OkobojiEagle

That's a prescription for tearing a hook free from the bass' flesh. Back reeling is just a technique to better control the bass' attempt to free itself. Its not "cult-ish", just less understood over time. Today anglers choose to increase the power of their equipment instead of playing a fish. When I was in high school I had a manual transmission in my car that allowed me better control of the vehicle in less than perfect conditions. I really liked that car, but I don't think I'd enjoy driving a Peterbuilt around today... oe

I think it depends on what it is you're wanting to glue/seal. oe

I use light line, thin diameter hooks, quality reels with good drags AND I back-reel large fish. I also have a landing net with me... oe

Need a longer handle on you're landing net? oe

Let me be the contrarian... We need a better definition of what cover we're talking about. Rock, wood, brush, even sparse cabbage you can work a crank bait through. Thick coontail that's grown to the water's surface you're not going to get any treble hook adorned bait through. This cover calls for a single blade spinner bait or buzz bait worked over the top. Maybe a weedless frog (I don't throw these) or t-rigged worm/plastic swim bait. Even a curly tail grub or tube is going to have trouble coming through cleanly. oe probably my top technique through weedy cover is a weighted swim bait hook dressed with a caffeine shad skittered over the weeds and let to drop into weedless pockets.

5lb?... hmmm, might be. Are you 6'4" 240lbs? Smallies are fun to catch at any size. You'll remember that fish for a long while, at least until you catch a bigger one! oe

Thanks Rich. oe

Smallmouth (walleye, northern pike, perch, drum, ect. as well) will take a hair jig all year long, but this time of year there are better choices to consistently land them. Practice your presentation in shallow clear water this time of year, then fish them more seriously when the water temp dips into the 50's this fall. Check your message box... oe

RichF and Jason/Fishballer also... thanks for weighing in. RichF, its probably too much to hope that you might have tried the rod with a 1/2oz spinnerbait?? The rod this may replace is a 7' Fenwick HMG with the same 1/4 - 1oz lure rating. I'm assuming this rod will load a little more both on the cast and the hook set. What I'm most curious about is any actual casting distance increase over the 7' rod. Any experience you want to share about these characteristics? (Cost... yes pretty discounted right now. I was handling one yesterday that was priced 60.00) oe

Looking for some "on water" experience with or directions to critical reviews of Abu Garcia "Ike" composite rods. Specifically the longer rods (7' 10" med hvy 1/4 - 1oz lure rating). I'm considering for 1/2 oz spinnerbaits, but suspicious it might be too soft in action. Would be used occasionally for crankbaits, but mostly the spinnerbaits. oe

https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/catpage-ZORROBAITS.html?from=basres oe

My 1st choice can only be found on ebay or swap boards... Pixy 68 oe

Now that this thread has run it's course, it might be a good time to mention the importance of level wind maintenance. The worm gear in the level wind is more exposed than the spool bearings and should be more frequently cleaned and lubed. It's exposed in the front of the reel where the line will bring water and lake gunk to deposit in the gear housing. Without taking anything apart on the reel the worm gear can be cleaned with a little soapy water and a child's nylon toothbrush. After thoroughly scrubbing the gear, I use a can of compressed air and blow out the housing. I let it dry for a bit and liberally lubricate the worm gear on both sides of the pawl running the pawl across the worm gear several times. Obviously, cleaning the level wind worm gear should be done as often as a build-up of gunk can be seen and that might be after every trip if the fishing conditions are very sloppy, but even if you fish really clean water it should be re-lubed more frequently than you'd realize as the water carried and deposited by the line in the housing will wash off the lube quickly. The result isn't apparent immediately, but a pawl will wear and need replacement much more quickly when not well lubed. oe

I want them on baits that will have a stop & go action... poppers, walkers, suspending jerkbaits. Angry John mentioned it first, the feathers will give a secondary action and attraction. oe

Your problem may be as simple as replacing a $3 - $4 pawl. Pawls get a lot of wear, especially if not lubricated frequently. oe

We don't know that yet... oe

Let's check back with you at the end of the decade... oe

(be sure to have the thumb bar in it's "up" position when you close the side plate.) oe

I only wear white shirts then catch insects and smash them onto my shirt... kind of a "shirt of the day" approach to matching the hatch. oe

If you feel skirted swim jigs catch more bass (largemouth or smallmouth) than non-skirted jig heads/soft plastic baits I seriously want your opinion why? In my clear water lakes without woody cover(except docks) to necessitate weed guards, I haven't caught a single bass swimming a skirted jig. This lack of success spans several years of occasional comparisons fishing my waters when I am catching bass with jig heads/plastic. I catch all kinds of fish swimming various plastics on jig heads. Why do you add a skirt that changes the silhouette of the trailer and deal with a stiff weed-guard? I'm expecting to hear dark water color to play a part in this discussion, but other than that I'm baffled why you have more success with a skirted swim jig than a skirtless jig head. oe edit for clarity: This is not a discussion about dragging skirted jigs ON the bottom or through brush.

what's a "yes" vote and what's a "no" vote?

I consider "white" to be a hi-vis color... oe

I don't catch walleye as easily dead sticking artificials, but 3" - 4" soft swimbaits and grubs swimming lazily just above bottom will entice either species. oe

I agree a swimbait, along with a grub, tube, fluke or many other soft plastics are very effective in clear water. I differ in that I don't think a skirted, weed guard equipped jig is necessary over a simple skirtless jighead design. I'd sure like to have the "skirted is better" crowd give me a reason to second guess myself. oe

5 rigged in the boat: Baitcast -- spinnerbait/ lipless crankbait Baitcast -- hard plastic jerkbait/ hard plastic top water Spinning -- soft plastic grub/ tube/ swim bait Spinning -- drop shot Spinning -- soft plastic jerkbait oe