Everything posted by webertime
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Reel covers
Academy has some for $2-3. Work well, cut a slit in those too.
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chatterbait rod
For chatterbaits (3/8oz+ and a Trailer): That mislabeled Dobyns for sure. I really like the "Regular" taper Daiwa Rods (7'2"MHR) in either the Tatula or Zillion (new Tatula signature also coming out).
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PFD's
I have one of the Cabelas autos. Made long runs through big water and storms with no issues. I have had it go off in my garage and in my Jeep (the day of a tournament). So don't be afraid of rain, but sweaty butt humidity will make them go off.
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St Croix ScII rods vs SCIII rods
IPC tooling is how the material is wrapped around the mandrel (and how the mandrel is designed). That does not mean that they are the same blanks. A The fact that there are no 7'2" US made SCIII blanks is screaming that they are different from the Mexican ones. Wouldn't it be cheaper to have the same blanks across different lines? Why then design one with an extra inch or two? Grab a 7ft mh fast of each and you will see they are different rods altogether.
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Daiwa Lexa 100h bearings
It's a GREAT real for heavier baits (Tossing C-Rigs, Big Footballs, smaller swimbaits). I'd keep it for that sort of use as it will definitely cast far enough with those baits.
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Abu Garcia Veritas 2.0 Winch
The range is a general range. If the range is .5-2oz I would bet my house the sweetspot would be about an ounce. The baits I mentioned are going to be too light to load that irod effectively.
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Abu Garcia Veritas 2.0 Winch
I guess I should be more clear, any treble baits within the weight range of the Veritas. The I Rod is too much for lures like X Raps, strike king square bills, Sammies, etc.
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Abu Garcia Veritas 2.0 Winch
Any trebles
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St Croix ScII rods vs SCIII rods
ScIII is just one component in the rod blank... scrim, resin and mandrel all can have dramatic effects on the rod's performance. US St Croix's are totally different rods from the Mexican built ones. New Mojos are Rages with tweaked components. Bass-x is an old Mojo. St Croix's is just re-marketing their Mexican blanks as totally new products (without the expense of developing new blanks, etc.) Which isn't bad, they aren't terrible blanks, these are also the same blanks Rod Geeks sell. Avid is not a Mojo Bass-x is not a Premier Etc.
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Cranking Rod (Dobyns VS St. Croix)
Lets say Fury and Mojo...
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Cranking Rod (Dobyns VS St. Croix)
How similar (if at all) is a Dobyns 705cb (non glass) and a St. Croix 70MHM (non glass)? I've got the St Croix and want to get a bit lighter cranking rod and just want to make sure I'm not duplicating rods. If you have fished both I'd love to hear your feedback. Thanks!
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Diehard Shimano user....heading to the darkside?
I have fished and owned all the major brands. I still have an Abu on my swimbait set-up, otherwise I just sold my last non Daiwa. For me it was throwing a 10+ year old TDZ and blowing a E Series and Speedspool out of the water with it's performance. A reel with ten years of use, available for the same or less than most reels we talk about, just flat out smoking them. "Maybe there's something to this Daiwa thing..." So in the interest in uniformity for me I sold my Shimanos, Quantum and Lews and run OG Fuegos, Zillions, TDZ's, T3's and Aggrest/Exceler models.
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Fluorocarbon not breaking at the knot
One thing that I have noticed about Flouro is that it hates to be wrapped around itself. That's why you see things like "precision wound" on spools of higher end stuff. It's also why the best knots for it don't really wrap around so that under tension the line is pulled over another part (San Diego Jam and Palomar, even making the flouro the "U" part of an Alberto knot). SO that all being said I think you might have had an issue with how it was spooled up (tension on line not being consistent, so some of the line had line under much higher tension laid over it). OR you had a bad spool. Strip off some and check to see if it's still round and not squished or marfed up.
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Daiwa Revros vs. RG
I'd look at the Legalis for the same price... Alu frame and bearings still where you need them.
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Best Bang for $ Fluorocarbon
Sniper is sort of a benchmark as far as "good at a lot, not bad at much" Fluorocarbon goes. Gamma is nice too, but pay attention to the diameters (16lb sniper is the same as "12lb" Gamma, even though Gamma says it breaks at ~17lbs). Gamma is also twice the price per yard as Sniper.
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Which Tatula rod for swimjigs?
Look at the Phenix Recon at tw, the 766 (I also have) has a similar action, a bit faster, but still sort of jdm-ish.
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Which Tatula rod for swimjigs?
It will. I throw 4.8 Keitech (.4 oz) on a 1/2 oz chatterbait with no issue. TDZ 100ml 30lb braid with a 16lb Fluoro leader
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Which Tatula rod for swimjigs?
Ohhh should have told you that they are horrible with Lews. (wink) you'll love it.
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Carolina Rig Rod recommendations
Go big then! (I got an 8ft Phenix Recon for the coming season to try). https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/catpage-RDCDAIWA.html?from=basres 8ft Heavy
- Favorite Tough Day Baits?
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Carolina Rig Rod recommendations
Lamiglas or Dobyns "735" rods in whatever model your budget is. I use both with 20b Abrazx and 1/2-1oz weights. You want a tip on the slower end of "fast".
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Winter tinkering ideas
Put a paycheck nose job in front of your tail spinner... PS you're welcome
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Mojo bass 6'8 whacky spinning rod
It is a great whacky rod. Great tube rod too.
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Which Tatula rod for swimjigs?
Think of it as a 734.5. Mine is a mostly dedicated 4.8" Keitech on a swimbait hook rod. I also throw 3/8-1/2 swim jigs and chatter baits with it. Really any moving single hook bait.
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Which Tatula rod for swimjigs?
I have that rod. It's perfect for what you're looking for. Regular in Daiwa is the same as fast in Dobyns-ese. Not moderate by any means.