JIGFISHERMAN.

I must be using the wrong rougue, all mine are not really suspending jerkbaits.

I wonder how many of the people who keep saying "bass have brains the size of a pea" are going to be the next KVD? I mean, it must be easy after all, the bass only have pea sized brains.

I wouldn't say that is the rule by any means. Even on home lakes, I've found you need to experiment with leader length, from day to day, and throughout the day.

Those video's are going to cover anything you want..... So far, I have fished relatively open water, for deeper bass using a drop shot. (that'll change-and the equipment along with it) Use the Spro tiny swivels....They don't break, and eliminate line twist. The stand out hooks are nice, IMO. No matter what the knot does, your lure will stand strait out. I have used 8lb Yo-Zuri Hybrid, and 10lb 100% Flourocarbon. I will be switching to 6lb Y/Z this coming season. I like a heavy weight. To me I want a clear connection between bottom, hook, and rod. It actually makes it easier to have a more subtle action with a heavier weight. In almost all cases I opt for a 3/8oz round weight.......I usually tie a knot in the drop line to keep the weight from sliding off. Plastic of your choice. Poor Boy's, and strike king make my favorites.

Which to me say's alot. He is on a roll, and it would be hard to even say anyone is on the same level as him.......... Now, he wanted it enough, that he invested in the company himself-along with other pro's. And I'll say this, he has enough money, he doesn't need to invest in any kind of "snake oil" as some say.

I've got the KVD game....Not impressed. Might be just me though. I rarely play, and only for a little at a time before I lose interest. Usually only football or racing because of the higher action/pace

I use the Darter jigs from Lure Craft (poor boys). They are less than a buck each, and then I paint them, and tie my own skirts. I use them for everything including wood, except rock. http://www.lurecraft.com/catalog.cfm/lead-products/darter-jig-head:2273 No affiliation.

Never used one, but would like to have one. Might even get one next summer.

No advantage to baitcasting in a finesse situation. Only the opposite is true. Given some wizz-bang big buck tuned Daiwa baitcaster that 'can' throw finesse lures, you still get a slack line fall with a spinning rod, that to me, is important. Rod prices and opinions are so far out there these days that I'm just starting to ignore it all, and get what works for me. Heck, I've got rods that cost me $200 or more that all sorts of people here think are junk, or no good. And to me, a rod that price is a very premium rod. I just can't and won't spend more than that.

This was another band that I used to like alot, and then quit following. 8 piece box was the first album from them I heard. Then followed from there.

OK Please take a minute to hear this. New artist with some soul to his sound. I love it! It's really a shame what urban music has become since the 60's/70's. Most of that crap today is just pure garbage. I can't even tell if some of it is english, or supposed to be a joke or what.

50's, 60's, early to mid 70's rock, very very limited amount of 80's pop/rock, ALL of the 90's including some rap, and MOST OF THE NEW MUSIC TODAY IS PURE GARBAGE Some of the more modern urban music I like is Alicia Keys, and new yet, and GREAT is Aloe Blacc. Also really like fiver finger death punch. Hard rock, but not that growling non sense I can't understand. I listen to almost everything though today's country, 90's rock/pop, and hard rock/not metal octane station, even the message channel-new christian music It's a music conversation but when listening to the xm, I also listen to plenty of talk radio.

To be honest, I still don't know what they are talking about. But, based on the fact they said bushing torn, and looking at the suspension I honestly think you will be fine, likely for a LONG time. The rubber bushings in it's control arms can start to tear, and yet stay intact for a long, long time.

The GS doesn't even have a strut suspension. IMO if the OP does have a shop work on this I would want either a MUCH better explanation of what they are doing, or go somewhere else. It is a dual/unequal a-arm front suspension

I'm positive that if you call Sam, at Stranoparts.com that he WILL get one for you. Old friend of mine, and he knows his stuff.....I've bought everything from race parts for a SCCA Camaro to Brake pads for fullsize Chevy Trucks to Tie rod ends for Land Rover Discovery's

The only thing I can think of with a bushing that could tear, and be called a strut bar is a sway bar or anti-roll bar. Or maybe even the end-links. Endlinks your looking at $50, and an hour of your time tops, based on ZERO repair experience. Entire sway bar, just as easily done by someone with no experience, but a little longer time. Possibly more money depending on if the mounting brackets need to be replaced.

I've used both.....Honestly, light weight and ergonomics matter a bunch so I prefer a low profile reel. And I say that being a VERY recent convert to low pros. As in the last 3-4 years or so.

If you are talking anti-roll bar, then yes you should be fine to drive it like it is for a little while. That should be a pretty cheap/easy fix though.

not sure what you are talking about when you say strut bar and bushing Any more specific description? When you say strut bar, that is a term that lots of folks use for the underhood bracing that runs from side to side, and sometimes triangulates to the windshield/firewall area.

ideally I would organize tackle by lake. Even if lots of the stuff carried over to other lakes, each lake had it's own. Then I could have all my 3700's in a carrier and pull the entire thing and change, based on the lake I'm fishing. Might even do something like that in the boat....Make it easy to pull a group of 3700's at once. Also, I'm interested in how everyone organizes there crankbaits.

Isn't it really clear water? Fish spawn location will influence fish location throughout a bunch of the year, but if it is deep clear like I'm thinking there could be a bunch of fish spawning in 15' of water. Deep/clear could be Gull and not Gun

Not sure, but I'll bet if you see Randy walking around in D&R, he'll tell you. I've never fished it myself, but if you want a boat partner for pre-fishing or whatever let me know. Same offer to you down here on Klinger. I'll likely be going by myself more times than not so I'll have an open spot.

My brother has been through all but the very premium flouro. He prefers this stuff over other brands. Including 100% from Berkley (which I have used, and felt it was pretty decent stuff) FWIW, lots of people hated the stuff back then when he first starting using it. I have fished with it some, on one of his rods while out fishing, and it seemed to be pretty decent. I ran some tests with it, a scale, and weights and found it to be pretty close to the listed break strength. If I see a drawback I would say it is, that it is stiff. He uses lots of 8lb on spinning rods and those large spool BPS spinning reels so maybe the large spool reel eliminates any line management problems.

I'll tag on to this original question and say that I AM curious about the sensitivity.

I use a snap, no swivel on cranks/jerkbaits. This makes changing baits easy, but I don't do allot of changing. It, IMO, lets the bait move more freely than if I tied directly to the split ring. Other than that, the only time I use a swivel on is drop shot rigs. A tiny Spro swivel works for me here. I would use just a snap. No extra weight, and a smaller profile. For my use, only certain things will twist my line, and make me WANT a swivel. When using those I don't want the large profile snap/swivel near my lure (regardless what it does to the action) In this case I would use the Spro swivels I talked about. http://www.spro.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=SPSB-ALL