BILLYsobx

I own an extreme etx10shb which is the high speed 7:1 ratio. Bought it new 2 yrs back. Great reel for $100. I also have several older model extremes. The newer version seems to be alot quieter than the older. I just did a complete breakdown and thorough cleaning on two of the older models and the newest. There seems to be no signs of excessive wear and it still had factory greese. Granted it is not used nearly as much as my shimanos or revos. IMO for half the price they are the best reels at $100.

Definately my Curado 200 DPV. Ican burn cranks all day and not burn myself.

Thanks for the input. I have been using the reel oil that comes with shimano and revos all along. I put it on everything but drag washers and main gear. On main gears I usually use a tiny amount of marine bearing grease, learned my lesson about the tiny amount, too much and it just ends up every where you dont want it. On the worm gear just the shimano oil.Got the hot sauce to try. I ended up using it on one of my BPS extreme and just took a few casts. It is a little over 1 yr old and now it works smoother than new. Was just seeing if I was lubing properly the only thing I have never used is the stuff for the drag washers. I have just cleaned off the grit in the past. I'll try some of your suggestions. My shimano casts smooth and retrieves smooth with the regular stuff so maybe I'll be thanking everyone this weekend if it performs better

I have my shimano 200 DPV broke down and almost clean. I am ready to reassemble and was wondering where everyone puts the reel grease internally. I have Quantum Hot Sauce. I have never used hot sauce, Is it good stuff or should I hold off and get something else? Also I read in this site that my Abu-Garcias do not need oil in the drag washer portion,I never have, of course I know the drive gear needs some grease on the teeth, the drag washers iin my shimano are like a brake pad material so I am assuming they don't need oil - correct. And what do you use on worm gear? I have always just used oil , what about marine CRC white lithium grease spray has anyone used it or is it too thick

Use a Double Palomar. Same as palomar just start like regular except fold line again and you have two loops and proceed when cinched you have tag line and a loop tag line. It's a little tough at first but it is 4 lines through eye that won't slip through gap ---- been there done that

Thanks guys. As far as flouro leader to braid goes I guess I am still a novice to using a leader for bass. I have been bass fishing since I was old enough to remember and have only used one line from reel to lure except c-rigging. I told myself last week that I needed to attempt this. I have had no problem with 8 # and less flouro but I wanted use some heavier in some situations. My Vanish 8 # works great with little twist. I have seen the knot on the forums before but need the name please and I guess 6 ft of leader or what is normal. I have had no problems with vanish but I will explore everyones options. I am stubborn when it comes to trying new equipment if I am happy with what I use. So I guess I'll try Yo Zuri and Seaguar and maybe next weekend you'll see my post on finally switching

I love flouro-carbon but have problems with twist on spinning reel. I tryed it about 5 yrs ago and it twisted right away. I have no problem with line twist when I use mono. I rarely go above 10#. I use 50# braid now for dingy water or heavy cover. I would like to use flouro-carbon when in clearer water around cover. I know all the tricks mentioned in the other post. If I take the spool off and re-spool will that help? Also I own Team Daiwa Tierra reels in the 2500 series if I went up to the 3000 the bigger spool would probably help right. But I don't want that extra weight. I am a berkley vanish and transition user. I would be willing to switch if that helps but really don't want to. I would like to be able to use 12# sometimes. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I love Stren mono and sonic braid but haven't tryed 100% Flouro or Flouro-Cast are they good and which one is best?

Very true RM. I failed to pay attention to the post that it was when he was in free spool. The drag and drive gears are not engaged at that time. They have nothing to do with casting. It would only make it TOUGH to turn handle. Definately something spool related

After you remove the handle,spacer,star drag knob,the two cupped washers"called leaf spring washers"and the drag clicker-plus you have the palm side of reel open with spool removed. You pull cover off and remove bearing and sleeve for the handle crank the silver washer on top of main gear is called the idler, shimano calls it the key washer on older bass pro reels there is a brass washer then the key washer,the new extremes are like shimano,abu and quantums which have the idler or key washer. It is raised in the center portion or cupped kinda like a dinner plate. The cup goes up or away from gear under idler is drag washers if it is backwards when you mount handle and tighten,that cup tightens the drag too much and doesn't allow spool to spin freely.

I use vanish for lots of applications. I only use a palomar knot for any line to lure knot. You definately have to spit on flouro and pull tag and main line tight at the same time. Make sure it is a simultaneous . It is very meticulous, but the most important part. I have 10 # on my cranking reel for clear to slightly stained unless fishing heavy cover, and then I go up from there. I have not had a bass break off with this application . I check my line every time I hit something . I really love trasition red. I swear it will hold well past the advertised weight if tied proper. I was fishin gaston a couple years ago and foul hooked a giant carp in the tail. We chased him for at least 20 mins I got him to the surface and the hook popped loose. He was at least 4 feet long. That was on 10# VANISH. I use 20 # trasition red for buzzbaits and spinnerbaits and for pitching . I have never had unusual breakage. I swear by it. I fish tidal rivers also where there are lots of barnacles . I have had more breakage issues with 50# braid. The most important part of any line to lure is the KNOT not the line. I have caught speckled trout and flounder. And dont forget about those mud-fish “Bowfin”. I can pulla tree down with my palomar knot and transition red ,NO LIE

Check the idler. It is the first part of your drag. If the cupped part is not out towards the sleeve then your drag is basically locked up

