RobertBG

I've used toggle bolts seeled with 3m 5200 in a similar situation.I swapped out the screw for a stainless one,and used the 5200 to bed the cleat in so it won't leak

I'd been around boats all my life but I got my first real boat when I was 14,it was a 14 ft checkmate that.I had to mow a lot of lawns for The most important thing my dad told me was WHEN you forget the drain plug just floor it and figure it out later.Fast forward a few years and a few boats,but one thursday i wanted to get my hydrostream on the lake before the crowds arived,so I hitched her up drove around the lake to the ramp and launched it myelf.As I'm about to pat myself on the back while backing away from the dock I feel water rush past my feet............yup forgot the plug.So I floored it like I was told.I ended up beaching it at the park swimming beach and hoofing it back to my house where my dad was sitting in his chair with the plug in his hand.

If you do forget the plug at some time remember one thing...............full throttle is your friend just dont ask me how I know this

I have tried but have yet to find a TRUE senko replacement.................duribility be damned I have yet to find a senko replacement,when I want fish in the boat senko it is.That is till I run out of them then and only then shall i fish a replacement. I would recomend learning how to pour somthing close before trying others but that is just me

I like my 6 shooters and gold triggered over unders......................I feel they offer enough for my families protection if the need arises for the time being.Although I'm looking to relocate to a concealed carry state.As far as guns on the boat go,my boat is not a bass boat but it does have a legal long arm within reach at all times,and trust me it doesnt take long to drop a few shells if need be

growing up in a very humid climate rust was always a issue,While some may scoff at it my dad always used good ole wd 40 or crc.Clean and coat em lightly before locking them in a safe in a less then perfect enviroment.The only issue i ever found in doing so has been with the wood and that is nothing a good piano wax(true carnubua) has never taken care of.

I think while it is going to be rough on the sprt fish such as bass and walleye,in time they will rebound.I'm more concerned with the effects on threatened species like some of the sturgeon etc

Not to try and steer you away from live bait,but I had a friend who almost always fished bluegills and such.There where days here and there where he would do well and others when it was nothing.I on the otherhand fished senko's and only senkos and almost always cought more fish,so many that he switched and started doing the same.now this was when i had got back into fishing and I have since progressed and learned to catch em other ways,but it's well worth a try Oh and as far as topwater stuff like buzzbaits and frogs go........................the first time you see a nice fish break the surface and smash the living ..... out of one (whether or not you hook into it) you will be hooked I promise. In short if gills arent working try something else................senko's and the like a proven and easy starting point. Fish on

They do cavitate a lot,it's just with the weight of 2 big motors hanging off the back he can get them to bite enough to pop it up. My old Hydrostream would stand up like that,but couldnt hold it too well...................I still remeber being 17 and dropping the hammer on a 17ft Hydro with a modified 200 hp mercury B max hanging off the back.........All I remember is seeing the sky I don't know how that boat didn't kill me It also had a nasty chine walk around 70mph unlike that second video it was easier to just power through it and she'd flatten out.

I dont know........why not rig up 2 of the same baits and fish them both to find out?

There was a bass that was legendary in a lake i used to fish,called the one eyed bass.................he/she eventually ended up as a mount after passing #10 10.6 to be exact and that was only because it was gut hooked As for how to prevent it,I stopped using ewg hooks,I've learned to catch more fish yet still have yet to hit one in the eye with a normal hook

weightless senko with either a 2-3/0 hook fished like a jerk bait over cover

no need to buy a special tool,just find a peice of metal line from home depot's plumbing section that is just large enough to drop a senko inside,grab some orings while there and go fishing.Slide the rings onto the tube,insert senko and pop a ring on where you want it.

yes and no...................my best days and worst days have come after it has rained.I still have yet to figure out why but either way in my case it is 50/50 chance it will be a very good day for me after a rain.I like those odds and tend to fish after it rains

do you have a manual for the motor?If not google the year make and model I'm sure someone will have it listed somewhere.

http://www.ehow.com/how_7901528_do-wire-tachometer-johnson-outboard.html This is not the best information but it will give you a good idea of what is required to install a tach.

lets start with the fuel guage.....................now most of the boats i have worked on are bigger but for the most part they are the same.You will need a multi meter and be able to pull the sending unit.When you pull the sending unit take it out and attach your multi meter,one lead to the base plate and one to the tab for a wire conectorwith the meter set to read ohms.......1-10 ohms is about the range you want,Now move the float through its range of motion while watching the readings of the meter.Now I forget what the most common scale is,but if it moves from near zero to say 4 or 8 ohms your sender is working and we can find you a guage based on these readings.............if it doesnt move we'll work on finding out why later oh and I have scene 2 types of sending units.............one is a lever on a float and the other is like a cork screw with a float..............either way just move the float and check the ohms as this is what the guage reads in order to see how much fuel is in the tank...............one last side note it is rare a fuel guage is completely accurate in a boat,just keep this in mind the first time out on the lake speedometer,as far as I know(again been a few years so things may have changed)but all the ones I have scene use some sort of pitot tube mounted off the transom.basicly it reads the amount of water and or how fast the water is moving..............when installed from the factory they are pretty acurate but I have never had luck on non factory installs(it can be done but takes trial and error along with a tach and gps)Now I am not trying to say don't do it,I would just recomend HIGHLY to do a tach first or if you have to choose one do the tachometer first. Tachometer installation................your engine will have a tach signal wire that will send the information the the guage,hook this up to a tach that can read the number of cylinders you have along with power when the ignition is on and you are good,no sending unit required I recently looked at your other thread and saw the stripped wiring...............I would have done the same but you are going to want to install panels that work when the ignition is on to make things correct,neater and easier to install...................I'll check online in a few to see if I can find a example for you

congrats on the tv time and all but even more so on fishing with a bullet they are the one bass boat I'd like to own

I dont see where it says it includes the "sending unit" but first check your tank chances are if it is a built in tank it may have one already.If your tank is built in it will have a opening somewhere on top with a few screws a gasket and more then likely a tab to hook up a wire for the guage.................try and locate it pull if possible and or take a pic so we can better help you.As far as adding a speedometer,I see you mentioned you are only replacing a few of the guages........I would add a tachometer to measure rpm's LONG before putting a speedometer in a boat.First off it is easier to install but besides that it is VITAL to know what your engine is doing before anything else like a speedometer(that are not acurate to begin with).I know from your other thread that you will use this boat for more then one thing and also that you have added some weight by modifications.While chnces are the weight is not a big issue a tachometer is one guage i think you should not go without

I'd move the battery,and cooler to the front,and see if that helps or you could try a tiller extension that would allow you to sit in the middle.If that seems like too much work my buddy just tossed 2 cinder blocks in the bow.............one had a rope tied to it for his hillbilly anchor as he called it

I like the looks of the product,the fact that it is made in the USA is a big plus for me,and I'll be placing a order this fall when I return to the states.I plan on using it on a frogging setup I've been wanting to put together and the little extra leverage should allow me to use a current reel vs buying a new one (I hope). Only thing I'd like to add is that while you gave me a quick reply in the other thread,I think a good addition to your website would be to state where you guys make the things as I couldn't find it when i looked I personally don't mind spending a few more dollars (within reason)for a product of equal or better quality that is made in the USA................I'm sure others in our sport are of the same thinking too.

Decent price if you if you ask me,especialy considering it is made in the US

when i fish areas with a lot of pressure I drop my line size,even more so important imo on clear water. just my $.02

where is it made?

I do the same except I first put the o rings on a copper tube,drop the senko inside and then pop the oring on them.