kschultz76

I don’t have really many rods left in the $150 price point. If I were shopping at that price point though the new Daiwa Tatula rods just released with cork handles would be high on the list. I’d also be eyeing the Ikos rods as you are. St. Croix Mojo are a good value in your price point to with solid reviews. The new Powell Endurance look nice at the price point too.

Sorry for your troubles, certainly call Dobyns. I recently got two Sierra spinning rods and had similar fitment issue with the locking nut. While some reels may be worse the next others I do think they just cut the threads too short on the reel seat to accommodate all sizes of spinning reel foot. I can can get them right enough that it won’t be an issue, but would like it to fit better. If you’re worried about the screw loosening back it all the way off and put a wrap of Teflon tape around the threads then tighten it down.

Also in the spinning camp here. Generally my go to rod has been a St Croix Legend Extreme (recoil guides) M/XF spinning with a Stradic CI4+. Last year I started using my Megabass Destroyer Addermine as well which also worked well. This year will be testing out a Kistler H3 LightMH Fast spinning rod for them too. Ive tried them on casting gear, and agree with all the above on the slack line challenges. However around heavier cover I think there’s an argument for a casting rod and heavier line, but it becomes less of a finesse approach at that point. In these situations I’ve used my LTB M/XF casting and my Kistler H3 LightMH Fast casting rods.

Another brand that is more affordable with more mod fast tapers is Hammer Rods. They’ve been dinged for their build quality/quality control though. I have their 7’3” MF/ModFast micro guide rod with Winn grips. Great for all kinds of treble and reaction baits. For single hooks I’d move up to the heavy and have it on good authority it’s still got that deeper mod fast flex even though they rate it a fast. They recently came out with a new series with cork grips that look nice. Build quality aside their blanks are nice and have great feel for the price point. Only quality issue with the rod I have is the epoxy work on the guides is a bit heavy and sloppy.

The Gen 1 MB Orochi XX Diablo Spec R comes to mind. I wouldn’t call it moderate, but the action is on the slower end of fast, but crisp and responsive with a strong backbone. I can throw everything on that rod from trigged creature baits to swim jigs to lipless to square bills and I have. If you like rods of that action JDM offerings would be to your liking. The Kislter KLX Crank Rip Twitch rods in MedHeavy MedFast come to mind as well. Also the Kistler H3 Light MedHeavy Fast I think you’d like too.

There’s lots of high end expensive rods that are light and parabolic. There are also lots of cheap rods that are pool cues. Really I have no objection to folks who set a budget for their gear and stick to it, lots of great rods that are more then adequate in the $150price range. Maybe you experienced this in a high end rod you tried, but it’s a broad generalization that just isn’t true. Id like to hear more from folks on the Spiralite Rods too, they look really interesting to me too.

I believe the DC reels are all magnetic brakes. The DC module is able to mag force the very quickly during the cast to control spool speed constantly.

Flipping and pitching are specific techniques of presenting your lure in close quarters to pinpoint targets. Your flip and pitch with really any rod even spinning gear. It is often done with jigs or trigged creature baits. The big big difference in what are advertised as flipping sticks is their power and length, those rods are typically designed to hold up to heavy weights presented in thicker heavier cover then general jig n worm rods. I do do most of my pitching with MH and Heavy powered rods, heaviest I own is a gen 1 MB Orochi Perfect Pitch. Kinda like the difference between a .30-06 and a Barrett 50 cal.

Lightening rod. (As inspired by Ben Franklin)

This would really be dictated by where and what kind of cover you fish, which would dictate what presentations you fish. With no more info for a third rod I’d keep it versatile with something between a Med-Med heavy power and a medium fast action.

Dont second guess this, that’s a hell of a deal and the IMX Pro line has gotten good reviews by users here and elsewhere. Get some U40 cork sealer on them, then get out and fish the crap out of them. Differences between those IMX Pros and some of the other models you listed are going to be marginal to nonexistent. Will an NRX be more sensitive? Maybe, but build quality will likely be crap and you’re gonna spend 4x as much. The IMX should be plenty sensitive and between those two rods you’ve got the techniques you mentioned covered.

