jkarol24

I prefer the older ones simply because they feel better in my hand. Not sure why, but they do... as well, they can be found for alot cheaper. Im not sure how to explain in technical terms the size diffrence, but its slight. Little bigger spool, bail, body/frame, ect. The only major functional difference is that a larger spool gives you more line intake, slightly farther casting and slightly less line twist and memory.

I realy enjoy my powells!

The supremes are good reels. You may actually want to look for the old model supreme XT reels (gold/yellow in color), and the 9230XT would be a good size. The old models were EXCELENT. I prefer a little larger reel myself however, i have a size 35.

Before I talk about baits, it important to first explain the location of the bass. The rain begins and runoff starts to occur. This runoff is carrying little insects and yummy morsels from land into the water for baitfish to eat (shad in your case). Further, this rain will also add a tint of color to the water, further pulling in bait to the banks or in the grass. Even more, this runoff will warm the near-shore waters, again attracting shad. Now the bass arent dumb, you can bet they will be close behind those shad looking for an easy meal. So I would be trying to mimick the shad, whether it be a spinnerbait, shallow crank, or a buzzbait. A fast moving silver frog over the grass would also do the trick. Mimick the shad in shallow areas and you will find the bass ready to eat.

Cheaper to buy the hat and sticker than buy one of their rods

Im one of those people. It becomes a little harder and does go through the line guide easier with less wear and tear on the connection knot.

Open water- 8 or 10 are fine Around docks, laydowns, grass, etc i would go with 12 or maybe even 15

Im thinking about using some of that heavy duty plastic decking instead of plywood for a new hatch cover. Just a thought...

The only time i put nails in a wacky rig is if im not actually wacky rigging, but instead Neko rigging. The hook goes in the same place but a nail goes into the head of the worm so it ends up sinking headfirst. If actually wacky rigging and need a bit more speed on the fall, or in heavier cover i use an Owner wacky jig (1/32-1/8 oz)

Just found out that i didnt get in... Thanks for the help though

Quick question, I just bought an old '84 bass boat with 2 livewells (1 infront, one in back) and pump along with spray bars connected to the hose from the main pump, but there is no aerator/recirculator. So the question is: Do i constantly run the main pump and let the excess water go out the overflow pipes? Do i fill them with water, add an additive and change water every hour or so? Or do i need to buy aerator pumps that go inside the well to recirculate? Thanks for the help!

Probably not, but im neither a fish nor a scientist. Its all about confidence.... However, any color is better than plain due to the fact that the paint helps protect the shape of the leadhead.

I just bought my first boat, but fish all of last year as a co-angler... The single most important thing for me wasn't the lure to throw, a certain technique, or anything like that. IMO the most important thing is how well you can cast. Im not talking distance, but accuracy, skipping, backhanded, and pinpoint casts. Up here in the north, guys fish alot of docks and shoreline cover. For instance, i was fishing with a boater who could pitch to the edges of docks and pontoon boats, but could not skip lures under the boats or far back into them. It just so happens that fish were not on the edges of boat docks, but were way in the back in the shade. Therefore, my casting proficiency allowed me to outfish the boater. Docks are the same way. If you can skip a lure further back and more accuratly, you will be fishing new and untouched waters that the boater simply couldnt get to.

Me too! I always throw a plastic or jig with a "certain" flake in it as well. Not sure i want to reveal the color though

Sounds similar to trolling a flasher/dodger and fly for salmon, except on a smaller scale. The only problem is that you need a pretty large spoon to make the trailing lure kick out.

Silver when clear Gold when murky

Depends on forage and light conditions. If its a shad/ shiner lake, i will go with something with glitter in silver. Early morning or dusk, a black works well.

I decided to get into baitcasting a few years ago and at the same time, Gander Mtn was unloading their old model Revo Premiers at 50% off ($130). Needless to say, i learned how to use a baitcaster VERY fast Great investment, i now own 6 more baitcasters...

I love my powell max 6'8" M extra fast spinning rod. Very light, good backbone, and very sensitive!

I use braid 100% of the time fishing plastics such as senkos. Learning to be a line watcher will improve your catch rate dramatically.

Exactly the same thing! They are fairly hard to come by however, most get them done custom. They are pretty simple, just a metal punchout with lead added.

You just described mine... As long as it wont effect preformance, i guess it can wait on a fix. The fix would probably be more than the actual motor is worth ('84 150 hp Mercury black max)

The old gold supreme XT is also a winner and can be found at a very good price!

Therefore, be a line watcher!! Braid floats and is easy to see on top of the water. Stare at it, any movement should result in a solid hookset.

$150 on a 3 bank charger. Walked directly to the charger and walked directly to check out. I have to put on blinders in there or else i WILL go broke...