78Staff

Well unfortunately this one falls into the junk category... so it's going back. It's not an exact copy, it's smaller, the bottom brackets are flimsy, and the metal is thinner. I mean, it would probably work but I think I going to just pony up for another KastKing instead..

Yeah I've read posts where folks tape them up, paint over the logo, etc... I choose an easier solution:).

This was a great deal, I picked up one with the coupon but wish I had bought several. Right now you can get one for $59 with the PLAYFUL15 coupon, but I picked this one up from Amazon instead, appears to be same for $46. Worst case it's Prime so I can return if it's junk. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CJ5ZCZ5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&pldnSite=1

Well I figured I would try them... so I ordered 6. Odd thing is, I got the buy 1 get 50 off so they were 14.99 instead of 19.99, but then I also got the 20% off of that when I checked out, it worked out to about $12 each. So maybe you don't need the email link/coupon for the 20% deal...

I saw that as well, almost ordered some but stock is low... Even with the Buy 1/50% deal at Dicks inflated price it comes down to typical online prices anyway ie TW, Monster, etc so just decided to wait. That and haven't wrapped my head around spending $15 for a jig lol.

I put Steez 90mm (Steez 100 model) handles from TT on both my SV105's... you could also go with the Tatula or Zillion handle for a bit less as well. I just prefer the Steez size knobs over the tat/paddle style plus it has 4bb already

I bought several PXL-R's from TW, all have clicking drag stars, which is expected based on the specs. Now, if you do a search on PXR's on the various boards you will find some older threads about how to add a clicking drag star to a PXR, so maybe the older models did not have the clicking feature, and you got an older model? Just a guess... Tackletrap even sells a kit... http://tackletrap.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=898_660_816 Now, I would like to have a clicking tension knob - I knew it didn't have one, but it would be nice if it could be added with minimal fuss - anyone know?

good info, thanks, I'll forego spool/plate bearing and just pick up some worm shaft & knob bearings then

yeah I think I am just going to look at T3 1016's... if for some reason it doesn't work out I will just look at moving to a Zillion ot Tatula or something for Punching. Mostly river fish anyway, docks and laydowns. Punching not a big part of my arsenal at the moment now that I think on it some . Probably get some worm shaft bearings as well and upgrade those - the stock 1016 spool/sideplate bearing are already good stuff and don't warrant replacing, yes? One thing I liked about the Lews TP is that the bearings were solid out of the factory, so no upgrade was really necessary. Thanks, Mark

Thinking about picking up a few, initially was just going to grab a couple T3's, but have been thinking about a T3B or two as well maybe for frogging, punching, etc... common sense says get the T3 1016 at $215, if it can handle those presentations. Anyone frogging/punching/jigging with the T3 1016 - how does it hold up? Could always get the aluminium framed Tatula for these presentations as well I suppose.

Hope so, I sure "explained" the correct way to ship a rod to them, several times Could just be a different shipping warehouse, however.

I ordered the ToadSkinz about 2 years ago from Cabelas but returned them. First of all, they had so much static electricity built up into them it was crazy. but mainly, b/c the bibs were ill porportioned. They were very short waisted but had very longs legs. It was just a bad fit, at least in the 2XL size. Right now I just have some Marmot Precip gear, works well enough for Florida flash storms, but probably not for sustained all day rain. Have been looking at the Bone Dry series, I think it's called? Being in Fl the heavy GuideWear/100MPH/Simms suits are a bit overkill for temperature rating, so need something lighter.

Best way is just to brush on with an acid/flux style brush I take it? Getting ready to do this to a few new rods, but have never applied it before. I saw one video with a guy applying on using a rod blank spinning/lathe type device, but I don't have anything like that, just going to brush it on by hand.

Just a heads up on walmart rod purchases - I actually just went through this about a month ago, and if you look at some of the reviews it appears to be a common problem. They don't have any decent way of shipping rods. IE, they don't have tubes like TW, BTD, etc use. They actually take two 6x6x40 boxes, tape them them together, and ship the rod in that. They also use no packaging of any kind, they just toss the rod in the box loose and ship it that way. I bought one rod - 1st one arrived with a broken guide. They sent a second one, it actually had poked through the end of the box and the tip guide was missing. The third one came and while the guides survived the blank was all scratched up. I returned all three and just got a refund. IMO it's just not worth the hassle to save a few dollars. If anything, try to have it shipped to store instead of your home. Maybe they have a better way of shipping it internally. At least you could inspect it when picking it up and refuse it if necessary.

