Mike Z

FWIW check out ESPN3.com. Its their on line tv site. Today they hav the weigh in show from the BASS masters tourney. Not sure how long the program is, but I plan on watching since I don't have cable. Its nice that some companies are finally realizing the power of the internet and broadband.

ok I'm a bit confused as to leader length. I just picked up some new Power Pro braid (40lb) and want to spool it up. I'm a bit confused though as to how much leader you all put on the end to tie off your lures. Some posts I have searched say a few inches, I guess so that you can tie off the hook easier and so you can use clear line. Some other posts I have read say they use 6' or even longer so that the line gets spooled up and the knot isn't exposed on the rod when you are bring the fish into the boat. On my line I usually tie off a swivel or swivel hook an the attach some line and then the hook. is this the same as what you guys are doing, only I am using the swivel?

Thanks guys. Went with the 702C on my first rod because they were out of the 703C. They also sold a 704C which I passed over. That will be my next rod.

Ok, my current rod is a Powell 7' Med action with a fast tip. Not sure exactly what combination I should get for a second rod, and what brand. Should I stick with the Powell and get a Med/Heavy with a fast tip, or get the heavy action with fast tip? I noticed that even with a 2lb or so bass on the end of this medium rod, the thing bends quite a bit. In my price range I also have a carrot stix model but I don't want to buy two rods that are very close together in the way they act. Also will have rewards credits and with other discounts might be able to get a mojo bass rod for $60 or so. I don't think these measure up to the Powell though. not sure. Also, since I have a 7' rod now in medium, should I stick with a 7' rod when I get my next one? FWIW I am pairing up this next rod most likely with a BPS pro qualifier. I fish mostly texas rigged plastic right now in ponds.

I'm one of those people who just went with a 6.x to 1 and it fast replaced my 25 year old spinning reel that was something like 4 to 1. The ratio of the newer one makes fishing far more enjoyable for me and I don't need to feel like I have to crank my arm off just to retrieve a top water lure.

I've read nothing but good reviews on these reels and am trying to decide if picking one up right now would be in my bet interest, only because then I would need to shell out the cash for a new rod as well. Have read that it is worth the $99 original price, but at $79, I think its a sure thing.

Go to Walmart. $3 for a whole load of them.

Was surfing BPS last night and wnt to te tracker site. The few boats I looked at ranged from like 14" to 20" IIRC. None as shallow as 10"

So true. Sounds like the boat will be a $5 grand boat and not a $3,500 one. And I don't believe the low hours story one bit. If the original owner used the thing so much that the boat needs repair on the hull, the carpet is worn out, and the seats are shot, chances are that he used it a LOT more than let on, and that would probably include the replacement engine as well. (How is the guy who put the engine on the boat related to the seller? And how long ago did he do the work?) Also, a sticking throttle cable will need to be replaced and would indicate lack of maintenance and proper boat storage. And why in hell would a seller not fix that problem before he offered it up for sale?????? thats huge! Lots of boats with that engine size available around on Craigslist and many look to be a much better shape. I would rather pay more initially and know that the person took care of and stored the boat properly. And I had no idea what Chine walking was. Found this link http://www.kencook.net/Chinewalk.html Could be the boat, the driver, or the water. Being that it has a replacement engine, I would wonder if the install was done correctly?

Go to bearsbaits.com as the others have said. You can order start kits and supplies for most anything. Perhaps the biggest resource on his site is the forums. Do yourself a favor and register because you get 4x the content by registering vs what you get just visiting. There are videos and tutorials on the best methods to use and from what I have read, his injectors and molds are among the best out there, if not the best. A few things I have learned from watching the videos and reading... Bait making is addictive and you will buy more than one mold. if you have friends who also fish, they can offset some of your material cost and help you minimize investment if you work it right. Always wear heat resistant gloves. Never use an open flame around plastics. A presto pot or a glass Pyrex cup and a microwave work best, but be sure to use a thermometer. Always have ventilation and don't do it in the house if at all possible. And last, a gallon can get you around 300 or so Senko style worms, give or take. At 300 a gallon, if you were paying $6.99 for Senkos, you would have spent $210 for the amount that you can pour with a gallon. The savings is similar with other bait types. The expense is up front with the injector and molds. Also, one of the biggest up sides to making your own bait is that you can mix your own colors and do a handful at a time if you want. Melt a little plastic and make a custom color with 5 or 10 worms for cheap rather than dropping $7 on a pack that you don't know will ever catch a thing. For someone like me who doesn't already have a huge box full of bait, this means some actual potential savings, though the up front cost is higher. This is primarily why I am looking at trying out the pour your own thing, the long term saving potential plus the ability to not have to buy bags if I only want to try a few. Anyway, this is all info that I grabbed reading here and mostly from over there watching the videos and reading through many posts. Youtube is also a fantastic place to see some different methods if you use the right keywords. Good luck. PS, plastic doesn't just start on fire on its own unless you severely overheat it or you provide it with an open flame. I worked for a plastics factory for a year and not once was there any bit of fire, even though we had dryers, ovens, and machines operating in the 350+ degreee range almost at all times.

