BassnChris

Yeah......weighed the electric steer option...........probably should have gone that way but decided against it and went with a cable steer. can't move it.............the rib is in the middle of where it needs to go. found a post or two regarding installation on a procraft......he cut thru it and then reinforced it.......not sure how. I think I will probably continue without the recess tray because it does not sound like a sound decision to cut through the support. That's a decision you make wrong and it will cost ALOT of $$$ to fix.

Hey Mike, I'm in.......just let me know what plan develops!

I was going to install a trolling motor pedal recess tray. After reaching in under the deck it feels like there is a rib or some type of reinforcing fold in the fiberglass where I would be cutting into the deck. I have just about decided that cutting into that rib or reiinforcement fold would not be a good idea and I would be better off skipping the recessed pedal tray all together. OR Have I mis-appraised the situation?

welcome.................I always wanted to be stationed at Whiteman.........the AF had different wants.......that was along time ago.

lots of info here. welcome.

welcome aboard.

good sound advice.................and if the holes do not match just make new ones......nothing else you can do about that......although I filled my old holes that did not line up with silicone just to keep the water out.

Gotcha Rhino. I notice a few weeks ago that the marine silicone I bought and used on my last fish finder setup was not rated for above and below the water line........I had no issues with it and those holes have since been repaired by my fiberglass guy. So I bought a tube that is rated for above and below the water line. And thanks...the countersink idea is right on with what I did for my TM install. Thanks.....greats advice all round.

An FYI.....the cleats on my boat have nuts on them as well.

Probably not. There is a panel with a couple of switches and what not at he bow of most if not all bass boats. Mine has 6 screws and comes off easy. I recommend long sleeves to protect your arms. Just have to reach under and find the nuts to get a wrench on them....not very tough really. My new MG has rubber isolator s with a threaded brass piece so it can be installed without having to reach under and use nuts.......I am kind of worried about not having nuts on it. I guess it works like an expansion bolt in concrete. But yeah.....I doubt you busted anything.

Can you not just loosen the clamp and remove the trolling motor and leave the mount on there?

You're right, I don't like the idea of drilling into the hull. :-) But that is what I told my wife I should probably do.........you confirmed it for me. Plus, that'll give me something to do tomorrow night after work......I mean other than iron my work clothes. That's the kind of info I was looking for.......thanks.

You know Clunn,Horton and Roland Martin, and others are gonna be at the Broken Arrow Bass Pro in February.

Yep. Buy the biggest you can get. I had HB 597ci HDDI.........I like it fine. When I decided to upgrade I started with HB......actually bought some HB networking cables. Then got to looking at the Lowrance units when I got some extra money from fantasy football. Ended up with 2 new Lowrance units......HDS 7 touch with structure scan and found an HDS 10 Gen1 for $999 at BP. They network and share the structure scan hardware and software. One of the nice features of the lowrance touch units is that you can minimize the on screen menu bar and that gives you just a little more usable screen space......the HB units have that menu bar strip along the side or bottom and you can't get rid of it.....as far as I know. Might check your local BP.......mine still has 2 HDS 8 gen 1 for $899 each......I think I would prefer the Gen 2 if I was only gonna get one unit....... But if you can find a Gen 1 on clearance like I did.....then add a Gen 2 or touch with structure scan the Gen 1 can use it also. Just depends on how much you can or want to spend. I would suggest trying to determine which units you like...... And plan for expansion so you will have what you want down the road. Good luck.

Finally got my 2 new fish finders and trolling motor installed. Could not spend the $25 for trolling motor mount transducer clamp......made my own using the existing hardware plus $1.98 hose clamp and rubber lamp bottoms. Do I need to do something with the structure scan wire under the step? I have it secured running up the transom.

Hey! Finally in the double digits until the trip!

Mike... I thought you might have slipped out to a lake today.......sure was nice, eh? Thanks again for all of your help yesterday. Wayne..got ya. Clean it up and use slow curing epoxy. I'll watch 'em at bass pro/tracker. I'll let y'all know how it comes out. Appreciate your help.

SNAP! Shame on you. ;-)

The old one popped off easily. Could not wait.......went to the BP and bought the thru the hull transducer. Will return to BP tomorrow and get epoxy from tracker. I gots to get it done!

Yes sir....shoot thru........NOT a thru hull. After chipping and removing old transducer........just epoxy new one in the impression left by the old one or do I need to remove all of old epoxy. Thanks for the direction and help.

Here is where I ended up installing the sidescan....above the drain. I still have to secure cable and adjust the transducer. Still weighing the 2d transducer...I know you said thru the hull....but a couple of things.... There are already 2 transducers in the hull. 1 is for my in dash sonar pinger. The other is an old one and previous owners cut the cable. Not sure there is enough room to mount another in hull and get good results....had my old humminbird transducer mounted on the transom with no problems....thinking about mounting on transom (right side just left of tie down strap.) I want it right but not sure it will go in hull? EDIT ordered transducer for thru the hull......see a good place to mount it?

Which would be the best place for the sidescan transducer? under the step (image 1) or above the step to the right side (image 2)

By above the hull bottom, you mean I can mount it higher in the darker (metal flake) area?

Where is the best location for these two transducers? The manual says they SHOULD be less than 1 foot of one another. The first pic is where I think I will put them unless I get feedback that indicates otherwise. (I know they are not exactly where they need to be....just showing generally where they will be) The other pics are just images of the transom area I want to mount them. 1st 2nd 3rd 4th

Going to mount fish finders tomorrow. Question: should I drill a hole for the bow fish finder cables through the fiberglass or through the metal plate That has a couple of switches and trolling motor Electrical receptacle? Going to cover the hole with a clam shell cover.