Way under your budget a Fuego CT. A bit better and in your budget any Tatula CT variant.

Thanks Mike! I almost ordered Flex Coat but the ProKote was gonna ship faster. For the $40 Mudhole wants for a power rod dryer may just order. Likely not the last time I’m going to bust a guide. Should learn how to repair em.

Thanks for the advice shared so far. One last question - can I pull this off by letting the epoxy set for 10-15 min after mixing then turning the rod 180 degree by hand every few min for the first couple hours since I’m doing light coat? Or do I really need a rod dryer to do this right?

Thanks that’s what I figured I needed to do. No no need to prep it anyway? Just carefully recoat the entire wrap in a couple light coats 24hrs apart?

So doing something dumb in the garage I managed to bend the stripper guide on a spinning rod down a good bit. I was able to carefully while supporting it bend it back into position without over flexing it. However the epoxy around it cracked a bit and there’s now a gap between the back of the guide and the epoxy between it and the rod. Pictures below. Im worried that over time and use and flex the epoxy will crack further and break out. Should I carefully brush on a layer or two thread finishing epoxyon those cracks and behind the guide? Also don’t want water getting in there. Or should I just leave it alone? If I do try to fill and secure the cracks do I need to scuff existing epoxy up with sand paper or gently open the crack with a razor blade? I ordered some small brushes and 2oz of ProKote Med build thread finish just in case. Thanks in advance for any advice offered, and please laugh quietly!

You can get a Daiwa Tatula LT 2500 from American Legacy eBay store for $136shipped right now. Don’t know the specs on or any experience with that Gander Mtn rod, but assuming if it’s ML F it’s got your dropshot really light stuff covered. Now get a M/F spinning for things like weightless senkos, shakeyheads, wacky rigs, etc. Usual suspects are St Croix Avid, Avid X or LTB in your price range. I’d also suggest looking at a Kistler Helium 3, or wait and see what the new Megabass Levante lineup looks like. And the new Daiwa Tatula rods look good, and read many positive things about the Daiwa Tatula Elite spinning rod options as well.

If they’re in excellent condition that’s a great buy. I’m very happy with my Chronarch CI4s, mine have all been professionally serviced and super tuned which really made them shine. My Chronarch MGL is also excellent but I actually found my original CI4s easier to dial in the brakes.

If you search my prior posts you’ll find a thread where this was discussed That said American Legacy has the Zillion TW SVs on sale on their website for $230, just for an email from them today advertising it. At that price they’re definitely worth it.

Their listing for the 2000 size was $149, but the 2500 is $136. If you can’t find I can send you a link.

Guys just wanted to share that I just got a great deal on 2 Tatula LT 2500D-XH spinning reels from American Legacy from their eBay store. $136 each, free shipping. Listing is still up if anyone is in need of one. Theyre gonna go on 2 new spinning rods we got for my wife. Heck Im debating picking up a third to get something lighter weight for one of my rods.

Before it ships give them a call and see if they still have the 7’0” or 7’3” Light Medium Heavy Fast available, they’re rated 3/16-7/8 oz, and are not as fast as the MH/XF. Would be better suited for your stated purpose. They recently updated the the website and that model went missing. But I literally just order a 6’8” LMH/F spinning rod for my wife 2 weeks ago before they update did the website.

Kistler Helium 3 7’0” Light MH/F. Really fantastic rod.

The SC Mojo Yak Rods are essentially a Mojo Bass rod with very short handles and Winn grips. To me honestly they seem pretty gimmicky. Maybe it’s bc of the size of my kayak but I don’t a shorter handle helpin me in anyway.

Besides the ones mentioned, Falcon makes several and Kistler has a couple Mod fast in the KLX line. Hammer Rods has a few too. If you can find a gen 1 Megabass Orochi XX Dropshot Rod it was a Mod fast taper as well. Theres not not a ton of the, but there’s a few out there.