Thanks the release is on the palm side under the thumb-bar on this real. The problem was not a mechanical failure but a “maintenance failure” on my part, I was fishing alot of brackish water when I bought it. I broke the rod about 6 months later and put it in my shed. I always clean and maintain my reels regularly but that reel slipped my mind because it was put up. It sat for at least a yr and it had corroded the button internally plus the nice shiny gray paint had chipped away. I know it was neglect on my part. I have the first version and liked it but I would recommend saving ur money and get one of the higher price reels. I had problems with the thumb-bar a month after I got , It wouldn't click all the way up when u turned the handle I believe it had something to do with the flipping switch. The part that is wierd is that where I was fishing is not that salty and I have some BPS extremes, I just cleaned one that had been sitting probably longer and has never had any maintenance. I was given the reel so I never worried about cleaning it. There is not any corrosion internally ,just losing some black paint on the aluminium reel housing. With my higher quality reels I clean them regularly. The way Iook at, it like most things if you want the best you gotta pay more

I was going to clean my Quantum KV1000CXD baitcaster a few days ago and I had the handle side disassembled but couldn't figure out how to access the side-plate with the cast control . Does anyone have any suggestions? Or any good links to find schematics , all of the sites I Searched did not have KVD Signature Series

You are 100% correct Bob. I didn't mean to stray from the c-rig application. I only use my low ratio curado for cranking. I think both are excellent at casting. As far as c-rigging I would not know, I do not throw it often

I own two revo stx's and I have a curado. And 5 bps extremes. The main advantage of my curado is that it has 5.0: 1 gear ratio. I can crank all day with any crankbait The revo winch has a 5.4:1 ratio that doesn't sound like a big differance but it is. I love my revo's though . They need a lower ratio winch in my opinion

What about grass carp are they good for bass habitat I have seen grassy ponds turn barren

I have used mitchells since i was a grommet. I had quite a few fail. I never minded spending good money on baitcasters but I never thought I would go high on spinning reels until i was fishing for puppy drum one day with a brand new mitchel... 300ex and I reared back and the gears s jumped and I lost him. I never bought low price reels again. Right now I use TEAM DAIWA TIERRA 2500 $129 but you wont worry about cheap gears and drag. I know that its hard to let that much $ go but its better than thinking about the one that got away

Well Joe my best fishing bud (MY OLD MAN) and I went to harris early march . we started out fishing points deep and nothin We hadn't been there in over ten years .We decided that we should go to lower end and we hit a straight bank nothing special just a tiny feeder creek .but we knew the old river bed swept right down it.We started cranking crankbaits and before long we both had 3 quality fish back at ramp guys had 0 we were fishing lessthan 5ft of water they were fishing deep so do what u are confident at

I looked at that site. They are way more detailed than mine. Do you know when he bought into them? Did he buy into it and then they modified it. The tail is accurate but the mouth on his looks like skitter pops mine has a sorta pop-r mouth. I don't mind having a novelty lure I was wondering was this an original before someone wanted to make money

I looked at that site and those lures are a lot more detailed than mine. Do u know when he endorsed the inventor. Another thing I love about those "novelty" lures they show u all those big bass they have caught, I caught big bass with it too but I was in a private stocked pond in alabama. Each big bass was caught late in the evening after the sun was below the trees. When I fished it on the rivers it never stood out.I did catch fish but it is not magical like they claim. The best story about the lure is when I let a buddy use it ,he called it a joke I had caught 3 fish, one over 7 lbs ,one 5 lbs and a 2lber and I had only thrown it twice. I told him about those 3 fish and said throw it out and let it flop when it stopped wait a few secs and give a little pull , not to hard because u don't want to move it to far. He was jerking it around like a popper and gave up he said that lure was a joke. I swapped him and just as I told him I didn't jerk it around I let it flop and just pull enough to pull out string and boom I caught another 5+ lb bass. He still talks about that,I was 13 yrs old, that evening I learned two of the biggest keys to catching bass, presentation and a little confidence that u can fool em

In my experience the crankbait is the one lure that if that bass wants to eat that crankbait he eats it so he hooks himself then u just give it a pull. Just remember trebles are smaller than say a 5 0 wide gap worm hook where u can ****** him all the way to the boat, if u try to force a crankbait bass especially bigger ones the hooks can rip out. In my experience I lost more crankbait bass because I tryed to force them to the boat. In the past few yrs I've lost very few I think mainly because I learned to never give em slack, don't let them jump and let em swim u never know when that tail treble is outside of their mouth and only one of those hooks has em a 5lber can make one last lunge by the boat while u have maybe 4 ft of line out and even with mono there is not enough stretch to keep the hooks from tearing out. In short u never know how that bass is hooked on ur crankbait so treat em all like they are barely hooked

I believe the moon phase affects tidal bass the most because the tides are either above normal or below. So after they have a neap tide and it starts changing they know their spawning ground will remain full for them to move in and get it over with. I know on our local river the actual spawn is over in by may and started the last week in march

My go to crank would have to be a shad rap sr8 in silver w black back. Can't beat it the most natural swimming crankbait ever made

Exuse me I meant silver w black back)

Thanks for all the input. Rapala gave me a supplier I never heard of called krugerfarms. They had plenty of gold SR9's and SR8's. I knew there was no way RAPALA would discontinue that color in the 8's or 9's. If I'm not mistaken (gold) and (silver w black black) were some of the original colors they made. Maybe BASS PRO ##### did that because they needed room. To bad you have to be a dealer to order from RAPALA. All the feed back that I have received from this post makes me realize how many fisherman out there really will help. It isn't the lure that catches the fish, its location,presentation,and 85% luck.Check out vintage lures post-my pullcord popper