BKeith

gas powered generators normally put out a sign wave, since the voltage is being created from a rotating source. Inverters tend to put out square wave since they are using an oscillator circuit that's just cutting on and off. Some of the better inverters do us filters and capacitors to round the edges and shape it to closely resemble a signwave but the only way you can tell is put an O-Scope on it and look at it. Yamaha makes a nice little gas generator that's very quite and not as much as the Honda, but it's not cheap. I know Harbor Freight and Northern Tools sell those cheap, chinese things but you couldn't melt one of those things and pour it on me, I would not have one. I have a Yamaha 1KW and a Honda 2KW I use when I go for several days.

Those ceramic resistors would be too small of a wattage, you would burn it out before you got going. The PWM should be just the trick. I didn't know anyone still made something like that. That's all that old maximizer was. They just made it big enough it didn't need a fan. I doubt your TM would pull more than 30 amps. If it does, just don't run it on max. The old maximizer would trip itsefl out if you over loaded it, and then reset after it cooled, that PWM will probably do the same. If your motor does pull more than 30 amps, It would only be a problem if you were on max, so all you have to do is back off the speed control a couple of degrees and just run about 90% power.

Yes, if you can find you one of the old MinnKota maximizers that still works, they provide infinite control and makes the battery last a lot longer at the speeds you are talking about. These things were made back in the 80's but you still see one show up on ebay and different places. I have one that's totally useless to me, but I still keep it around, it don't eat and I don't have to pay taxes on it, so I've never seen a reason to get rid of it. There happens to be one on there now, but I think he's on dope for the price he's asking. The things only sold for about 1/2 that new. http://www.ebay.com/...34238699&crdt=0 One other thing, I think they are only rated for about 30 AMPS, but I think you should be in great shape for your motor. Something else you can probably do. Get you a 6 volt battery and try that while you are trolling at your slow speed for crappie. Might want to try before you buy but I think it will work just fine for you. The biggest problem is, about the only 6 volts you see around no are golf cart batteries and that sucker is going to be all kinds of heavy. Especially when you put it in there with the 12 volt battery (which you will still need if you want to go faster. Or, if you can find two small 6 volts, connect them in series and run across both when you want speed and just hook it across on when you want to go slow.

The following are approved fluids. Sea STar HA5430 qt, HA5440 gal Texaco H015 Shell Aero 4 Esso Univis N15 Chevron Aviation Fluid A Mobil Aero HFA Fluids meeting Mil Spec H5606 Dextron II may be used in an emergency. You will notice all of these are aviation hydraulic fluids. You can go to a lot of your local county airport that has a maintenance facility and buy a gallon for around $50. Most will have it as Mil Spec H5606 but you might find one that has it in one of those brand names. If you want to get all the free play out, bleeding is almost a must. One word of advise that will save you a bunch of money and fluid. Get a three foot piece of 3/8" rubber vaccum line or clear tubing and a clean quart bottle. Slide the hose over the bleeder and let it drain into the bottle. Move the hose to the other side when you get ready to do that side or place hoses with bottles over both bleeders and just lossen the bleeder you need. Unless they have dropped the price, I think you will find you can buy a gallon of H5606 for about what you can buy two quarts of Sea Star. If it's low enough to be causing free play, you will probably need at least two quarts to fill the system and give you enough to work with while bleeding the system. I've used the Mil Spec H5606 for years, it's the same stuff as Sea Star's just not quite as expensive and usually easier to find by the gallon. The easy way to make your own filler system is get a 3/8" barb fitting to screw in the plug, I can't remember if that 1/4" or 3/8" fpt in the filler plug. Then get you a quart bottle like a gear oil bottle, or of some sort that has one of the tappered fittings for sticking in a hole. Cut the bottom out of that bottle place a short piece of hose on the barb and the tappered cap, and have someone hold it and keep fluid in it while you do the bleeding. That's a lot cheaper than their kit.

