking rods are much softer (i.e. medium action, medium/moderate tip). The reason is that with a treble hook you increase you're chance of hooking the fish if there is a delay from when the fish takes the bait, and when you feel it. It allows the fish to get the hooks deeper in its mouth so you can get a better hookset, and the rod has more flexibility to fight the fish. It the rod is too stiff you can easily pull/rip the lure out of the fishes mouth, or react too fast. For bottom contact or finesse baits it is ideal to have a much stiffer rod and softer tip so that it takes minimal effort to create movement with your lure. A stiffer rod is usually more ideal in heavier cover as well to move the fish quickly for the thick stuff.
  8. I'm looking at a few different models for working 5-7" Senkos through moderate cover. I'm struggling with which model between the BCR803, BCR853 or BCR893. I'm going to pair it up with a Curado E7. The 893 seems like overkill (7'5") and is a bit heavier, but maybe I'm missing something. Is there any specific application where each length has its' own strengths, or is it just feel and preference? Or is there another model that I have overlooked? Thanks in advance
  9. Personally, I like it, but not nearly as much as I like my Curados. but for that price it sounds like a good deal.
  10. I grabbed a BPS Pro Qualifier 7'6" HXF on sale for $99. Its the only rod in that series with the split grip which I like on a flippin/pitchin stick personally. I think it's a great option in the price range.
  11. I have a premiere and a mojo. I like them both, but I prefer the handle on the premiere. I use the mojo spinnerbait rod so sensitivity is not a huge deal because with fast moving baits there aren't really any subtle nibbles. Same with the premiere, I use it for shallow cranks, wake baits and jerkbaits. I live in Canada, and it's not the same small jump from the premiere to the avid for us. I believe in the US it is a $50 jump, here it is a $100 jump. >
  12. I keep hearing that the GLX is the benchmark for which all other rods should aspire to be. However, I also hear time and time again that they break too easily. Is the trade-off worth it? Is it that much better than the Mossyback series? What are the pros and cons of the recoil guides? I'm specifically choosing between the BSR852 or BSR802, but now I need to know if it's even worth it to step up to the GLX. I know there is a lifetime warranty, but is there still a fee to use the warranty? Thanks
  13. I usually fish a 1/16 or 1/8 shaky head with a zoom trick work, and I wacky rig either a 4" or 5" Senko
  14. Ok, So I bought the new stradic CI4 yesterday, and now I have the bigger decision to make. I'm not sure I want to go so far as to get the Lommis GLX, mainly because it is tough to find and I'd have to order it without handling it first. So I'm looking in the next step below. I've looked at the: BSR852 MossyBack 7'1" MXF DSR822S 6'10" MLXF Cumara 6'10" or 7'2" MXF Crucial 6'10" or 7'2" MXF St. Croix LTBS68MXF or LTBS69MLXF AVS68MXF or AVS69MLXF (is there a justifiable difference or reason to go with the Legend over the Avid...this one is for you Roadwarrior) As you can see, I'm having trouble deciding between the 6'8" to 7'2" length and M or ML... I can't decide which length or action is optimal... If anyone has any advice/breakdown of the pros and cons or specific strengths of any of these traits please share it with me. I'm planning to use this rod mainly for wacky rigging and light shaky heads, but I would like to also be able to use it for drop-shotting. If it comes down to it, I'm willing to choose two if there is a huge difference on the rods effectiveness in different depths, cover/structure, and even if there are any of these options which would also do well with Smallies and/or Walleye. I don't want to drop the ball on this because like I mentioned in my last topic, this is a "reward" to myself. Thanks!
  15. Grab a BPS Pro Qualifier BC reel, and for the rod check out either the indestructible Shimano Voltaeous, or the Clarus
  16. My favorite worm for shaky head!
  17. I don't know if Dick's has clearance bins like BPS, but if they do, look in there. I usually pull some decent small crankbaits and spinnerbaits out of those bins. If you have any jigs or grubs from your walleye fishing you can use those for bassin'. When all else fails me out on the water I can always count on a grub on a 1/8 - 1/4oz jighead catching me something. Grab a bag of zoom trick worms for shaky head fishing and pick a cheap pack of 1/8 - 1/16oz shaky head jigs. Grab a bag of Yum dingers 5" and a pack of 4/0 EWG worm hooks for T-rig, and a pack of 1/0 round hooks for wacky fishing. Grab 2 flipping jigs, one 1/4oz and one 1/2oz to start, and get some zoom chunks or craws, or berkley chigger craws. Add a hula popper or chug bug. Otherwise don't pre-buy a ton of tackle, you'll figure out what you need as you learn and fish more. I made the mistake of filling an entire tackle box based on someones input and I realized really quickly that I didn't need a ton of the stuff I bought. And if you're anything like most of us on here, you'll read something or hear something and always want something new! But if you add the couple things I suggested you'll cover most bases for under $40
  18. I recently had the same decision to make. I have the Mojo 7' MHF for spinnerbaits and I really like it. I added a 7'2" MHMF Crucial for deep cranks and then was left with a tough decision for jerkbaits. I compared the Mojo jerkbait/top water rod with the Premiere 6'6" MM. I chose the Premiere and it was a great choice. I'd stick with a bit of a shorter rod for jerkbaits because it makes it easier to work them. The Mojo is a 6'6" MF and is more ideal for topwaters.
  19. I recently came into a nice little bonus through a hockey pool I entered and won, and I decided that if I won I'd treat myself to a little something special. I have rods and reels, both spinning and baitcasting, for pretty much every situation. The one thing I don't have is a premium spinning combo for my finesse fishing. I'm leaning towards the Stradic CI4, but I'm not sure if I should go for the 1000 or the 2500 (do I really need the extra line capacity vs. the weight trade-off for finesse?) I'm really lost on the rod selection though... I want something really sensitive and light, this will be a trophy combo for winning that pool! Any and all advice would be much appreciated! Thanks.
  20. 6'8" or 6'9" ML/Fast or XF
  21. The 4.7:1 brings 19"/turn and the 5.2:1 brings 21". I'm just wondering if other than the 2"/turn, if anyone has any input or experience with any other performance/feel differences between the two speeds? I'm going to be using it on a St. Croix Premiere 6'6" MM for wake baits, shallow cranks and jerkbaits. I like the idea of the 4.7:1 and 19"/turn, but truthfully, I don't want to be tempted to switch it to my deep crankin' stick instead of my Curado E5 which brings 21"/turn LOL. Any input/advice is much appreciated.
  22. I have an extension to this question. I use a Curado E5 for my deep cranks and slow rolling spinnerbaits, my other two reels or a Curado E7 and a Revo SX. Of those two, what would be the recommended designation if I was going to assign one to my pitching stick, and the other to my spinnerbait/shallow cranks rod. I'm still playing around, switching them back and forth, but wondering if anyone has any insightful opinions?
  23. From shore the extra length from the 7' will help you cast further. For topwaters a bit of a shorter rod is usually easier to handle. It's really personal preference... and it also depends on your height (for comfort), but I would say that for a general purpose rod I'd stick with the 7'

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