I just posted this in another thread, but would start at the Tournament or Tournament MG level at a minimum, due to gaining the 14lb drag over the lower end models. But they are all solid choices, imo.

Pretty much have converted completely over to Lews... formerly a Zillion and Chronach user...both nice reels, but Zillions are heavy and very expensive now, the Chronarch's just didn't feel right to me with the handle slop common to a lot of Shimano models. Not saying anything bad again both very good options. But, I've switch over completely, right now I think I have 5 Tournament Pro's, and 3 BB1's, and will pick up a Super Duty when the LH model comes out in the fall. The lower Lews models are solid and a good price point, but I think I would start with the Tournament or Tournament MG line at a minimum to get the 14lb drag. The lower tier options are 10lb. I hear fantastic things about the upper end Team series, but since they are RH only at this point I have not had a chance to try them.

I paid for the season pass or whatever for the first season, but not the 2nd one. Hard to commit to watching a 3 hour bit on a PC. IF we could download, and then for instance stream via PC or PS3 or media player to TV, then that would be great. But restricted to PC/Laptop only I really didn't use the pass much, just watched the TV shows instead.

That's certainly unexpected. Regardless, I decided on a Dobyns Glass rod instead. I'm sure there are some decent bps crankin sticks out there, just maybe not at the Macon store

I've been researching cranking rods (for deep cranking) the past few weeks, and unfortunately the only telescopic model I recall is the BPS stick. Not saying there isn't another one, but there are relatively few TRUE deep cranking rods with split grips and micros to begin with, telescopic or not. That being said, pretty much everyone will agree, that for the money (esp when found on sale) the crankin stick is a decent rod. But, it's not glass, not a split grip, and not micro guide'd , so you will need to make a few decisions on what is more important to you. The Denali Jadewood J903CB is supposed to be a sweet DD22 rod, and is 7-6, split/micro's. It was on my short list, along with looking at the BPS, the W&M Skeet/Clunn models, the Tour KVD (also micros), and the SC Mojo Big Cranker. But I decided to go with a Dobyns 765CB Glass in the end.

No, to be honest, 5 of 5 with abraded guides was pretty much a telltale sign to look for another rod. Not sure handling on the floor could cause the roughness on the guides? But anyway I'm looking at a Denali, or Lews, or maybe a Mojo or W&M RC...something along those lines.

was just as the Macon store, was going to pick up a cheap cranking stick for some deep divers, they had 5 of the 7-6 models, and every one of them had at least one guide that was rough. I was really disappointed. I realize it's a cheaper rod, which is why I was looking at one b/c I rarely throw the deep stuff and didn't want to drop a lot of money on the rig, but I guess I am going to have to spend a little more .

was just as the Macon store, was going to pick up a cheap Crankin Stick for some deep divers, they had 5 of the 7-6 MH models, and every one of them had at least one guide that was rough. I was really disappointed. I realize it's a cheaper rod, which is why I was looking at one b/c I rarely throw the deep stuff and didn't want to drop a lot of money on the rig, but I guess I am going to have to spend a little more . I posted on this last year and it basically came down to the Crankin Stick, Clunn, and the Vertias winch, or spend more money (assuming you want a longer rod).. otherwise in the 7ft range the Diesel, the Mojo, or the Powell Endurance (which were on sale at the time) all got good reviews as well.

Your Veritas 7-6 MH is the Winch series, or the standard?

I'm leaning that way, either the 7-6 or the 7-10 MH. I also looked at W&M Rick Clunn S Glass similar price but see some complaints about weight and QC on the W&M models... So no issues with the 7-6 for throwing big cranks, 20ft'er and such?

Tempted to pick one of these up, looking for a deep cranking rod to throw BN22's, Manns D20, etc probably useful for big chunky spinnners too. Just surprised they are Fast/XFast though, and no Heavy's. I guess I'd be looking at the 7-6 or 7-10 model...