iabass8

you are set up correctly wiring wise. I don't have an issue using a cheap walmart MaXX 29g for my trolling motor batteries because if they fail, there's a walmart almost everywhere where I can get them replaced. I do however never go cheap on the cranking battery as it runs all my pumps, motor, electronics, etc. You want something with the most reserve you can afford. I like something 200+ reserve. You don't make long runs it sounds like so the more reserve you can find in a cranking battery in your budget, the better. Just make sure it has enough CCA/MCA to start your motor. I don't know the specifics of a 90h merc but I can't imagine the requirements are too high. I You should be charging your batteries directly after you get off the water. You are running them down low, letting them sit for what sounds like a few weeks at a time, and then charging them. You're killing the batteries. You're having cranking battery issues because your motor isn't charging the battery. A few mile run generally isn't enough to fully charge a cranking battery. Yours don't seem to be holding a charge for the reason I stated above. However...it doesn't sound like your rectifier/ regulator is working anyway. Your engine should be charging your cranking battery after 1500 rpms(ish) to WOT. You should see a voltage of 14.5 give or take when cruising and then, assuming it's charged and your battery is good, a reading of 12.6 at rest. You aren't seeing anything. That's bad. Even if it was working it doesn't sound like your batteries are holding a charge anyway. I'm guessing you need 2 new batteries and a, hopefully, just a new rectifier that is very simple replacement. Hopefully it isn't a combination of the stator, rectifier, voltage regulator, etc.

sunline FC sniper 7#.

A handful of people over on TT have had them for a little while now.

Don't let this man steer you astray. He will start PM'ing you swimsuit pics.

Started using the Gamakatsu G-Finesse Series Wacky Jig Head earlier this year and have no issues with it. If you can't hook them on that head you're doing something wrong. Usually use 1/16oz but have 1/8oz for other things.

I'm a little more OCD about that stuff than others and would, personally, have the pitch adjusted to cater to the correct RPM range (assuming your tach is correct of course). You stated that your engine was trimmed up a little more than normal and that will make your RPMS rise a bit as you are aware. If you are trimmed level at WOT and getting 5500 I wouldn't worry about it but I would still have the pitch adjusted back to 21. It's really cheap to have that done. I'm sure Way2Slow can give you a much better answer.

Get yourself one of these. You can find them almost everywhere.

You might want to be looking up the correct boat for him before giving him what he should and shouldn't be looking for...The ad in question is for a 2006, not a 2005(your link is the 2005). 2006 175's have a max HP of 130. http://www.72marine.com/new_vehicle_detail.asp?veh=32399&CatDesc=&=#detail

Max HP on a 17.5' ranger is 130. Not drastically under powered but it depends on the engine condition.

More curious rather than excited about what gloomis new focus on "balance" means to them on the new glx

Ha, no. Must be bad

That price seems to have some personal value rather than actual market value in it based on his post. It does look like that boat was ridiculously well taken care of though . By the pictures it looks almost show room new which is a really good find. I wouldn't pay his asking price but it's probably not too far off with the condition that it's in. I don't know the specifics about that particular hull Storage wise but personally I wouldn't pay that for a boat that had short rod lockers. That's just a personal opinion though. I have a lot of 7'3" + rods that I want to be able to store in the locker and not on the deck in the way boat should run around 45-50. My old ranger with the 175 on the back and a four blade 25 pitch prop ran 58 to 60 .

Lots of boats have lifetime hull warranties but have to be transferred owner to owner I believe. That's something you should look into and I believe is boat specific for the warranty. That warranty generally only covers manufacture defects. Hull damage is covered under collision insurance assuming you hit something. Mechanical issues, assuming you go with an older motor, can be covered under insurance now. Progressive has mechanical insurance that they now offer for such things. I'm not completely sure the full extent of it because I do not have it. My motor is brand-new and has an eight year full warranty. If you go new, motors generally come with a three year full warranty and a 5 to 6 year extension of a full warranty is offered for a very small price. One thing you want to look at when you get insurance is how collision repairs are handled. If you have an older motor some plans will only pay a depreciated value for a motor repair or lower unit rebuild. Other plans will have a higher deductible but will replace the damaged unit with new in the same situation. Don't ever go cheap with boat insurance. The second an accident happens you'll be kicking yourself because you got cute trying to save 50 bucks.