One thing I saw on the Yamamato website under their tips and hints was that he wraps his drilled spools in teflon tape to cover the holes. he claims that this will reduce the chance that water from rain or whatever will get into the inner workings and foul things up. Also, since the tape is meant to be pliable and is wrapped around the spool, it may also act to keep the braid from slipping in case of a poorly tied knot as mentioned. Don't know if it will be effective, but a few wraps jjust in case can't possibly hurt when I have 100 yards of line wound tightly on top. (vs a mirror smooth aluminum machined finish)

This seems like the Bing cashback deal where you still have to pay full price and then wait for a rebate. This company I have never heard of and would be a little shy of doing the deal. FWIW BPS is having a sale on some of its equipment right now. I noticed the Pro Qualifier reels were $80 and the rods wer on sale as well. Other PBS reels also had some savings.

I cannot comment on the best battery, but can say that the AGM batteries do have a leg up as far as life and reliability go. Also, make sure you have a trickle charger set up to keep the batteries topped off between uses and after you charge back up. Using a trickle charger can make a battery last 2-3x as long when you go for periods of time without using as many do with marine and motorcycle applications. Don't get one of those super chargers that charge a battery in 30 minutes. Over charging or fast charging a battery will shorten its lifespan. The manufacturer will have a guide as to how to charge the battery. In general, the smaller the battery, the slower you need to charge. Heat kills a battery, but in a marine application I am not sure I would be worried. Last, if you are in or near a larger city, check the yellow pages for battery wholesalers. Depending on the battery and who you deal with, you can save a considerable amount. They may ask if you have an account, but you may be able to wiggle your way in to a discount if you are nice enough. I am fortunate enough to be working for a very large company and get discounts at most of our vendors. Never hurts to try and drop a name.

I'll say 50% for myself because the Senkos and line I recently bought was on sale. Plus I bought a reel for half price but a rod at full price. another question though. I was at Gander Mountain last week and they had the store brand Trick Sticks, beavers, craws, and other baits for their regular price. However, their store branded regular price was 30% less than the name brand and they have you about 30% more. So a 10 pack of trick stick from the regular company was $5 but the Gander Mountain package was a 15 pack (a free hook too) and only about $3. So is that paying regular price, or a discount? :-?

Nitrofreak, the entire boat is fiberglass exept the engine mount, which is wood. I do like your idea of checking the cables though and shooting the metal cables with some lubricant designed for the task is a good idea, assuming they are still good, of course. I am mechaically inclined and because of the short lengths of fuel line and other engine related items, I think replacement is a fantastic idea, assuming my brother in law didn't just do it a few years ago. If he didn't that would mean the entire system is about 30 years old and due for replacement. In searching the web about the older Johnson engines I did find that people who experienced fuel issues found that the bottom of the carb was clogged with junk and that restricted fuel to one of the needles/jets. But your idea of making sure it floats is way better than the engine work. A boat that takes on water isn't going very far, even with an engine that makes gobs of horsepower. ;D cart7t, yea, I understand things aren't always as easy as they appear. I am certain that with several of us doing the work, and having access to a ceiling mounted winch and a shop full of tools, that we can figure out how to do the replacement. I am sure though that we will have started out with more than enough beer to accomplish the task though. ;D zerofivenismo, appreciate the suggestion. Yes, new lubrication/grease would be a great idea. Trailer bearings are also a priority as well as making sure the tires aren't dry rotted. And I'm not sure it was a re-discovery as much as it was an awakening of a "duh moment" The boat has been pretty much sitting in the garage there for ~20 years and I never think twice when I walk past it on the way in to her side door. I was sitting there the otehr day wondering if I could hook up with someone locally and pay them for a ride on their boat when they head out, never thinking twice that I had access to a boat myself to use whenever I wanted. All I can say is thank goodness my dad took such good care of the thing all thse years back. Always washed after use, trailer always aintained, engine always gone over in the drive with the assistance of the garden hose and hookup for cooling water for the engine. Always though he was nuts running the engine in the driveway, but he made it last.

I wouldn't be too concerned about the weight, you can do an entire truck bed with one gallon so you are looking at maybe 10-20lbs depending on mix. On a 4-500 lb loaded boat, that much weight isn't going to be noticable. What will be noticable is the drag created by the coating. That stuff is meant to be textured and will never go on smooth and the entire hull will be a textured drag machine lol. If I was painting the bottom of a boat I would look at one of the epoxy type products that people coat their garage floors with. These paints are glossy and go on heavy. The only downside might be flexing as I am not sure how these paints would handle flex. RustOleum also make a plastic type paint that would work with some flexible applications. Perhaps a few good coats of that will work. Again, not sure how it would hold up in a marine environment.

Wow, very nice. I personally wouldn't paint it. From the pictures, the hull matches the seat and carpet pretty good. I also really like the way you created the under seat storage (raised the seating too) and the bow platform.

