mc6524

I agree. I prefer fluro over braid even though in my opinion it has more stretch than advertised. I want a the little shock absorbing effect I get with fluro than braid. To make up for ant difference in sensitivity I use tungsten weights with my plastics

I too peg mine but I peg it about an 1/8 inch up from the hook. This allows the bait to float free from the bottom and have a little more action

If you are having problems with line twists I would suggest any, or all of the following: 1. Make sure the spool is position correctly when putting line on your reel. This is particularly important with spinning reels 2. You can get a large phone book and have the line run through the middle of the phone book as you put it on you reel 3. Consider using a spray on line conditioner

When you tie the knot run the tag end down through the eye again. This will hold the hook out straight and prevent it from sliding around.

Actually, I've had success with using a jig as the wait. Flip it under a boat dock, and slowly drag the jig. It can be deadly.

With all do respect, I would give thought ot using mono for both topwaters and jerkbaits. You don't want a line that sinks in both applications. Fluro works fine for crankbaits, but when you want a suspending jerkbait to suspend you don't need a line that sinks. You should be fine.

For me it's too stiff. I too like P-line fluroclear, or Yozuri.

You can get a St. Croix Premier Medium Light action rod for about $100.00, or a Shimano Cucial drop shot rod for $10. You will find that the there is a good relationship between the quality and sensitivity of the rod and price. When drop shotting sensitivity is extremely important because you need to be able to feel the light bites.

It really boils down to practice, but I would also say the rod and reel make a lot of sense. I started out with the old Abu Garcia 5500 centrifugal clutch system years ago but I found that when I switched to a magnetic system it took some getting use to because I thought all reels, especially in my price range ($40.00 back then) were the same. I found out that investing in a good reel made it not only easier,but my casting distance and pitching distance dramatically increased. So, again my suggestion is practice a lot with what you have and get confident with it.

No it's not too light for jigs as long as you stay 1/4 oz or less.

I would suggest that you first put on 12# test as a backing, then using a blood knot attach the 8# and put on the 100 yds of the FC that that package has. This way the reel is fully spooled and you don't waste any line.

In my opinion its a matter of how you are going to use your maps. For example, I have navionics on my HDS on my console because it provides me shaded depth contours which help me navigate the lake a high speed. I have fishing hotspots on my bow because it provides me more detail and information regarding cover etc.

Ditto, always cranking battery

I'd get a Shimano crucial. IMO the Veritas is too brittle. St. Croix is a great rod, but I'd stick with the Avid...

Actually, you can get an excellent baitcaster for around $100. You can also get a very good spinning real with up to 10 bearing for $60-$80.

I agree, I would isolate two of the batteries for the trolling motor only, and use the third battery to start and power the boat electronics. I too agree that it sounds like a battery problem, and by isolating the trolling motor from the rest of the boat you can identify that for sure is you run out of power. Your trolling motor really should give you a full day of fishing wind or no wind. If not, I'd again look at the batteries, or how you are using your trolling motor. For example, do you run on high speed to change fishing locations on the lake instead of using your main motor? Just a thought

Since they do fit in the catagory of a crankbait, I use my 6'6" Medium Moderate action. I find that a lot of my lipless crankbait fish are not always hooked good, so the forgiveness of the moderate action I think really helps here.

It's actually called the mule rig and yes you can place a bead above the swivel of the second fluke. The key is the line length

I would suggest Stren Flurocast

I like to define finesse fishing as: A slow more natural presentation targeting the more finicky bass in a found area to fish it out when the bite stops or to entice a hunger bite in colder water. Generally as stated above using 10 lb line or less, with spinning reel or baitcaster. There are quite a few 'finesse" baitcasters hitting the market so more anglers seem to be using them. In this instance as outlined smaller bait, light weight, and slower presentation would be in order. The key is to get finicky bass to bite as opposed to active feeding bass to bite. So drop shot, shakey head, etc., finesse worms, and senkos are my favorite.

The challenge is having two people fish out of a 10 foot boat, but more importantly the size of the lake you're fishing. I use to fish tourney's out of a 16" Deep V with a 60 HP motor. It worked fine on the small local lakes, but it was tough fishing the bigger lakes. Why do you ask? Gas, your limited where you can fish from the bast-off if you only have 10-12 gal.....

X 3. You cannot go wrong with the Avid Medium Fast.

I agree. I have the medium and medium heavy. They're great. I don't think you'd go wrong.

I use a 6' Medium G2. It really makes working the bait a lot easier

It may sound silly but I like a Zoom fat boy single tail grub with the tale dipped in either chartreuse or red.