(='_'=)

unfortunately, fishing season got in the way.... the boat is running great, but all the spare time we get, which is not much, is used for fishing... we have been out only 3 weekends since July, so as you see, we dont have much spare time, and the little we have, we fish.... but we WILL add the deck extension, decals and everything, and, in the future, fix or most probable rebuild the trailer... oh, i forgot, the most recent update was that i replaced the steering wheel, no pics of it though....

thank you Rhino!! the idea is to build a modular hard top for a jeep.... me, and 2 friends studying and engineering on Industrial Design, have jeeps, and they want to build the hardtop since they only have soft tops... im a mechanical engineer but i am good with tools, while they havent built anything yet, so, they asked for my help.... so far i have designed most of the parts, thinking about fitting, protection from the environment, specially rain, and looks... im thinking about using 1/4" plywood for most of it, but some parts may require thicker wood, or 2 layers, to make it thicker... the idea is to end up with something like the BRUTE conversion: but, being able to remove the rear section, in order to be able to have the rear seat for the passengers. so basically, have a BRUTE cabin, but keep the jeeps rear section, so if we remove the rear module of the cabon, we still have a 5 passenger jeep... and, to close it, we will add a tonneau cover... so it would be something like this: but, made out of fiberglass and with the looks of the Brute... is it too ambicious?? we can have it made at a local fiberglass shop, but, it would be expensive, and, we wouldnt learn anything.... i believe in trying to do everything myself, sometimes i succed, sometimes i dont, but everytime, i learn something new... thanx!!!

hey. im helping a friend on a project, and we need to build some parts out of fiberglass. we thought about building a mold, but i know its very difficult to make a good mold, specially of a prototype. so, my idea is to build the parts using plywood, and then, cover them with fiberglass and sand it to get a smooth surface. can this be done?? is there a way to leave the outside of the fiberglass semi smooth in order to reduce the sanding?? and, will the fiberglass get stuck to the plywood properly, or will there be the risk of the fiberglass coming unglued and then i would end up having a bubble between the plywood and the glass?? i post this here because i think some people might have experience working with fiberglass. my only experience was when we covered a small hole on a boat, it has been holding great but stetically its not so good, as it was in a very inaccesible part. thank you!

thanx a lot ghoti!!

sorry to hear that. i will check mine for sure as soon as i get it, thanx!

thanx!! i have the tools and am very handy with them, however i have never taken apart a reel... so ill download an schematic diagram and see what happens... i only have Abu Garcia Reel Oil, is this the only lube i need or should i get something else??

i always heard that recommendation, but then, why is firetiger such a productive color??

do you have a diagram or something to see how to take tem appart?? i have a Code with the same issues, i took apart the left sideplate, removed the spool, and put a drop of Abu Garcia reel oil in there... it diminished the chatter, but not completely... im afraid of damaging something if i keep using it like that... thank you!!

my 6´9" MH intended for spinnerbaits arrived yesterday.... i ordered it on sunday night so i think thats pretty fast shipping... unfortunately it arrived at El Paso Tx and I am south of the border, so i will have it in my hands by October 21 when i travel upnorth for the monthly family visit... i ordered the micro guide as well, and a couple Senko bags, all of which had free home shipping =)

yes, i ordered my Veritas from walmart... im guessing they wont last long...

thanx!! with such positive reviews for the veritas over the vendetta, i guess im keeping that one... now i just have to wait for it to arrive, and hopefully put it to good use this fall and winter...

thanx for the info!! i thought about saving those $20 and get 3 packs of senkos with them... but if the veritas us really better than the vendetta, i guess ill keep it... i specially like it is longer, so i will be able to cast my spinnerbaits farther away.... i hope this wont affect my accuracy much... so, anybody thinks i should rather pick a vendetta and save myself $20?? or do everyone agree the veritas is a better rod?? i heard a couple stories about it breaking during hooksets, any info on that?? thank you!

hey... im in the search for a new spinnerbait rod, which will be paired with a Quantum Code reel i already have... i heard good things about the Abu Garcia Vendetta, but i couldnt find it online at a good price... i did however found a Veritas, 6´9", MH, with free shipping, so i just ordered it yesterday. when i go and pick it up, i may be able to find a Vendetta at the local Academy... they have it marked $20 cheaper than the Veritas.... since i dont know if the Vendetta will be available in 3 weeks when i will make the trip up there, i ordered the Veritas as backup plan... but if i decide to pick the Vendetta, i can always return the Veritas for a full refund.... so, in case i find the Vendetta, which one would you choose?? the vendetta is 6´6", MH as well... i could get that one and save $20, or should i keep the Veritas i have ordered??? this would be used mainly for spinnerbaits, using the Code reel most likely with Fluorocarbon...

thanx for the replies!! i think i would get the Vendetta, but Academy and Basspro have it out of stock online, and cabelas only has it in MH XF. would this XF be a problem?? http://www.cabelas.c...ch-All Products or have you seen it online on another place?? tackle warehouse has it for $80, almost 50% more than Academy... thanx!