The bigger prop will come closer to slowing you down instead of giving you more speed. It would also make the boat much harder to come out of the hole. I don't know anything about the hull you have. Some hulls are just flat not built for speed and hit a wall at a certain speed. With those, you could double the horse power and my not gain five mph. The reason I say that, in most cases the best way to get more speed is through your setup. Adding a jackplate for more offset will let you dial in the offset and engine height. Then going to a high rake, stainless steel prop with the right offset and engine height can sometimes gain you an easy five to eight mph. However, different hulls respond differently. You could easily pay close to $1,000 for a good prop and installing a jackplate and not gain three mph. There is an old saying with most anything that moves, how fast you wanna go depends on how much you wanna spend.

Running on high with a big 24 volt tm for up to 45 minutes, just to get there, means you will be doing the same coming back. Then you are going to be running around after you get there for a while. Then you are gonna be praying the wind is not blowing that day. That is asking a hellava lot out of two batteries so you had better bite the bullet and get the Trojan SCS225's and you will be asking a lot out of the Trojan's. I think you are going to find most of those others are going to come up short. The Deka will give you just as good of a service life as the Trojan, but it's not going to give you the run time. Everybody here can preach about how good their $75 - $100 batteries are, but when you put one through what you are talking about, you are going to find out just how good they are not. I've dealt with them in commercial, material handling equipment for years, and the Trojans will deliver and will last a long time doing it if properly maintained. If all batteries were equal, they would all be about the same price. High quality batteries are high priced because they cost more to make, not because the dealer just sells them for more. Also, I put the 60" shaft on mine so I could get the 36 volt system. The only time it's a bother is when fishing real shallow water and I have to raise the head up about three feet. It does get in the way on some cast, but you learn to work around it. Also, you can install a third TM battery as a cranking battery and use it as part of the three bank, 36 volt system. Understand, all batteries should be the same type, size and age in a series system or you will have battery problems. If your motor is a DFI motor, that's playing with a double edge sword though, they take a lot of cranking amps and a partially discharged deep cycle battery may not be able to deliver them. Hooking jumper cables to start the motor is not a very smart option either. That's a very good way to blow an ECM.

Trojan SCS225 or Deka. I get Deka's whole sale so my first choise is always Deka, and they are excellent batteries. If it wasn't for the price I can get Deka's for, it would be the Trojan. Those are about the best two batteries made. Granted now, everybody is going to have their own favorite. After all, that's why Baskin Robin's has 31 different flavors of ice cream.

A couple of words of advise. As a minimun, DO A COMPRESSION CHECK ON THE MOTOR!!! there should be no more than five pounds difference between the four cylinders. Take a couple of 3/4" wrenches and try to tighten the bolts holding the motor on the boat. If they tighten and pull start pulling down into the transome, walk away from it. Get in it and walk around on the floor, if it's soft and gives way in places, again, walk away Take a large screw driver and take the bottom plug out of the lower unit, let and little oil drain an make sure it's black and no drops of water come out first. Turn the steering wheel from stop to stop and make sure it turns easily. Steering cables are expensive and a pain to replace Take it to the lake and test drive it. No test drive, no buy. If you buy it, replace the water pump impeller and change the lube in the lower unit, and pack the wheel bearing on the trailer the very first thing On boat #1, see how much the guy is willing to pay you to dispose of it for him. You couldn't give me that piece of crap.

Are you holding the primer while cranking it? if not, you should. Are you sure the primer solenoid is holding while you are cranking? Sometimes a weak battery will crank the motor over, but pulls down so much the solenoid does not hold. As for the primer bulb staying hard, that's not going to happen, as soon as you hit the primer, any pressure in the system will be released. One way to test the primer is pump the bulb up until firm, hold some pressure on the bulb and have someone turn the key switch on and press the primer and the pressure should release. You can put too much pressure on the bulb and still be able to squeeze it because you will push the needles off the seats. (by the way, it's a Primer, not a Choke, an it only primes the engine while the engine is cranking over) Now, you can have someone hold the key in to prime the engine (with the switch on) and squeeze the bulb several times while holding it and it should start just fine. If the pressure is not releasing when the key is pressed, then there's a problem, and you are not activating the primer solenoid or it's not releasing fuel into the engine. Another thing you can try is pump the bulb as usual before cranking, turn the key on, press and release the primer, only crank the motor a couple of seconds and quit, press and release the primer again,crank it again a couple of seconds. Do this a few times and then try to start it. This will get around the primer dropping out when the battery is dropping too low and letting the primer drop out. It works by the basic principle, it has to get fuel into the engine when the key is pressed in. It has to have fuel pressure to release fuel in the engine. The engine only has fuel pressure when you are either squeezing the primer bulb or the engine is cranking over.