Well first let me sat Woot and a gloat... My mom and dad had an old 16' Sea Raider fiberglass boat with a 35hp Johnson on it since I was a kid. I think it is like a 1976 or something. Anyway when my mom and dad divorced, she got the boat for some reason, I think maybe because she thought us kids would want to take it out. Its been sitting in her garage for what I thought was the last 10-15 years. Always garage kept, so the thing looks near new and still has original carpeting, seats, cover, etc. (i'd bet the old blue life vests from when I was a kid back in the late 70s are still in there lol) As a bigger bonus she said she would pay for the new registration on the trailer and boat. -double woot- LoL So I started thinking today, why not see if it will run. I gave my brother in law a call and found out that about 4 or 5 years back he had someone give the engine a tune up. Said it ran great after but when it sat for a year he went to use it and it would only sputter and would only run with the choke on. Limped back to the dock his last trip. Anyway, we figure the carb needs to be cleaned and set but i am wondering what other maintenance I should be looking at doing on the engine. I know it has a plug or two that will only cost a few bucks to replace, but I was wondering if anything needs to be greased up or gone over before we give it a shot out on the water this year. Thanks for any and all input you guys can offer. Also, if there is anything you can advise me on checking for besides just engine stuff I would appreciate it. PS. Just talked with my mom. She said she was told years ago that the transom would need to be replaced. She said "the wooden board that the engine mounts to". Back then they quoted her like $300 to replace, so I imagine its not all that hard since the majority of work I bet is removing and re-installing the engine before and after the work. So if anyone has any ideas or expertise I would appreciate it.

In northern Ohio, we have a Bluegrass/Fescue mix of grass. I have practiced with my new baitcaster on 8lb mono, my spinning reel on 6lb mono and my two kids beat the heck out of their new stuff for a day practicing on 4lb and 10lb mono respectively. My stuff is $5 Stren and the kids have whatever was on their reels from the factory. On all 4 rods, not a bit of fraying is noticable and the line feels just like it did when it was new. Granted, in the water going over trees and through weeds you have water that acts as a lubricant, but I don't think grass should tear up line like that.

Airbrushes can clog very easy, especially if you don't clean it out perfect after every use. Any little bit left will build up over time. and clog. When I used a dual action I would always have the pressure on the high end. I didn't worry about overspray and the paint went where I wanted. if you are using water based paints, soak the brush in hot soapy water for a night and clean it out really good. If you are using oil based paints then run the recommended thinner through it after cleaning out the jar really good. I almost always thinned out all my paints at least a little bit. Also, do yourself a favor and when you buy a new bottle or jar, open it and drop a dozen BBs into it. When you shake it, the BBs will aid in mixing so you don't clog the airbrush with solids. Good luck. A $60 airbrush is a pretty good one and I want to see you be able to use it for many years.

So when you say "digging in" what you are referring to is the line sort of embedding itself between the other wraps? Ok, because when I first read the OPs post I was thinking the braid would wear/cut into my aluminum spool. Thanks for clearing that up. And now that I think about it, I remember when my dad got his first baitcaster all those years ago. He took it to the park, tied the end around the pavillion post and then walked away and reeled himself in. Now I understand why. <edit> Since you don't have that much tension on the line durig normal fishing, is it a good idea to do this after every few fishing trips?

Can you guys explain this "digging"? I bought my first baitcaster last week and spooled it up with 8lb mono, figuring that I would have to cut a lot of line off in the first few months and didn't want to waste it on braid. When I laid it on the reel, I just held the line between my thumb and index finger so it would wrap somewhat tight. I figured this was tight enough but after reading the above comment about walking in the line, I now see that it could be a lot tighter. Is this necessary with mono line? I also have enough line on the spool that my longest cast will never go the 100 yards or so worth of the filament I have on there. Is this really an issue? Never had a problem on my spinning reel, so I am in the dark on my new baitcaster.

If you paid by paypal file a claim with them. Have photos of everything as well. If you used a credit card through Paypal, then you should also contact them about what to do. Never, ever accept second chance offers unless the seller has a TON of positive feedback or it is a well known store. Even then you can never be too careful. I have sold lots of stuff by second chance, but I also sent the buyers e-mails during the auction letting them know I had other stuff to put up, so don't worry about being outbid. (I had a price in mind on my stuff and the price had already gone past that point and I was very happy)

I had the same problem tonight. Tried a few different baits in watermelon and pumpkin but the fish grabbed the hot pink and watermelon/chartreuse Senko every time. Would go to set the hook, the fish would be there for a few seconds then let go. Closest I could figure is that the fish just wasn't big enough to suck up the 5" senkos I had on the line. Kinda hoping that a 4" or 3.5" would allow me to catch them. Sucks getting tons of bites and not being able to bring one in. :-/

x2 I agree! You will never see that in my boat! LOL! Haven't caught a thing with any of their products either, for catfish or bass. And as far as people complaining about Senkos, how do you figure? Someone said they get 2 fish per worm. So 20+ fish per pack of worms and yet they are overrated? Overrated would be something that everyone buys yet doesn't catch the fish or doesn't do as well as advertised. I fail to see how someone proving the product works could make it overrated. :