OnthePotomac

I can only address the Chronarch, owning the Chronarch CI4+ and the MGL. Both are excellent performing reels, but the MGL is a step up and an incredible reel with the MGL spool for a very fast start upon cast and the micro gears. I am lovin' my 8.1:1 Chronarch MGLs.

The Carbonlites baitcasters vary by plus/minus .2oz in weight depending on when they were made. Mine weigh as follows: 7'MH black version 4.2oz 7'MH white version 4.0oz 7' Med white version 4.0oz 6'6" MH black version 3.6oz

BPS Carbonlites, or Titaniums. $100 to $130. Super light.

A 7' MH fast tip for plastics, swimbaits, chatterbaits, jigs and spinnerbaits (and use one for frogs) A 7' Med moderate tip for crankbaits and top waters (and maybe spinnerbaits) Before you decide on a glass rod, go to a store and handle them. Glass rods can be "whippy" and heavy. Glass and graphite blend not so much and lighter and graphite the lightest. I have now gone to all graphite and am a big fan of BPS Carbonlite rods (but do have one 2-piece Tourney Trail from Cabelas) They are inexpensive, incredibly light, and for me have been very reliable and I catch as many fish as the next guy. I have, however chosen to buy nice Shimano reels. Buying rods is like buying cars in that it is all about what you can afford and are most comfortable with and confident in the brand. There are lots and lots of excellent rods out there and it does not take $150 plus to own one. Am I a cheap skate, or just practical? I only have 7'Med Carbonlite spinning rods, but hardly ever use them.

10 years ago I purchased a 2-piece baitcaster from Cabelas in a MH fast tip to take to Florida on a visit. It was, at that time, their Tourney Trail line. I still have the rod and use it and have compared it frequently to the current light weight rods and it blows my mind at how light that rod is and that was 10 years ago. My grandson is an avid bass angler and when he used it he thought it was a med light rod. The rod was on sale then for $80. I have no idea what the offer now.

After messing around with everything to throw a frog, I have settled on a 7'MH fast tip older KVD Quantum rod with a Curado 100B spooled with 50lb Sufix 832 and it all works really well. He designed that rod for worm fishing, but it sure does a great job with a frog and doesn't wear me out in the process.

I can only address Shimano reels, but every Shimano I buy has too much oil in the spool bearings, so I clean them and lube with Yellow rocket Fuel and they are good to go. I read where some insist that Shimano packs grease in the spool bearings at the factory, but that is not true. Only heavily oiled.

I have Invizx 15lb on both of my 200XG reels with no problem and use them for worms and other plastics. I ended up with two brakes on and one reel and set the outside dial to "2" and two brakes on the other reel required an outside dial to "3". Not sure about the Hg version, but I was surprised at how much pressure the cast control cap took tightening to stop back lashing. It fooled me because I thought it would drastically reduce the distance, but not so. So in the end, it ended up being the cast control cap tighter that solved my problem.

A second here on CRC Electronic Cleaner. A whiz at removing grease, no odor, no residual and dries instantly. I put the bearing in a tiny cooking screen strainer, step out doors and blast away. Then they get a short bath in lighter fluid, Yellow Rocket Fuel (SS), or Oust Met Oil (ceramic) and good to go and it does not take all day to clean them.

Boy, this is a subject where everyone has their favorite. I even read on a site sometime ago where a fellow said all he ever did was dip his reels in kerosene because his grandpa told him it would work. Personally, I don't think it is a good idea For what it is worth here is my list of what I use and there are numerous variations out there but my approach for 15 years has been keep it simple with proven products: Spool bearings...Yellow Rocket Fuel Handle bearings...ReelX Crank shaft bearings... ReelX Pinion bearings...usually packed in either Super Lube, or Yamaha blue Marine I am currently experimenting with dipping a couple of my pinion bearings in TSI301 and it is working extremely well. If you get into TSI 301, or 321 be aware you cannot use grease with them, because they are not compatible with grease. Worm gears...ReelX Drive and pinion gears and vinyl gears...Super Lube, or Yamaha blue Marine .

I have both reels and both are fine reels. The Chronarch is a little larger than the Curado 70 and both use the same braking system. The 70 hold less line. I know the new Chronarch MGL has stolen the show from the CI4, but believe me the CI4 is no slouch. It is a high end Shimano and very smooth. One of mine is a 6.3:1 and the other two are 7.6:1. My 70's are 8.2:1. I have not bothered to upgrade the spool bearing in either reels because cleaned and properly lubed they are fine as is. I service my own reels.

Eric, leave repair like this to someone who has all the necessary stuff to make it like new. Or go to mudhole.com and watch their rod repair, building video.

DVT is sure correct on the Curado 300e reel. That is a big , powerful reel for the purposes he cited. What type fishing are you going to do? If it is just regular bass fishing you need to gear back the reel selection. The KVD reel is a regular bass reel.

On my MGL I clicked two brakes on and set the outside dial on "2" and have never changed the setting and have the same setting on my other 7 Shimano reels with SVS braking. The MGL is spooled with 15lb InvizX flouro (.013 dia) and used for a variety of plastics, but primarily Senkos. Keep the SVS ring wiped with a QTip with a bit of bearing oil on it and it will stop the brake shoes from sort of screaming when you cast. I have 8 Shimanos now with the SVS braking system and they all required a QTip with oil which, in my case is after each outing because I fish the day lights out of them. You will know when it is needed because the noise of the brake shoes is quite obvious.

I am still using BPS 20lb mono from a jumbo spool I bought 15 years ago. It hangs on my peg board in the original box above my fishing work bench in our laundry room. It is only one reel, so even with an annual line change it has lasted a long time.

I like Shimano because they last a very long time. My Curado 100B's are passing 10 years old and going strong, but I service my own reels. No major part or bearing has had to be replaced and there is no boat rash on them because the reels on deck lay on a foam rubber pad and are always covered when moved in my truck.

Wow! 6lb Fireline will be like fishing with sewing thread.

The 200E is a fine reel. I have three and have done nothing to the three in terms of upgrades and all three are excellent cast distance reels, but one of them will just go on forever until I stop it with my thumb on a cast with a KVD Shad (3/8oz). Go figure.

Do a search on this subject. A lot on here about WD 40. I hate the stuff for my fishing gear.

I bought my "Rage" version at Gander 5 years ago on sale for $99, but it is the only Carrot Stick I own and do not know here it ranks in their line. Great rod for throwing cranks. Never a problem with it.

I only have Carbonlite rods from BPS and as much as some bad mouth them, I have never had a problem with them. They are inexpensive, sensitive and really, really light, which is what I like. All of mine are 6'6" & 7' MH fast and 7'medium. I am up to nine. They take a beating on the Potomac beds each summer and keep on ticking.

Either Yamaha Blue, or Superlube.. not together.

Touch of oil in bearings, grease on gears.

I just purchased the 8.1:1 because I fish plastics a great deal on the Potomac.

I second Yamaha Blue Marine (not Yamaha general purpose grease) and Super Lube. Used both in reels (not at the same time LOL) and they are great.