thanx, ill take a look at that rod... so, the MH/F is correct?? or should i look for a different action and power? and, wont i loose a lot of accuracy with the longer rod?? i have been wanting a 7´rod for a while to increase casting distance, but for spinnerbaits i like the accuracy i have now....

thats what we use to say also, after releasing a smaller one "now go and call for your grandma".., and if he is medium sized, "go and call your mother"....

before posting i did a thorough search, but could find was i was looking for. i am looking for a new spinnerbait setup, and, so far i learnt that for spinnerbaits, most people prefer a MH rod, Fast tip, in the 6´6"-7´range. right?? well, first of all, let me describe my setups. 1) Falcon Clark Wendlandt, graphite, MH, 6´6", with Quantum KVD reel, for plastic worms, lizzards, senkos, and jigs 2) Browning Silaflex, glass, M, 6´6", with H20 Mettle reel, 14# mono, for crankbaits 3) Jarvis Walker Tuff Tip, glass im assuming, MH (also assuming), 6´6", with Quantum Code reel, 12 fluoro, for spinnerbaits and heavy (deep diving) cranks... now, when i fish spinnerbaits, i like a sideways cast (as if swinging a baseball bat) to send the spinnerbait horizontally under hanging limbs... i have a fairly good accuracy with this cast and can reach deep into the limbs or under bushes. right now, im looking for a better spinnerbait setup, because the jarvis walker is heavy and thick, so i cant wrap my hand around the reel as i like to, and by mid day i begin feeling some pain in the hand joints, and i get tired of the heavier rod... i have tried to cast spinnerbaits with my worm rod, using the same sideways cast, and i dont have the same accuracy... but i dont know exactly why. what would you recomend as a good spinnerbait setup, with a budget of around $80-$100?? i could get only a rod and use the same Quantum Code, or i could get a combo, and use the better reel with the new rod, and leave the other reel with the Jarvis for deep cranks or for lending to friends or something... i was thinking about this one in 6´6", MH, fast: http://www.basspro.com/Abu-Garcia-Silver-Max-LowProfile-Reel/Bass-Pro-Shops-Graphite-Series-Trigger-Rod-Baitcast-Combos/product/11090205011917/ or the black max II combo, i saw one at Academy but i cant find it online... i also saw this one, it has 10 bearings, and aluminium frame. however it comes only in 7´ and i dotn know if i will have the same accuracy with a longer rod. http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-Extreme-Matrix-Baitcast-Combos/product/1202210501011/ or what do you recommend?? thanx.

thanx, thats what i have been doing... i havent experimented much with jigs as i am just learning how to fish plastic worms, and someone told me to first learn how to worm fish and then begin using jigs.... i have been catching some fish with worms so i think my next time out ill give jigs a try...

thanx to both of you!! and, what about these type of trailers? i have some of these, and some jigs, but dont know how to properly rig them... i will try to get me some trailers like the one matstone showed, but in the meanwhile i would like to use the ones i have....

pretty good info, thanx!! would someone have a closeup of how to hook the trailer?? i am new to jig fishing, and im not really sure if i am rigging my trailers correctly.... thanx!

thanx... i dont fish a lot around rocks, even though there are some rocky places that are very productive, these are not the majority of the fishing i do... so ill try the braid and see how i like it, i already am using fluoro and liked it a lot...

ok, i guess ill be using no leader, unless i begin noticing a lot of abrasion on the braid due to the rocks, then i may consider the fluoro leader... now i only have the question about the drag... i dont have a way to measuring the # i have the drag set to, but i always set it to where it will let out line when i pull with moderate force.... then i adjust while fighting the fish... but i dont really know how tight or loose should it be...

thank you very much Deep!! the knot i did was only 4 turns, and i used 15 lb mono to 30 lb braid, so actually the mono was thicker i believe... for the leader i may be using 12 lb fluoro which is smaller, so i think the knot will be almost like your left picture... if you dont have problems with the third pic, i guess i wont have either.... now, what about the rod rating vs braid rating?? i am exceding the rods capacity by 50%... what should i keep in mind?? softer hooksets?? looser drag??

yes, thats what i was thinking.... at least i have now a transducer that actually clicks, and the screen shows something else besides depth and temp.... yesterday night i installed it on the boat, and i used the location where the previous transducer was mounted.... hopefully this location will be better... today after work im heading to the lake to try it out, i will report here and ask a few questions about the readings since i dont know how to interpret the screen... thanx!!

well, yesterday i spooled my reel with the braid... fist i used mono as a backing, and tied the braid with the alberto knot... the knot was very strong, no slip or anything, but, it left a big ball, i was hoping the transition would be smoother but there is a big bump between both... i dont think it will be a problem since the bump is covered with braid and most probably i will never throw my bait far enough for the bump to pass through the reel´s guide... however, if i tie a leader and the bump is of similar size, i think i wont have a smooth cast... this was the first time i tied the knot, so, when finished, how big should it be?? is it noticeable?? i plan on tying a leader with thin fluoro, so i may be getting a smaller knot, but im not sure how big is too big.... and another thing.... how do i avoid damaging the rod, if its rated for 12-20 lbs and my braid is 30 lbs?? how should i adjust the drag?? thanx!!