iabass8

4300 RPM WOT....47mph at WOT..200hp 2 stroke..sounds like it could be down a cylinder. I would stay away or at the very least pay to get it checked out. Do a compression test AFTER you run the engine. Compression #s should be within 10 of each other. Bottom 2 might be lower than top 4 and thats ok. For reference, I had a 175 johnson faststrike v6 /w 25p ss prop and hit 58-60 at 5600 RPM on a 19' ranger. Before I sold that boat and upgraded new, i think my compression numbers were all between 103-105. Those old 2 strokes are great but something sounds wrong with that GT based on your info.

Pretty sure 4500-5500 is your WOT range. Idle should be 6-750(ish). Disconnect the battery and Pull the tach off the dash. Make sure all the connections are clean of corossion (especially the grey wire). Theres a knob on the back of the tack that will have a flat head groove to move it. Move it back and forth between the different cylinder settings(2,4,6,etc) and the put it back to you engines correct cylinder setting. Sometimes this setting can get bumped off and you need to toggle it around and then back. Put it back in the water to test it. Starting it on muffs will give you a false rpm reading. On muffs, your RPMs will be higher by about 2-300.

O m g

You should return the reel...

Psycho Dad

I would never throw a hard head on the 733 unless you're using a light wire hook on a light head. Tommy Biffle throws them on a flipping stick and heavy fluoro. There's a few videos of him explaining why on youtube. I personally use the DX745 for the 7/16 and 1/2oz sizes. They key to fishing them is keeping constant bottom contact and keeping them moving. I imagine it would be counterproductive to fish a 5/16 head in 18 FOW as you'll have to slowly crawl it which defeats its purpose. I'll occasionally throw the 3/8oz size on wingdams for smallmouth but that's in maybe 4-7 FOW. I'd use your 7'2 Heavy. Your MH would be fine but I don't like using an XF tip for hardheads. Just personal preference.

17 days to draft day!

It usually is something stupid. Glad you got it squared away.

Ive done that Once on my dualpro. I believe the bank just flashed a single red light when hooked up incorrectly. Mine is the 3bank/15a so it could be different than his. OP, did you plug anything else in to the outlet your ex. Cord runs from? Ive had mine go bad. Verify the outlet is good. your charger hooks up identical to mine. I run a heavy duty ex. Cord to the boat and plug it in. As long as its hooked up correctly, your outlet, cord, or charger is bad. Sounds like outlet or cord leaning more towards outlet. Unit being dead would be strange but possible.

Kind of silly but you do have the charger hooked up to each battery right? Theres a positive and negative lead for each bank.

your outboard, if working properly, will charge your cranking battery but short runs and lots of fishing/running electronics/pumps/etc won't fully charge your battery unless you make a long(ish) run to fully charge it. Plug it in at the end of the day. there should be a power cord coming from the on board charger or a receptacle built into the boat for the charger that the cord runs to. plug that in. if you're not getting anything you may want to examine the charger itself.

1. Easy fix. Learn to back up with the side view mirrors. I haven't used my rear view mirror or turned around in years. 2. No, you wouldn't think there is a standard length as not every vehicle to trailer will be the same length. Just get some new ones. 3. Take out the rod organizer. I've never had them in my boats and would never want them. They take up an unnecessary amount of space and limit storage. 1. Again, learn to back up with side view mirrors. It's ridiculously easy. 2, You're better off unplugging the boat's speedometer and leaving it. It isn't an accurate gauge of speed and will almost never read accurately. Any marine mechanic will tell you the same thing. Use your GPS on your electronics for an accurate reading. 3. You've already been instructed to check the bulbs earlier. 4. It's called a system check. Any system check gauge I've used was initiated turning the key to the "on" position which had a "hard stop". Then I would turn the key to fire it up. No idea if yours is supposed to stop. That would have been a question for the mechanic that checked out your boat. 5. They are great and a cheap fix. 6. I've explained this to you before. You should have a charger for every battery on your boat. Yes, your outboard does charge your battery while running but what most people don't realize a short 5-10 min run doesn't fully charge a battery even at WOT. If you are short runs each time or simply make a couple miles run and stop to fish all day and then take the same trip back, you are never fully charging your battery that runs everything on your boat aside from your TM. Your battery is left being uncharged which will lead to failure. Get a 3 bank charger or a remote charger to hook it up to when you're done. Playing a guessing game each time is stupid. I've had one of these on my past 2 boats. Never had an issue. Awesome charger. https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Pro-Bank-Professional-Charger/dp/B0000XQ76S

i took 350 hours of the maths

350 cm

35.0 mm

I see no issue with that list

3.50 mm

it's probably fine. You'll know if it's not when using it. There's hundreds of videos on youtube on how to disassemble and clean reels. Get a casting reel cover for 5-6$ to avoid this from happening agian.

Lots of reviews say the levante was a disappointment

So you want to kill the motor for 30 seconds to a minute only to just crank it back up....? I think we have two different views of common sense.

I use seafoam and startron in every single fill up. I add stabil when my boat has to sit for longer than 2 weeks when in use or when it's stored in the winter. I never had a fuel issue on my 2 stroke and it ran like a top.

It's a discontinued St. Croix Rage rod that's been around for 4-5 years. If you want one, they're 89$ in the st. croix bargain bin.

pointless to color it. dont bother.

Amazing deal.