Yes, Stratos makes a good boat. I really like the layout of their new 2016 294xle. Old fishing buddy used to have an 06 or 07 Stratos that was ridiculously under powered /w a 60hp merc but it was a good boat. Slow...but not a bad boat. As for where they fall in line with others... Depends who you ask. Some swear by them. Some don't. There is no right or wrong answer.

Stratos makes a lot of boats....which one?

Depends on the size of the boat from different years. For example, 18' rangers in the 90s usually came /w Rod lockers that could only accompany 7' (ish) rods. Nowadays it's pretty standard in the present for 18' boats of most brands to have 7'6-8' rod lockers. I see more 8' rod lockers on new 18ft boats now. Older Ranger consoles were a little cramped but most bass boats were back then when you are 6'3. If you aren't used to newer, more spacious boats than you probably won't notice it. Know exactly what you want and look for it in boats. Lots of unique storage out there. Even better if you go brand new. Every boat brand has a pretty good following. It's actually pretty hard to pick a bad boat if you go brand new.

The grinding could be a a couple things. The spool may not be fully seated in the pinion. If it is out of line, it will do exactly what you are describing. IF it were seated correctly you would still be able to reel in line but it would just feel rough. Being as you are unable to even reel in the line and getting a grinding feeling, that leads me to believe the spool may not be seated. When it becomes unseated, the spool and pinion are not working together and reeling will be intermittent. The bearing side of the spool has a "t" that sits in the pinion under the handle. It's a gold gear that has 4 slits in it. pop the side plate off and remove the spool. Put it back in and make sure it's seated correctly. Make sure it's in there by feeling for it dropping in. Also make sure your cast control knob is functioning. The gears may not be seated correctly or the pinion housing could be upside down under the handle. Doubtful since his happened before you sent it to Daiwa but still. The screeching could be the pinion bearing, bad spool bearings, dirty spool bearings. too much oil on the spool shaft, etc. You could sent it to DVT (site sponsor) and he could fix it for you.

pretty simple solution to find out the answer. Drive over to his house and have him call the finance company in front of you on speak to find out where it is. Titles shouldn't take almost 3 weeks to receive in the mail.

Older Ranger hulls are quite popular and for good reason. My old ranger 482 was a fantastic ride even in rough water. Storage was a bit lacking in relation to newer models but it did okay. I really like the new Nitros but the I have heard a lot of horror stories about the hulls from 10-15 years ago. I wouldn't be concerned /w them now. If you want a Ranger, you/re going to have to pay to play. That's just the nature of the brand. early to mid 90's rangers in good shape /w decent 2 stroke's on the back will set you back 5k-8k on average and the price will only go up from there. They hold their value really well. Just find a boat you like /w the right amount of storage and have it checked out by a trustworthy mechanic. Inspect it for soft spots, gel coat cracks, make sure the transom isn't cracked, etc. It's about as simple as that. Spend the 100-200$ and have the mechanic do a complete inspection of the Lower unit + motor. If everything checks out take it for a ride and go from there. Never...ever buy a used boat without having it checked out by a professional unless you are very familiar /w the motor. There's too many boat brands to give a rating to and to be honest it would be a waste of time. Every boat company has made good and bad boats. Company X could be crap to person A but person B never had an issue. Find one you like. If you're looking at 2001-present that's quite the big price /year gap. Not knowing your price range I would go new.

Nope. Those dividers are pretty snug. I used a small bead of super on the bottom of my DS and wacky hook dividers just in case. No issues. I also like the plano waterproofs with the 3 latches and red gasket. I keep certain soft baits in those.

I use 1 3700 red coffins for terminal and 1 3700 deep red for jigs. Love them. They have tons of storage and my stuff never gets messed up.

Lots of todays new walking baits are getting more user friendly. Specifically, the terminator walking frog and a lucky craft sammy are two of the easiest baits to walk I've ever used and are for the most part idiot proof.

x2. I will on occasion put a light coat of oil on the brake drum on a few of my older 50 size shimanos but I don't ever oil the brakes.