iabass8

When does the alarm go off? At a certain RPM, idle, all the time? sounds like there could be junk blocking the water flow. are the water passages in the head partially clogged? Junk stuck in the impeller, stuck/bad thermostats could cause this as well.

should be 3x10x4

7'6 Heavy Fast

I had a similar issue /w old wiring. Wayne instructed me to make sure my wiring was solid and all my electronics were ran directly to the battery and not to the dash. Ran new 12 or 14g marine grade wire (maybe Wayne can tell you what gauge exactly), from bow and helm back to the cranking battery. Soldered, heat shrink, and electrical tapped over the heat shrink connections. Installed a 3a blade fuse at the battery for each unit. Worked like a charm. If that doesn't work I would assume it's your unit. Wayne is the expect though. It wouldn't hurt to just pick up some new marine wire and make up some test cables to run the new unit to the battery to rule out bad wiring.

iboats google... i searched for what you want and it came up with a full page of answers. Use a search engine..

Ugh scratch it. You can't do it in ESPN Playoffs would be the same 1v1. You just play 26 games instead of 13 during the season. You use 1 lineup vs 2 different opponents each week instead of 1. The 2nd person you're playing plays you and somebody different than your other opponent. It's pretty fun but it does take out the weekly "must win" excitement. You can go 0-4 in 1v1 and be in must wins each week. You can go 0-8 in 1v2 leagues and still be fine.

Does anybody else think it would be fun to have 2 match ups per week? ( everyone would play multiple people each week ) If we only have eight teams again it would be a pretty fun way to even out the variance.

Tatula Ct / dobyns 735 fury or savvy.

The 115 is the max HP for the hull but relative to the majority of 18+ foot bass boats it's under powered. That's what we are referring to. Most bass boats, especially ones from 2014......, will accommodate around 150. If top end speed isn't what you're after then it won't bother you much cruising 48(ish). It's "smaller' than your normal 18+ ft bass boat. I've only stepped on the front deck of a 186 and sat in it at Cabelas out of curiosity. The whole hull just feels small and cramped but that's just a personal opinion. It's hard to say whether you would feel cramped or not. You would have to stand in it yourself. The boat will be plenty stable and if you remove the butt seat on the deck and fish alone up front you won't notice it being smaller than normal. Keep in mind, assuming you are going to get a 3 bank charger instead of his 2, you are immediately out of pocket for a new on-board charger and bow electronic. The 4 year warranty on the motor is nice though. Center seat should just fold up and unbolt like said above. I hate a middle seat. It's the exact spot everybody, including myself, steps to get to the back deck. I always have a storage counsel in the middle.

bass mafia blade box. that is one awesome spinnerbait/buzzbait box. The new terminal box looks over the top. The standard coffin is great as is and probably holds more.

I don't think you're going to get him to budge on the price. You may be able to get a little lower but that's a pretty fair deal.Especially with the motor having 4 years left on the warranty. Looks like there's no electronics on the bow. It's a pretty stock boat /w little upgrades aside from the helm electronics which are good. Looks really clean. You could try 18,500. A 2016 186 VLO starts are 23,295 but has a 12v TM and older electronics. You have a little wiggle room /w the 19.5 but not a ton. It's strange a 19' glass boat is only rated for up a 115. It looks like the boat tops out around 48-50mph according to a couple people on various forums. The new 186's are rated to 140. Weird. I've seen this 2014 or 2015 186 sitting in the cabela's parking lot /w a 90 on the back. Boat just seems really small. It's been in the lot for a year or so. A lot of "stock" boats come with a dual charger only for your TM even when equipped /w 2 TM batteries + cranking battery. A (working) motor chargers your battery while running but, personally, I have a charger on every battery in the boat when it's plugged in. Some people think that because a motor charges your battery while running you don't need to charge it overnight but it takes a lot longer runs than what people think to fully charge your battery so if you make short runs every time you aren't ever charging your cranking battery to the fullest which will lead to problems eventually. Long story short...if you have 3 batteries on the boat, get a 3 bank charger.

Tackletrap is awesome. Use code TT10.

There's a new product from Minnkota that does what you're asking. I've never heard of anybody doing this or even wanting to do it due to how long good deep cycle batteries last and having a 24v or 36v system. I'm sure somebody has done it. However, if your TM is capable of running a 24v system, your battery issues will go away will likely go away...

This graph is bigger than my desktop computer monitor...yes, that's a 24 inch graph. Just read they are 12k a piece. Wonder if they will have to repitch their prop after losing top end speed due to wind resistance...

I don't believe so, no. Most marinas carry them though. Just tell them your model and they will look it up. Buy a few...I try to keep 3 on hand.

You did the right thing. I would have struggled not to get into with him . Hats off for keeping your cool. Any marine mechanic worth your time will have gas and a battery on site. (most likely will have a lot more than they need of each). He told you to take what you didn't want stolen..and you did just that. I would have done the exact same thing.

That's the point I was getting at. They werent identical but a smaller version was something that was done before. I can see what I posted would be construed as something different though

Touche sailor!

Xzylum is our newest member! Jrob finally figured out how to use paypal

I've never had a broken rod shipped to me by a vendor but I have had the incorrect rod shipped to me. Both times they sent me out the new rod immediately with a return shipping label. I had to put the incorrect rod in the tube the new rod came in when /i received it and slap the new return label on it and drop it off. They said I had X amount of time to do so or they would charge me for the new rod that was sent. I think they said I had 2 weeks. I assume you're going to be in the same situation.

I almost bought the panfish series for stream trout. Go UL for those weights. Plus...UL are just plain fun to fish.

Looks like shimano uses seaguide seats on their surf rods. If it's comfortable, stop worrying about. If it's not, get a different reel seat. People have 30 year old lightning rods with working reel seats. You'll be fine.. Choose your own next time you go custom. That's the point of a custom rod.....unless this was a gift. If it was a free gift, deal with it.

Looks like you caught that bad boy just time. I too would guess the voltage regulator and rectifier went bad but it's just a guess. Based on your info I can't see it being anything else. I believe the 2 red, 1 gray, and 2 yellow should go directly to your voltage regulator. If you have the engine manual it can walk you through step by step on how to test each component to make sure you didn't do any more damage to the Stator or rectifier. You can purchase it through Mercury's website I believe if you don't have it. I would recommend getting it. They are ridiculously handy. Checking the system is pretty straightforward stuff that involves a multi meter. Personally, I always go OEM replacing anything. I don't like to go cheap. Make sure you clean your battery connections, too. Use locking nuts over wingnuts to keep those connections tight. Hopefully your only out a couple hundred bucks instead of thousands for a new motor. If you aren't handy, just take it into a Mercury Dealer. Assuming it is indeed just your voltage regulator/rectifier, it shouldn't take any qualified mechanic longer than 1 hour of shop time + parts. Always, always, always charge your batteries up after each use.

I'm sure Wayne may be able to give you a better answer than what I am about to guess but Humminbird stating that the unit will not work with voltage under 10.8 may be referring to, sometimes, when you crank your big motor the voltage will drop down into the 11.6 (ish) or even lower range when cranking and then immediately return to normal voltage. If you are cranking your motor and the voltage drops below 10.8, the unit will shut off. I've never had my battery drop below 11 when cranking my big motor. Just going by 12v battery voltage charts, 11.67 is considered 20% and I'm guessing that due to the load on the battery from the electronics and it being so low, it's shutting down. Charge your battery. If you charged your battery days prior to going out and then it read 11.67 when you plugged in the unit, your battery is toast. It should still read full or close to it.