Jet drives and shallow water don't go well together. That's why you don't see them on swamp boats. Grass and debris is going to plug the intake and dirt/sandy bottoms is going to eat the drive screw and housing up very quickly. A lot of people think they are shallow water motors, they really are not, they are for waters that have a lot of obstructions just below the surface like limbs and rocks. Get them less than a couple of feet from the bottom and you have what you are getting now.

If it will shift into forward and hold when you push the handle all the way forward. Install a Hot Foot and take the throttle cable off the remote box. A lot of times you can find used Hot Foots for $50 or so.

You might want to give these a call. http://www.johnscustommarine.net/ If you happen to get Al, there is nothing that man don't know about OMC's and he used to have a lot of used parts

http://www.go2marine.com/product/157153F/single-lever-side-mount-control-b89-b90.html http://www.ebay.com/...0-/200567260355 Here's a new one, but you need to make sure what will interchange with yours. I'm pretty sure most any remote will operate the shifter and throttle, but the wiring harness connectors change about 96, Johns, custom marine in California might have one. The Stokers carry a lot of used parts for them.

You would have to spend about $30 on a Clymer manual or about the same thing to have a dealer order you the factory service manual. There are several key points that all should match up when everything is properly adjusted on the engine. You will a manual to see know how to check them.

When I put 31's in my Javelin, I had to make a tray. I made a stainless tray that held both because I didn't want to use two trays. However, if you want one real, real bad, try here http://www.ebay.com/...Mount &_sacat=0 This one mounts them end to end, so not sure that's going to work for you either

See how your luck is. Some of the cable ends are removable and you can cut a little off the cable and put it back on. Look at the cable end and right behind the eyelet on the end you will see the piece that goes through it about 1/4" in diameter and fastens the cable into it. Look at that piece if it's just a smooth, round stainless looking pin then sorry nothing you can do. If it looks like it has small hex head screws or small set screws in the center, then you can loosen them and take the off. My concern is there's something else out of adjustment. I've been messing with these things a lonnnnggggggg time and I've never seen one just stretch. You just can't put enough pressure on it with the shifter to stretch it. Every time I've come across one that ran out of adjustment, the throttle and shift linkage on the engine was mal adjusted or something in the control head was wrong.

If the prop is turning, it may not be ingaging the the gear inside the lower unit. Put it on a hose, crank it up, shift into gear and cut it off while in gear and then see if the prop turns, it should not turn now. If you don't want to mess with the muffs and all, take the cover off and spin the flywheel about one turn clockwise while in gear, and then see if it turns. By the way, shift cables don't stretch. Or should I say there is no way under the sun you are ever going to put enough pressure on one with the shifter handle to stretch a shift cable or throttle cable. If you have some doubt about the cable, you can disconnect it and shift if by hand and see how it does and if the cable is making enough travel to fully engage it. One word of caution, when dealing with mechanics, and they realize you are mechanically inept, they can lay all kinds of things out there that's wrong with you motor/boat to sock you with a big bill, when many times it's not a problem or it's a simple adjustment they are not telling you about. Now, I'm not saying all mechanics are crooks, there are some good, and honest ones, but they fall into the same catagory as finding an honest lawyer.

Depends on the motor. If you put a merc in forward, the prop won't spin in one direction by hand but will spin in the other direction and it will me making a clicking noise when it does. It's designed that way so when you back off the gas, it does not spin the motor. If you notice, when you back of the throttle quickly with a merc, you will hear a real fast clicking noise coming from the motor. If it's a Johnson/Evinrude, it will not spin in either direction when in gear. If you back off the throttle real fast on a JohnnyRude, you will hear it through the carbs and get what's called a decel knock, kinda like a car spark knocking.

