mc6524

The rule of thumb I use is th two capacity of the vehicle needs to be close to two time the weight being towed. This way you'll get good performance when towing your boat in any hills.

Yes as stated earlier it's been done for a long time. You actually can use a variety of weighted terminal baits. One of my favorites is a shaky head. I just think the way you fish it matches the DS technique

I'm a paca chunk fisherman as well. They come in different sizes which I think is a plus.

I'm partial P-line fluroclear mist green or Yo-Zuri ultra soft. IMO it provides you with a high quality inexpenensive line that is softer, has less memory, and not much more stretch than fluro. I'd also suggest you go to using 10# test on your crank baits, they'll get deeper.

Tackle warehouse has it in clear and green

Just a couple things to share that may help. A common jig bite is one where the bass picks up the jig lightly and swims off with it. That's why watching you line I important. My guess is that you are rushing the hook set. The fish doesn't have it in his mouth so when you go to set the hook the jig is not far enough in the bass's mouth to get a true hook set.

Email me. I have a Lowrance LMS C-334 color fish finder/GPS you can have for next t nothing.

The challenge is how pure it is. You can purchase lead fairly cheap at Rotometals.

Actually the color red disappears at 15 foot depth. Orange is the next color at 25 feet. It does not matter whether its fishing line or hooks.

Remember, the color red disappears at depths of 6-8 feet. If that's the case, then the color red should have no impact.

You really have no way of comparing them. A couple of things to consider is to make sure you get hydrophobic lenses, and price is not always a good indicator. In my opinion you can get a good pair by not spending more than $80-$100.

Lowrance should take a standard size SD card.

Also the medium moderat action makes a great jerk bait rod

Certainly, a cranking rod makes sense, but I would suggest medium moderate action as being a little more sensitive for crank baits. Summertime is here, so deep cranking is in order, but for year round cranking I'd start with a medium. You're also missing a finese rod unless you have spinning gear.

I've used Mud Hole before and was very happy with all of their products. Thier MHX blands aren't G-Loomis, but they aren't advertised to be. Since you want to do this to learn, I would suggest you don't spend a lot of money and give it a try.

You should have no problems with your bat being aluminum. As long as you have a separate battery for your trolling system, 12 volt for your main boat peer is fine.

Is suggest a Johney Morris. The duel breaking system is outstanding, and I've owned everything from a Diawa Zillion, a currado, and Abu Garcia and I only fish with my 12 Johnny morris's and my Zillions

I understand and agree. I was just focusing on ther being a lot of misinformation about fishing lines. It does boil down to preference. I've had excellent success with yo-Zurich and P-line though I think P-line has a little more memory.

Actually the research shows that fluro isn't completely invisible under water. It is close but the larger the diameter of the line the more visible it becomes. Fluro actually has more stretch than they wnt you to believe; therefore, my choice is a flurocoated line and I rarely fish anything greater than 12 lb test because of the diameter. So, IMO if I'm going to pay a similar price for mono than a fluro coated line, why buy mono. Mono absorbs water, is effected by UV light, and in many cases you have less knot strength. In addition, for every under surface technique except a jerk bait having a line that sinks gives you a better presentation. Speaking of presentation and reaction strikes, if I'm looking to get as close to natural presentation as I can get, even with a reaction stike, why would go with anything but fluro or a fluro coated line? I don't have to worry about water clarity at all.

With all do respect Koofy Smacker, there are less expensive flurocoated lines out there that makes sense to use for all applications except top water and jerk baits. To-Zurich and P-line fluroclear are two good examples. This becomes even more important when fishing clear water where diameter as well as invisibility in fishing lines becomes even more important.

I'll offer my two cents and recommend BPS PQ-10.

I have an older spinning reel and loved it. I then bought a newer one and it's not as smooth. IMO when it comes to bait cast reels, stay with the proven manufacturers and models. It gives you confidence that no matter what bait you're throwing you'll get the max distance and performance.

Remember that fluro is not totally invisible, so I find the smaller the better. I never us anything greater than 12 lb and usually 8 lb and even 6 lb in very clear water

I would suggest your reel speed is to high. You may think you're reeling it moderately, but if you're using a high speed reel the bait may be moving to fast.

The fat boy is a great bait. Shallow wide wobblr