Peter E.

Al Lindner, bar none, that man knows his stuff and he is an excelent teacher.

Some times how ever in extreme high pressure lakes, I think that the fish can name the lure, brand, size, and even give the bar code from the box! Also they seem to be able to kinda work that lure in their mouths so that there is no way to get a good hook set. Can these fish recognize soft plastics, maybe but only as far as when they have already been caught by it before. They simply learn that it hurts and they get a free boat trip if they eat the tequila shad lizard or the blue and black jig. Thus said the bite slows down on those lures. I really think how ever if the bait has the right attractant and triggering qualities, then they will eat it no matter what it is supposed to be or if they have already had the free boat ride. These qualities are so ingrained that they feed on those principles, weak wounded prey goes first, Random action with pauses. and so on. Peter

I agree with Rocknfish9001 when he says that the majority of fish take lures that are either annoying or appear wounded. Another important reason is a reaction to having the lure kind of buzz by the fish. The important thing that that lure has to have is the right lure qualities. They are the lures ability to attract the fish and then to trigger that fish into striking. Attractant qualities: Large size- The bigger the lure is the more visible it is Bright Color- Attracts the fishs' attention especailly on a sunny day Unnatural Sound- Sounds like a rattle or a set of clackers Mechanical Action- The action a lure has as it is retreived steadily through the water All of these qualities taken to the extreme can actually turn fish off. Like when a lure is too big or the colors too austentacious. The rattles too loud or the action to steady during the the retreive. The next thing a lure has to have is triggering capabilities: Small Size- Because a lure is not living the easier a lure is the easier it is to detect the flaws of the bait. Also it makes the lure seem like an easier meal. Fast Retreive- When a lure is preceived by the fish to be fleeing a strike almost emminet. this gives the fish less time to inspect the lure. Random Action- The movement from side to side and as it reacts to the enviroment. This will make the lure seem to be a living thing. When you can get a lure with the right attractive qualities and the right triggering capablities it will catch fish no matter what the lure is suppossed to look like. The trick is to pick the lure needed to fish an area that has the right fish catching qualities. You can use the FLP formula to get all of that together, F+L+P=success, when you don't have all of the info to put into the formula do a little fishy algebra. F+L+x=Success Solve for x to find the P Peter

I have caught fish on spinners in everybody of water that I have ever fished. A spinner is my go to bait, I can cover alot of water and a multitude of depths with them. Also I and many other people would probably much more helpful without the wise cracks. Bless your heart though if you have trouble catching fish on a spinnerbait, quit fishing with them. Peter

Ditto!

Seems that the mud bugs stay active in Alabama, except at craw fish boils! Peter

OK bobo here it is the one thing that is the first factor that goes through my head: Sunlight and it's diretion. Senko77 put it that if there is a blue bird sky and so on that he knows to go with a vertical presentation. The amount of sunlight determines the strike zone of the fish. But like i said the whole FLP formula is second nature so, I guess I just end up thinking like the fish . RoLo had a killer point in how the temp trend affected the fish, but if i go to a new boody of water and i am not up on that sort of thing i go on the sunlight factor. Peter

I agree with Road Warrior, there is no one thing. To me the FLP formula is that one thing, it is hat I judge my conditions and fishing presentation by. Like RoadWarrior said there is no one condition for every setting, it is a combination of factors, and the FLP formula is what helps me judge that combination of factors. No i got the question, i wanted to show how I used one method to understand all of the factors I am faced with. And once you understand and begin to apply the FLP it becomes second nature, just like judgeing the wind, or the current, or even the structure around you. With the FLP all of that comes into play. The boys at In-Fisherman had a dynamite idea when the gave fisherman this formula to fish by. PETER

The FLP Formula. F+L+P=Success F-Fish: I take what I know about the fish, and how the water temp., barometric pressure, light conditions, water clarity, and time of year affect their behavior. L-Location: I take how the location I am fishing is affected by, current, shelter from sunlight and wind, depth and structure. And the forage found most easily in that area. P-Presentation: I take what I know about the fish and the location and determine what presentation will best fit the situation. Not just one presentation, but at least three, so that I am most easily able to target all of the fish in the water collumn, and the most fish with each level of activity. Now I know that doesn't seem like just one thing but it is, the FLP formula. When you start to apply it with every situation you are faced with it becomes second nature. F+L+P=Success Peter

Check this web site out it should tell you every thing you need to know: http://bassresource.com/fish_biology/about.html#fish. It has stocking info and also you can order the fish you want to stock a pond with. Good luck and make sure we at the forum get an invite to fish (especailly me ). Peter

I think it ate somebody's dog! Look at it! Did they release it, because those are some prime gene's, like serious Levi's man!