The trolling motor will run on max a hellavalot longer than the batteries in the boat are going to last. You give me the impression this is a 12 volt TM. On a very good, fully charged group 29 battery that's 120 Amp hour, about the most you are going to get out of the battery with the TM on high is a little over 1 hr to 1 1/2 hours max. Running a smaller battery like a group 27 is going to cut that time back even more, and if running a group 24, you may probably won't get an hour. Remember, I said a like new, fully charged battery, not one you've been abusing for a while or have already run the TM a lot before that. The maximizer circuit greatly extends run time when using the TM on the slower speed settings, as you increase the TM speed, it becomes less efficient, up to the point it's on high and then it's basically doing nothing to help increase run time. As for the bent prop shaft on the motor, take the prop off, put a steel nut on it, turn the shaft so the bend is facing up and give it a firm tap with a hammer to bend it back down some. Spin the shaft and see how much it wobbles. Keep doing this until most, or all the wobbles is gone. After a few licks with the hammer you will get a feel for how hard you have to hit it to bend it back a little at the time. I've done a dozen of them over the years, and stuch the whole TM in the fork of a tree to straighten the vertical shaft a number of times. It the TM just suddenly stoped like you turned the switch off, I will bet you tripped the circuit breaker. That TM needs a 50 amp breaker to run it very long on high. If you start connecting your cranking battery in parallel with the TM battery, you are asking for trouble. You will not be a happy fisherman the first time you are back in the middle of nowhere and go to start the motor, just to find you've run the battery down to far for it to crank the motor over.

If soldering the clips on doesn't solve the problem, take the clips off and solder eyelets on the cables so you can put them on the batteries studs, use stainless nuts on the studs and a wrench to snug them down. I've had lots of problems clips not having enough contact area on the post and over heat. My standard practice now is if I get a TM that has clips, I cut them off and solder eyelets on before I even use it the first time. Clips usually cause more problems than they are worth.

If it was me, I would start checking voltages with a voltmeter first and see where you are dropping voltages. First, connect the volt meter across the two cables connected to the battery, (do not touch the post) and see if the voltage drops when everything is turned on. If voltage drops, go across the two post and see if it still drops. If it still drops when across the two post, the battery is bad, if it holds a good voltage, one of the two connections are bad on the battery. If the voltage holds good when connecting across the two cables, leave the negative test lead connected to the battery and start checking the voltage at different points from the positive post to where the sonar is connected. Check the output of the A/B switch, the power switch, the fuse's/circuit breaker etc. Go on each side of every place the wire makes an connection until you find where you are dropping the voltage. Find the point of the voltage drop and you find your problem.

Well, talking about square stern canoe's, I guess somebody got a good deal on a 17' footer and a 12' jon. My brother called me tonight and asked if I got mine, which I hadn't. He went down to the pond that I've been leaving at it at to fish some, and the canoe was gone. He goes to the other two ponds where the jon boat stays and it was gone. He called me to see if I had gotten them. Both were on our land that's completely finced and a long way from the property line so we figure it had to be someone that knew they were there. The pisser of it, for the price scrap aluminum is getting, I wouldn't be suprised if they didn't get them just to sell for scrape

Better get you a seal and bearing kit. If that water has been in there very long your bearings and races will probably be pitted or discolored You say you just installed that axle, when you take it apart, make sure you check the seal running surface on the axle. With this cheap axles we are being stuck with now, a lot of times that shoulder for the seal is welded on and you will find welding slag stuck to it so the seal is running on it. That will wipe out a seal up in just a couple of miles. You will definetly have to pull it apart and clean everything up to get the milky grease out, that's where water has gotten blended into it and it's gotta go.

If common if you just greased them, and over greased them. It will push the execess back out. If it just showed up and you didn't recently pump grease in them, you might want to pull them off, clean, inspect, pack and install new seals. If it was the outside, Bearing Buddies will make a mess all over the outside of the wheels if you over grease them or if you don't use the bras.

I think that's something you need to ask your state game warden or go on line to your states boat regulations and look it up. That's something that can vary from state to state. Unless someone from your state is on here and knows the answer.