Getter' Dun! Getchu sum of dem' Big Girls!!!! Peter

with proper selective harvesting and stocking systems, I beleive that soon fish that will become more and more average. We live in an era where science is fishing! Peter

I agree with Roger, he took the words out of my keyboard! Like anything else though if you throw it more you catch more on it. As far as line goes try flourocarbon. and the red works for me on lures, I take finger nail polish and put it on if there is none on it. Peter

White tandem spin, black and silver rapala f-11, storm wiggle wort shad color, a few assorted worms (in any color that appeals to you), 1/4oz bullet weights, tru turn worm hooks, a descent spinning reel, a six six rod with 8-10 pound test. That is all you really need, read the breaks in cover and structure and have fun. Fish it like you would the flats if you are familiar with them. Good luck. Peter

What type of hair should I use on those hair jigs? Deer hair? I may tie a few to save some money! Besides it makes it more fun to tie 'em, and then catch 'em. What weight jig head and style works best or am I only limited by my imagination? Do any of ya'll use deep divers? I find them to be extremely effective and I was wondering If ya'll have any tips for keeping them from getting hung up? Now that would be helpful. Peter

I strongly agree with Low budget hooker in that the treated lumber will have alot of chemicals leaching off into the water but will the tires do the same thing? Will the tires have chemicals leaching out into the water also? I think that the tires as a structure would do great if you put one on its side and one standing up in it. I still support the pvc method over the others I have heard. Roger, have you considered using some of the smaller types of artifical reefs used off shore in the Gulf? If memory serves they have all sizes and there is little chance of them being moved in a squal. Although here weight is an issue, I am guessing that you could find young volunteers with a strong back so that you can sit back, pop a top, and supervise! The state of Florida has some of the most extensive number of private made reefs. I would at least look into this if you have not done so already, of course knowing you, you have. Whatever way you decide to go, post some pictures of what you decide to put down please sir. Peter

Well RoLo I would say: you are only limited by your imagination and the weight of your "reef". If you are using the pvc idea remember to drill holes through it here and there, and I would also a rough grit peice of sand paper and run it over the pvc to rough it up, this will help to speed up and stimulate algae growth on your reef. Keep in mind the type of pvc you use, composite has air bubbles, but is cheaper. for the bottom structure I would go with like 3 inch pvc and fill it with mortor mix, not quik krete and use reducers to like 2" or 1 1/2" pvc for the rest of the structure. I would put that bottom 3" pvc through the cinder blocks. Good Luck, Peter

Why hair Jigs? Does that make that big of a difference, does the style of jig change from that of a lm jig? I saw some with like, spinners, and such, so are things like that an issue? Thanks, Peter

Sweet, thanks boys, I got a trip planned in the next three weeks, and I will try it ALL! Hey if ya'll get the chance try a bandit mistake, now that is dangerous! Peter

When I down size from large mouth baits to small mouth how much should I do this? I still like to use the larger lures that I can for the fish in hopes of taking the larger fish. Also in this ultra clear water would ya'll suggest that I go with a flourocarbon on my reels? Is the bite in the spring for small mouth as heavy on crawfish as it is with spotted bass (red-eye)? What weight jigs? Like I said I have never fished for small mouth, so what differences are there if any? Do these fish feed on insects more readily than say, spotted bass? In the rocks that hang my deep divers that I use do ya'll have any tips for keeping them from getting hung? I like a deep diver because it runs true in the currents. Well thanks for the advice already given trust me it has been well received. Peter

hey ya'll I was fishing Little River this weekend and I was wondering how to get the most out of my small mouth fishing. I know how to read water (like look for current breaks, eddies, lay downs and so on) but I have never fished for small mouth. The water I am fishing is like the name says a small river and there is no way you could use motor boat in there. so keep in mind this is wade/float fishing here. ui could use all the advuce ya'll can give and be grateful for it. Peter

My Granddaddy always said, "Son, if you ain't gettin' hung up, you ain't fishing where the fish are". Sound advice, and it always pays off. Peter

The break down of my day is based on the strike zone of the fish, this depends on the amount of light and its angle. 1) Morning: in the dawn and just past post dawn with the sun light not yet a factor I go with a top water approach because the fishes strike zone is large (a strike zone is how far a fish will go to strike a lure). inthe mid morning I will stay in the shadowy areas working crank baits and spinnerbaits. 2) mid-day: as the sun rises higher in to the sky the fish will start to go deeper or into heavier cover to escape those rays and also to keep cool. This makes their strike zone smaller, and ar high noon that strike zone is at its smallest. I will wo to soft plastics and jigs, with an occasional deep diver. 3) afternoon and evening; as the sun sets his strike zone begins to broaden. I will return to a pattern closer to the one i used in the mid morning. Although I will still use soft plastics and jigs I will use that larger strike zone to locate schools with those horizontal presentations. in the evening I return to the dawn pattern. Everything is about the strike zone. Peter

I agree it is a great site, welcome aboard! Peter